Solenoid buzzes,clicking,but no start

[KyleEBK]

Ok I was having issues with a draw last week which i never solved b
The car sat for a week with no battery connected and i hookd up a battery, and my other car with jumper cables and went to start it and only got a loud buzzing sound from the solenoid and the tachometer going up to 1300rpm

So i replaced the solenoid (12.99) and now the buzzing is louder and more aggressive from the solenoid but it is still not start

I also get a clicking from the passenger side fenderwall when starting

Theres a voltage regulator on the vehicle near the solenoid and it stinks after trying to start it (like buring electricals)

anyone have an idea what i should do? or what this could be? I looked at the crank no start checklist but thats not my language

 

[mustangfan1990]

sounds like your starter is bad

 

[KyleEBK]

Should i try putting ascrew driver accross large terminals on solenoid see if it starts? or what i dunno

 

[mustangfan1990]

yeah you can try that. If the solnoid is new then you can try that and the motor should atleast turn over. If it doesnt check your connections on you solnoid and make sure you dont have any burnt fuseable links and make sure your connections are clean

 

[jrichker]

No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order. The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds.

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.

Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss &Stang&2birds

See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars
See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars.
See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.

Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang

Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or upgraded high torque mini starter.

 

[KyleEBK]

Ok ive been out in the morning trying to find my issues

I have found a drain that ahs gotten worse?? im getting a 4 amp drain off a red(orange maybe) with light blue strip on it that goes into the alternator(this mean alternator bad?) in a previous post i was looking for a drain and i unhooked only the positive large cable that goes to the alternator, this is a smaller wire leading into an input in the alternator this is the same wire i suspected was my drain in the previous posting

now i tried to start the car by jumpin the solenoid but i get nothing but clicking

however when i try to start the car with the key the solenoid makes buzzing noise and theres clickin sound but no cranking at all

whats my deal here? i have my voltometer and i am checking all areas on that no crank list as of now

 

[93 LX]

have the battery checked.. that is how mine gets when the battery is discharged or bad....

 

[KyleEBK]

whenever i tried starting it i had it connected to my other car with jumper cables and vehicle running

any reason why my regulator was stinking? do i need another?

 

[93 LX]

intrernal or external???

 

[KyleEBK]

its external, its mounted on the side of the fender near the stock battery location

 

[93 LX]

get another one or i think you can unplug it and see if it cranks...

 

[Threeo2]

I had a similar problem and I also thought it was the solenoid because of the clicking sound and the fact that all of my interior lights were still working.
I simply had a battery with a dead cell. go figure.

 

[KyleEBK]

i guess the voltage regulator only goes to the alternator, which failed test at autozone, im in the process of installing a 3 g which is internally regulated just waiting for a wire harness from rjminjection

bad alternator wouldnt cause this problem would it?

I mgiht just pull it to the autoshop and have them deal with the no starting after i put in the alternator, i dont have a jack and cant get under it, and not supposed to work on vehicles in our parking lot

 

[seedleSs619]

Voltage regulator

Yes i have a 1984 mustang svo and the alternators that orignally came with my car is a 1g external voltage regulator! so i went ahead and bought the 3g connection figureing it is a much powerfull 130 amp comes off the 95 mustang 5.0l only for svo bracketing mounting i had to find out the hard way i bought the wrong alternator 1g at autozone which was cheap 50 buks and i really dont know how to wire a 1g alternator with the external voltage regulator so i went ahead and decided i want a 3g alternator much better performance.