Soon to be build...help!!

02trickflowGT · Mar 20, 2012

Ok, heres the deal, My car has 150k on it and is smoking fairly worse everyday, time for a re build, replace. I have been looking to buy some complete motors out of wrecked mustang and I was able to find a couple like 60k miles complete motor for 1500$. How ever, if I was able to pull it off and it be worth it I could sell my bike and build my own.

I dont want to go crazy but id want a fairly solid bottom end, not shooting to make 500hp or anything and wont be running boost but im not really sure what all goes into a bottom end as iv only had to build the bottom end of a motor once and it was a 5.0 that we bored to a 306 and did forged internals and i was like 16 at the time.

I guess what im trying to find out is what all is in the bottom end that would need to be replaced to make it stronger as I feel the bottom end of the 2v is anything but impressive.. id probably be keeping stock heads maybe ported or something but at least for now im kinda on a budgett and want to keep it realistic. but i figured if you going to build it I should start from the bottom up. Thanks for any positive/negative input ahead of time!

motor right now has just boltons, on a tune, gears, ect..tthanks again!!,

after doing some more reasearch i have more questions!!!

can I just do forged pistons (je,manley) and forged rods (manley H) with the stock crank?
if so what CC pistions and whats the bore on them, another thing, with that many miles do i need to have the block machined before installing forged pistons or will that not be a problem?

Superhereaux · Mar 20, 2012

Welcome to Stangnet, don't post in black font. It's a pain in the ass to read.

I feel the bottom end of the 2v is anything but impressive..

What gives you that idea? Stock bottom end is more than adequate on a naturally aspirated build.

These lowly 2v's can churn out over 400hp EASY at the crank with a decent H/C/I combo and stock bottom end. Also, if it smokes what gives you the idea it needs to be rebuilt or replaced? What color is the smoke? Leaky intake valve seals could cause smoke as well as failing head gaskets.

02trickflowGT · Mar 21, 2012

Well its got alot of miles and if im going to do any more mods id like a fresh start, smoke is black, burning oil, and im pretty sure its the valve guides, how ever iv kind of veered off of the track i was going to go, i looked into the MMR 500 short block but decided that for now im going to get a low miles (40k and under) motor, than just do the trick flow top end kit, i really wouldnt need a built bottom end like you said unless i was making over 400 hp (boosted or big shot) so I think im going to check out the trickflow top end kit, yall have any opinions on that? seemed like a good deal, havent found any negative feed back yet!

thanks for the reply, iv been trying to get someone to help in 3 diff forums and its been over 2 days and no one had replied with any thing but smart ass comments or something stupid i clearly cant afford, much appreciated.

*****just looked at the kits, i was looking at the wrong kit and the one for my car is 3000$..so much for that :/ back to the drawing board

Rick 91GT · Mar 22, 2012

What's your budget?

02trickflowGT · Mar 22, 2012

I got about 22oo give or take, Im leaning more towards some suspension than maybe getting the heads ported/ upp lower intakes maybe? That or id like a set of cams, I rarley have 2200$ to drop on my car soo I want it too count and Maybe get some of the bigger stuff out of the way. maybe just a set of heads? i feel like i could accomplish more with that money than just buying a set of heads. Thanks again

02trickflowGT · Mar 22, 2012

what do yall think about the trick flow street heat intakes?

N8Dogg98 · Mar 22, 2012

Unless you plan on FI in the future, there's no reason to spend any money upgrading the shortblock. If you want to stay on a budget, remove your engine and do the work yourself rebuilding it to stock. Keep in mind though with machining costs you'll likely burn through at least half of you budget.

Consider what your long term goals are. If you want to stay N/A, then you might as well get some different pistons in there during the rebuild to up that c/r. I'd set a goal for somewhere around 11:1 if you're staying N/A. 11:1 comp + a good set of cams + ported PI heads would likely net somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 RWHP and it would have an excellent torque curve and driveability. If you really wanted to go crazy, you could try for 13:1 compression with flat pistons and plan on running E85.

At this point, it is difficult to give advice because we don't know what you want to do with your car and what your future plans are for it. As far as the TF intake, it's not worth it unless you're shoving some boost in that engine or are running a significant amount of nitrous. The stock intake is more than adequate for 300+ RWHP N/A.

Keep this in mind though:

Decent ported heads start off at $1200 and cams are around $600... new timing components will be another $150 minimum. These items already bring you right up to your budget.

ricky05uphs · Mar 22, 2012

You should try to find a low milage 4.6 explorer engine(aluminum), its 80lb less will handle over 400 at the wheels. Sell you stock heads and exploer (pi) heads. PUT THE TRICKFLOW 38cc heads with stock or not stock cams. They are better than anyother head in my opinion. KEEP THE PI INTAKE!! if you plan on staying n/a.

I have trickflows and stage 2 cam pi intake, built exploer block with stock compression. It feels great on the street and traps 111mph in the quarter

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