speaker size

badstang123 said:

I think it does. I had the mach system in mine (Before I put an entire new system) and there were 5x7's in the front doors and rear deck. Hope this helps.

Also, if you remove the plastic casing that holds the speaker, you could fit many different sizes by making a new speaker mount (ring) out of MDF wood. This is what I did for my 6 1/2 inch midbass speakers in my doors for my system.

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I did the same thing with my Audiobahn 6 1/2 mid bass.

You'll have to run resistors with new door speakers in the mach 460 setup because of the aftermarket sabotage

I got a duece of 6x8's in the front and 6x9's in the rear. The front speakers fit just perfect. The 9's wouldnt fit though, otherwise I would have all four.

Sorry to go off topic a bit. I've made rings before (for cars that never had OEM speakers in a given location) and I used plywood. What thickness, type (if there are grades or whatever) of MDF do you use for something like the front door speakers (like Badstang did)?

HISSIN50 said:

Sorry to go off topic a bit. I've made rings before (for cars that never had OEM speakers in a given location) and I used plywood. What thickness, type (if there are grades or whatever) of MDF do you use for something like the front door speakers (like Badstang did)?

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This should be more dependent upon your application as opposed to a single authority to what is best. When designing a box for a subwoofer it is imperative you use at least 3/4" MDF or thicker. This thickness and type of wood is the most resistant to flexing (Which is your worst enemy with a sub box).

Alternatively, if we look at the application of a door speaker, the purpose is merely for mounting since the door acts as the enclosure. In addition, door speakers don't see near the wattage that a subwoofer would. For this reason, the type of wood and thickness is not as important. I do, however, have some recommendations. Ideally I would use 3/4" MDF for this application as well. For me I feel more comfortable because of it's strength and resistance to resonation. I would not, however, deem it absolutely necessary. What is more important, is knowing the mounting depth of the speaker and your available depth before hitting something (In our cars the limitation is the window, when down). This must be taken into consideration to make sure the speakers depth doesn't interefere with the windows function. If depth is no issue, however, you could probably get away with thinner wood. Personally, I wouldn't use plywood. It would, however, probably perform without a noticable difference.

One last thing to consider is the mounting of the ring to the door. Since wood can only flex so much, often times it is hard to get a complete seal where the wood connects to the door. I recommend using either silicone or a soft formable clay to ensure this connection is air tight. It would be catastrophic to sound quality for soundwaves from behind the speaker to be resonating into the listening cabin like that.

Just my .02. If you have in interest in car audio the link in my sig to my car domain has pictures of some of my stereo install. If you have any other questions I would be more than happy to give my unprofessional and unedumacated opinion

Badstang, thank you for the reply. I've never been into stereo stuff too much (it's an expensive thing to get into). You pretty much covered what I was lookin for (that for any grade of speaker I personally would run [not the nice stuff you guys do], packaging is the primary concern over materials).
And I never knew about the importance of getting that seal (for reverberation/waves emanating forward from behind the speaker). I'll remember to make sure to seal things up.

I'll check out your sig later on tonight (when I have time to read and remember). Thanks again.

I have a little more to add to my previous post. When it comes to getting the most out of your speakers along side the previously mentioned things, proper deadening and sealing of the doors is crucial (Unfortunately difficult on our cars because of how the door panel attaches to the door itself). This will, however, net the best results in the midbass area. The link below is a textbook example of what to do. For most this will be extreme, but you can use it as a guidline to point you in the right direction. Then you just have to decide how far you want to take it.

http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=ht

Simple answer


5X7 - 6X8 is what these cars came factory with.

The first is a measure of the speaker if it were to be bottom mounted.

The 6X8 is the actual size, and what Ford would say due to top mounting. This measurement includes the speaker basket, the other does not.

The 6 1/2" will work with a nice little plate like pictured above, and most round speakers sound better than the oval style imho. Not to mention with rounds, there are a multitude of choices on speakers..................

Cool info. Thanks again Badstang. I'm certainly not into this stuff enough to use deadening. I have some fairly crap speakers (Cerwin Vega I think - came with the car) and a small box/amp in the trunk. Lamito. I'd like to get some better speakers at some point here though, hence my questions.

And Shane, nice to see you posting your wise thoughts again.

HISSIN50 said:

Cool info. Thanks again Badstang. I'm certainly not into this stuff enough to use deadening. I have some fairly crap speakers (Cerwin Vega I think - came with the car) and a small box/amp in the trunk. Lamito. I'd like to get some better speakers at some point here though, hence my questions.

And Shane, nice to see you posting your wise thoughts again.

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its ok we know you old people ain't into the loud music