Speaker Sizes Ect.. Mach 460 System Install...

stockers are 5x7

you can make custom panels and put some 6.5" speakers in there

5x7's all around

careful replacing the door speakers if you have a mach 460. They have an ohm rating equal to typical home theatre speakers, not typical car stereo speakers

yeah you can replace the tweeter in the mach 460 boxes


you might be better off just running new wires directly to the speakers from the head unit. the stock 460 amps are at a diff ohm rating (i forget what one it is now)

i built a simple setup for my trunk. removed spare and got some 1/4 MDF. cut out the shape for the 10" box. dropped it in



also have the amp under my rear seat delete

factory speakers (all around I believe minus tweeters) are 6ohm

its easiest just to bypass the factory amps and direct wire, 10+ year old factory technology

the amps aren't wired like aftermarket amps. It's all proprietary ford bull**** aftermarket sabotage.

Most people rip the 460 out and wire a new system

Also, the speakers are ran in parallel, so on 6 ohm speakers, the amp is seeing 3 from each. When you try to put in 4 ohm aftermarket speakers, the amp sees 2 ohms, which causes it to overheat

- The rear speakers in a vert are 5.25"
- The rear speakers in a coupe are 5x7"
- The fronts are 5"x7" in both coupe and conv. (5.5"x7.5" if you want to get technical).
- The tweeters are all 2.5"

Here are some things to consider because of the Mach systems insteresting configuration:

First you must understand the entire system is run by three amplifiers. The two amplfiers in the rear run the 5x7 speakers at mid/low frequencies, while one positioned behind the dash powers all four tweeters in the high/mid frequencies.

First lets consider the 5x7 woofers. The factory 5x7 speakers are 6 ohms. The strange part is that the front speakers and rear speakers are wired in sets. This meaning that the wiring from both front speaker leads into two wires which then lead to the amp. The rear similarly takes the two speakers and wires them to the other rear amp. The end result is that you get mono sound (Each speaker sees the same signal) for front and rear sets. In addition the amplifier then sees a 3 ohm load since the speakers are wired in parallel.

Now we can consider the problems this creates. First with two aftermarket 4 ohm speakers the amplifier for that set of speakers will see a 2 ohm load. Putting a lower ohm load on the amp will enable the amplifier to produce more power (Because of the decreased resistance) which will lead to increased heat. This may or may not destroy the amp but the likelihood of premature failure is increased significantly.

The second problem comes down to frequency crossover points and slopes. Let's consider a few scenarios.

1. If you bought a set of 4 ohm woofers alone: In addition to the increased chance of amp failure the different ohm load would change the frequency crossover point the amp sees changing what frequencies reach the speaker. This would completely alter the sound from the orignally intended to something that wouldn't sound full. It would sound awkward at best. Then you would have to find a set of aftermarket tweeters to hook to the tweeter amp, which would alter the ohm load once again affecting sound. Even more problamatic is that the aftermarket tweeters built in crossover would work in unison with the factory one and increase the crossover slope resulting a hollow sound with no warmth.

2. If you bought a coaxial set: Not only would the ohm difference change the crossover slope your tweeters would never see the high frequencies and all you would hear is bass.

3. If you bought a component set and hooked it up to the woofer amps: It would be the same as the above

4. If you bought a component set and hooked the tweeter up to the factory tweeter wiring and the woofer to the original woofer wiring: The crossover points would be horrendous for the speakers. Not only would the crossover points on the amps be altered because of the ohm differences the blend of sound between the two speakers would not be at the correct crossover. This correct crossover point is created by the passive crossover supplied with any component set that you would be unable to use because of the seperate amplifing. And don't forget that your tweeters would probably blow as well since the factory tweeter crossovers go lower than the typical smaller aftermarket tweeters.

I coud go into more depth but I think you get the idea. If you try aftermarket speakers with those factory mach amps your ****ed. It's all or nothing when upgrading from the mach system. I am relatively knowledgable about car audio so if you have any additional questions don't hesitate to ask.
- Justin

alright these 4.6s are already trying to stear you wrong. but the stock speakers for the mach sound system are the hard to find 6X8s. I do know that pioneer makes some good premier speakers for a decent price at 6X8. Just remember your in a 5.0 forum, its a bad idea to listen to 4.6s in here

qballenko said:

alright these 4.6s are already trying to stear you wrong. but the stock speakers for the mach sound system are the hard to find 6X8s. I do know that pioneer makes some good premier speakers for a decent price at 6X8. Just remember your in a 5.0 forum, its a bad idea to listen to 4.6s in here

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so what does this have to do with game shows?

qballenko said:

alright these 4.6s are already trying to stear you wrong. but the stock speakers for the mach sound system are the hard to find 6X8s. I do know that pioneer makes some good premier speakers for a decent price at 6X8. Just remember your in a 5.0 forum, its a bad idea to listen to 4.6s in here

Click to expand...

I think this is some kind of joke?

Regardless, lots of good information above. I forgot to mention the crossover frequencies, which is absolutely key. Even if you wired in a 2ohm resistor to each speaker to try to solve the power problem, you'll still have ****ty sounding speakers. Another good note on the mono sound. I don't know what Ford was thinking. This is what happens when you go with a proprietary system over outsourcing to bose, infinity, harmon kardon, etc.

I must also note: Before I knew all of this two years ago, I went in and put two very nice rockford fosgate woofers in the doors. I'm not quite sure how it happened, or if it's the responsibility of the crossover frequency/resistance, but even at moderate to low volumes I had really really bad vibrations coming from the woofer...I think the mach system may have been responsible for destroying the speakers

So beware!