Splicing the fuel line

[67topless]

I have a portion of the steel fuel line about 12 inches back from the front of the rocker panels that is crimped. Is there anything wrong with cutting the portion of the line out and splicing it with the rubber fuel line? Do I need to flare the tips?

Scott

 

[SoCalCruising]

No and no (although a good idea). Use fuel injection hose, though, as it is more durable.

 

[1320stang]

Why is it crimped? Is it something you did or way it already that way? Is it near the exhaust? The exhaust heat would deteriorate the rubber line faster no matter what kind is used.

 

[Cool67]

Scott,

Sorry to change the subject but I just noticed that you have a SSB conversion. Did you do it yourself? I'm thinking of doing the same conversion on my 67 too and was trying to find someone that already did it to ask how difficult it was and if there were any problems and how well it worked, that is, was it worth the money? Wayne.

 

[67topless]

Why is it crimped? Is it something you did or way it already that way? Is it near the exhaust? The exhaust heat would deteriorate the rubber line faster no matter what kind is used.

To be honest, it looks like it has been that way for years and the car still runs fine. However, I want to go ahead and correct it. It is right in the area where the jack stands go, so it would be my assumption that it was caught while jacking the car up.

It is a safe distance from the headers and exhaust, so I am not too concerned there.

 

[67topless]

Scott,

Sorry to change the subject but I just noticed that you have a SSB conversion. Did you do it yourself? I'm thinking of doing the same conversion on my 67 too and was trying to find someone that already did it to ask how difficult it was and if there were any problems and how well it worked, that is, was it worth the money? Wayne.

I did not do the conversion my-self, but wish I had. It appears to be a straight forward application and the kit includes everything you need; including the proportioning valve. I am sure there are better ways to go if you are budget minded, but I am happy with the quality of the kit.

 

[1320stang]

Then you'll probably be okay. Might be a spot to add a steel fuel filter as well if you don't have something like that in the system already. If nothing else, it'll look like the line was cut for a reason, LOL!!

 

[1320stang]

BTW Scott, what's the date code on your car?

My first Mustang was a '67 'vert, I don't know what date it was, never thought about it, it was totalled in NM in '87.

I've been looking for one with a Feb. 7th, 1967 date. Closest I've found was a 17th date.

 

[67topless]

BTW Scott, what's the date code on your car?

My first Mustang was a '67 'vert, I don't know what date it was, never thought about it, it was totalled in NM in '87.

I've been looking for one with a Feb. 7th, 1967 date. Closest I've found was a 17th date.

This is all I've come up with so far... I can't read the rest of the details on my door plate (including the date code). It was painted over the last time I had the car painted (one of the many disapointments). This car has been in the family since 1970 though if that helps!

model year: 1967
built at: San Jose (Milpitas, CA)
bodystyle: Convertible
engine: 289 CID - 2V
consecutive #: 15312
body series: Convertible - standard-trim bench seat
scheduled assy.: Unk. code - check entry
exterior color: Unk. code - check entry
interior trim: Unk. code - check entry
sales office (DSO): Unk. code - check entry
axle ratio: 2.79:1 "conventional"
transmission: 4-spd. manual

 

[1320stang]

I forgot the picture, I'll get it tonight.

Larry

 

[Cool67]

I did not do the conversion my-self, but wish I had. It appears to be a straight forward application and the kit includes everything you need; including the proportioning valve. I am sure there are better ways to go if you are budget minded, but I am happy with the quality of the kit.

OK, thanks.