Spring removal.

ThePumpkin · Mar 6, 2009

Can someone give me step by step instructions on the removal and replacement of the springs.
I'm doing the front first so lets start with that.
Anyone have pictures of the procedure?
It looks relatively easy, I just want to make sure before I mess something up.
Thanks in advance.

SublimeRT · Mar 6, 2009

I could tell you step by step, but I'm pretty positive there are plenty of spring install write-ups online that could be found in a google search.

Here ya go.

http://www.stangnet.com/tech/spring.html

http://www.americanmuscle.com/h-r-ss-spring-96-04-install.html

http://www.mustangevolution.com/articles/200716/

http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/steedaspring1.htm

http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/spring1.htm

ThePumpkin · Mar 6, 2009

Thanks!
I spent about a half hour looking for the specifics on the forums with no luck.
Thats EXACTLY what I need.

I'll put some pictures up when Im done!

Thanks.

OrangeMustangGt · Mar 7, 2009

good luck! Nice thing is you dont need a spring compressor, they literally just push in!

ThePumpkin · Mar 8, 2009

OrangeMustangGt said:
good luck! Nice thing is you dont need a spring compressor, they literally just push in!

We used a compressor to get the stock spring out. It may have been unnecessary, but it worked and I had all the time in the world.
Although we are having trouble getting the new spring in. The A arm is all the way down, we have legit space. But the spring wont just "pop" into the allotted circles its supposed to sit in. I've tried pushing, prying, kicking, jacking, lubing, hammering, from every angle I could fit in. We had four or five guys come by today... nobody could get the spring in. Whats the deal? In all the instructions it never mentions the newer SHORTER spring having any trouble at all getting it.
Is there a little secret I dont know about?
The spring compressor would work here but the threaded stick is too long, making it worthless.

Why am I having such trouble? Getting the stock spring out was easy. Getting the new one in has yet to happen.

Any advice?

HISSIN50 · Mar 8, 2009

You could shim the threaded stud so it doesnt bottom out (I've done Fox III springs this way -otherwise the threaded rod hits the frame before the spring is compressed).

Otherwise, the LCA bolts are nice and loose, right? I have Prokit springs, which are pretty tall for aftermarket springs, and they pop right in.

The alternate method is to disconnect the LCA bolts and remove them. Then reattach the ball joint. Your LCA is now pivoting on the fulcrum created by the strut. Put a good, large floor jack under the LCA. Put the spring in place in the perch. Then jack the LCA up and install the LCA bolts. If you want to read about this, it's referred to as the MFE method here and on the Corral. It's how I've done springs on most cars since I was a kid. You have to be real careful with the jack (and have a good, big jack. No 15 dollar specials) but it allows tall springs to be reinstalled because the pivot point (BJ) is so far from the spring (whereas the LCA bolts are too close to the spring).

Good luck.

drakesdad · Mar 8, 2009

HISSIN50 said:
You could shim the threaded stud so it doesnt bottom out (I've done Fox III springs this way -otherwise the threaded rod hits the frame before the spring is compressed).

Otherwise, the LCA bolts are nice and loose, right? I have Prokit springs, which are pretty tall for aftermarket springs, and they pop right in.

The alternate method is to disconnect the LCA bolts and remove them. Then reattach the ball joint. Your LCA is now pivoting on the fulcrum created by the strut. Put a good, large floor jack under the LCA. Put the spring in place in the perch. Then jack the LCA up and install the LCA bolts. If you want to read about this, it's referred to as the MFE method here and on the Corral. It's how I've done springs on most cars since I was a kid. You have to be real careful with the jack (and have a good, big jack. No 15 dollar specials) but it allows tall springs to be reinstalled because the pivot point (BJ) is so far from the spring (whereas the LCA bolts are too close to the spring).

Good luck.

JT, that's exactly how I did the springs on the Blue V6 vert I had.....first time I did springs, (they were broken) so I replaced them with stock ones.......

95BlueStallion · Mar 8, 2009

HISSIN50 said:
You could shim the threaded stud so it doesnt bottom out (I've done Fox III springs this way -otherwise the threaded rod hits the frame before the spring is compressed).

Otherwise, the LCA bolts are nice and loose, right? I have Prokit springs, which are pretty tall for aftermarket springs, and they pop right in.

The alternate method is to disconnect the LCA bolts and remove them. Then reattach the ball joint. Your LCA is now pivoting on the fulcrum created by the strut. Put a good, large floor jack under the LCA. Put the spring in place in the perch. Then jack the LCA up and install the LCA bolts. If you want to read about this, it's referred to as the MFE method here and on the Corral. It's how I've done springs on most cars since I was a kid. You have to be real careful with the jack (and have a good, big jack. No 15 dollar specials) but it allows tall springs to be reinstalled because the pivot point (BJ) is so far from the spring (whereas the LCA bolts are too close to the spring).

Good luck.

How hard is it to realign the LCA bolts once you are trying to put it back together? Im going to be doing spring work soon and would rather not deal with unbolting the whole stut and bj assembly.

HISSIN50 · Mar 8, 2009

95BlueStallion said:
How hard is it to realign the LCA bolts once you are trying to put it back together? Im going to be doing spring work soon and would rather not deal with unbolting the whole stut and bj assembly.

It can be a PITA. On Fox III's, when you first start to jack the LCA back up, the jack can really want to push away. Some people have put a big piece of wood under the jack's chassis so the jack's wheels cant roll.

The first time I ever did this method on a stang, it took me about 45 mins for the first side. Then I knew how it went and the second side took me 15 mins from start to finish.

If you can guess where the LCA needs to go, it helps a lot. I align things and do a dry run with no spring. Then lower the jack saddle, add the spring, and get it really close (if the jack doesnt move).

For the bolts, one side will line up before the other, so I just jack it till the first side is ready for a bolt (a screwdriver to help align the hole makes it easy), insert the bolt, start the nut, and then move to the other side (which usually requires a fraction of a jack pump to align).

ThePumpkin · Mar 8, 2009

Got it done. for some reason, the A arm wasn't dropping down as far as it could go. I just pressed on it with my foot. The spring didn't exactly go in easy but we got it. The other side was a LOT easier. I think I decided to do the wrong side first. We haven't got the rear springs in yet.
Im going to save that for nicer weather.
Thanks for the help.

I'll put some pictures up in a bit.

ThePumpkin · Mar 8, 2009

ThePumpkin · Mar 8, 2009

94-302-vert · Mar 9, 2009

Lowering the car has to be one of the cheapest and most rewarding mods there is huh?

drakesdad · Mar 9, 2009

ThePumpkin said:

I spy the wonder bar........I so loved using the "pickle" fork.........

Car looks great !

99FiveOh · Mar 9, 2009

What I don't spy is a nice long pry bar, maybe it was out of the shot or something. Def. worth having around for this type of work.

Looks good though, now lets see you put the rears in!

HISSIN50 · Mar 9, 2009

ThePumpkin said:
We haven't got the rear springs in yet.
Im going to save that for nicer weather.
Thanks for the help.

I'll put some pictures up in a bit.

The rears will be much easier and faster.

ThePumpkin · Mar 9, 2009

HISSIN50 said:
The rears will be much easier and faster.

Thats what I hear.
I'm hopefully going to do it tomorrow, but it might T-storm
Im beginning to like the look of the stance with only the fronts swapped.
Maybe an inch lower in the back would be prime
Too bad I got 2" all the way around.

No rubbing issues so far
I can almost guarantee I will in the back though.
i guess we'll see.

Anyone else running a 2 inch drop all the way around?

95BlueStallion · Mar 9, 2009

What are you running for caster/camber plates and shocks/struts?

Hef5.0weisen · Mar 9, 2009

Definently think about some cc plates, soon. The inboard edge of your front tires will get chewed up quick. And, if you're going that far, get the ball jonts and tie rod ends, then get a good alignment. Do it yourself, it's some work, but do-able.

OrangeMustangGt · Mar 10, 2009

Im amazed you had so much trouble. For me, the stock springs came out a little harder, but aftermarket shorter ones always pushed right in. You know, after looking at your picture I think i know why u had so much trouble. You should have jacked the entire front end of the car off the ground and used jackstands....I bet the sway bar was holding the a-arm from dropping all the way! same thing for the rear!

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