Spyder Shaft or Dynotech Driveshaft?

I am not arguing this with you. I KNOW FOR A FACT that STEEDA sold the SPYDERSHAFT as their own. This is FACT! It is possible that they may have stopped selling it and have switched to another one. It is possible that LRP has changed providers as well and that could explain the differences...

Called Steeda late this morning as was told they in fact no longer sell the Spydershaft. They told me they changed part numbers when they switched and the part numbers on their website now are totally different from what is in my paper catalog at home.

Unfortunately they would not tell me who their new supplier is. But it is not the Spydershaft anymore according to them.
 
Anyways... I agree erzats, the driveshaft is a crucial decision when upgrading as it has a big effect on the whole driveline(tranny to the axles)
As the Shaftmaster rep said too, why are the others so expensive? For R&D? Hardly... Some people just want money unfortunately. Granted some units are higher priced because they are a superior unit, but again as was said above, what about other units that have the same quality and performance for less?
I think I will try the Denny's though nonetheless. I mean how can you go wrong with this?

"We stand behind all of our Heavy Duty driveshafts....so remember "IF YOU EVER TWIST OUR TUBING OR BREAK OUR WELDS...WE'LL REPLACE IT FREE!!! That's the kind of quality and confidence you won't find elsewhere" :nice:

Only on their steel shafts, but still the steel is almost 20lb lighter than the stocker...
 
What HP is it rated for? You should always get a good margin for error ,example planning on 400 RWHP get at least 700 /800 rated shaft. Listen and feel for any vibration at all [low and high] speeds before really putting it to the test. Happy motoring.
 
What about driveshaft safety loops? what do you guys recommend. Most of the big brand units go for about 200 bucks. But there are more generic ones that can go for 50 like Lakewood, Jegs, etc. Can a decent one be had for cheap or are the big bucks needed?
 
What about driveshaft safety loops? what do you guys recommend. Most of the big brand units go for about 200 bucks. But there are more generic ones that can go for 50 like Lakewood, Jegs, etc. Can a decent one be had for cheap or are the big bucks needed?

If you have a one piece shaft you only need a front loop. I got a Granatelli front loop for mine. Decent price and simple install that does not require that you remove the shaft to install.
 
Casey, Thanks for thr info. Did you have to buy the front and rear or are they sold seperatly?
08 GT, Trust but verify.
Casey put a piece of wood [2x8] at the base of your ramp drive onto the 2x8 and then right up the ramp.
 
Casey, Thanks for thr info. Did you have to buy the front and rear or are they sold seperatly?
08 GT, Trust but verify.
Casey put a piece of wood [2x8] at the base of your ramp drive onto the 2x8 and then right up the ramp.

I bought the front and rear loops seperatly, the rear is BMR and the front is Granatelli. Since I never used the rear one I have it up for sale in our classified section.
 
I thought your car stalled when you got on the ramps.... I was suggesting taking a look at your fuel system lol...

Anyways try the wood block deal if not you could always jack your car up and lower it on the ramps if you have a 3 1/2 ton floor jack.
 
Unhappy with my driveshaft

I had a Dynashaft installed with a BMR adjustable upper control arm. Right away I noticed a low tone grinding noise from the rear of the car while turning right or left from a stop and a bad "shimmy" that started at about 110 MPH ! The speed shop said the noise was normal and maybe I needed the wheels balanced. Well the car was smooth when I took it to the shop! I'm going back to stock and hope to sell my parts on line. If I loose a tenth in the quarter I'll live with it.