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  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech

Spyder Shaft or Dynotech Driveshaft?

  • Thread starter Thread starter MaxDestruction
  • Start date Start date Jul 9, 2009
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Stangpilot

Founding Member
May 11, 2000
78
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0
Jul 18, 2009
#21
  • Jul 18, 2009
  • #21
TGJ said:
I am not arguing this with you. I KNOW FOR A FACT that STEEDA sold the SPYDERSHAFT as their own. This is FACT! It is possible that they may have stopped selling it and have switched to another one. It is possible that LRP has changed providers as well and that could explain the differences...
Click to expand...

Called Steeda late this morning as was told they in fact no longer sell the Spydershaft. They told me they changed part numbers when they switched and the part numbers on their website now are totally different from what is in my paper catalog at home.

Unfortunately they would not tell me who their new supplier is. But it is not the Spydershaft anymore according to them.
 

'08GTcaRED

New Member
Apr 8, 2009
330
0
0
Victorville, CA
Jul 18, 2009
#22
  • Jul 18, 2009
  • #22
Anyways... I agree erzats, the driveshaft is a crucial decision when upgrading as it has a big effect on the whole driveline(tranny to the axles)
As the Shaftmaster rep said too, why are the others so expensive? For R&D? Hardly... Some people just want money unfortunately. Granted some units are higher priced because they are a superior unit, but again as was said above, what about other units that have the same quality and performance for less?
I think I will try the Denny's though nonetheless. I mean how can you go wrong with this?

"We stand behind all of our Heavy Duty driveshafts....so remember "IF YOU EVER TWIST OUR TUBING OR BREAK OUR WELDS...WE'LL REPLACE IT FREE!!! That's the kind of quality and confidence you won't find elsewhere"

Only on their steel shafts, but still the steel is almost 20lb lighter than the stocker...
 
E

erzats

New Member
Nov 7, 2008
74
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0
Jul 18, 2009
#23
  • Jul 18, 2009
  • #23
What HP is it rated for? You should always get a good margin for error ,example planning on 400 RWHP get at least 700 /800 rated shaft. Listen and feel for any vibration at all [low and high] speeds before really putting it to the test. Happy motoring.
 

walter

Founding Member
Aug 13, 1998
1,054
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46
Houston TX
Jul 19, 2009
#24
  • Jul 19, 2009
  • #24
What about driveshaft safety loops? what do you guys recommend. Most of the big brand units go for about 200 bucks. But there are more generic ones that can go for 50 like Lakewood, Jegs, etc. Can a decent one be had for cheap or are the big bucks needed?
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
147
0
0
Woodbridge, VA
Jul 19, 2009
#25
  • Jul 19, 2009
  • #25
walter said:
What about driveshaft safety loops? what do you guys recommend. Most of the big brand units go for about 200 bucks. But there are more generic ones that can go for 50 like Lakewood, Jegs, etc. Can a decent one be had for cheap or are the big bucks needed?
Click to expand...

If you have a one piece shaft you only need a front loop. I got a Granatelli front loop for mine. Decent price and simple install that does not require that you remove the shaft to install.
 
E

erzats

New Member
Nov 7, 2008
74
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Jul 19, 2009
#26
  • Jul 19, 2009
  • #26
Casey , Is the granatelli a direct bolt on or did you have to drill?
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
147
0
0
Woodbridge, VA
Jul 19, 2009
#27
  • Jul 19, 2009
  • #27
erzats said:
Casey , Is the granatelli a direct bolt on or did you have to drill?
Click to expand...

Direct bolt on, no drilling, it uses the existing bolts/studs that hold on the heat shields. About a ten minute install (after it's on jack stands).

Loading... <---<<< LINK
 

'08GTcaRED

New Member
Apr 8, 2009
330
0
0
Victorville, CA
Jul 20, 2009
#28
  • Jul 20, 2009
  • #28
erzats

It's their Heavy Duty/Nitrous ready shaft. Since most of the pics are for funny cars and such with blowers sticking out the top, I'm going to assume that it is rated for a freaking lot of hp...
 

walter

Founding Member
Aug 13, 1998
1,054
0
46
Houston TX
Jul 20, 2009
#29
  • Jul 20, 2009
  • #29
Casey4s said:
Direct bolt on, no drilling, it uses the existing bolts/studs that hold on the heat shields. About a ten minute install (after it's on jack stands).

Loading... <---<<< LINK
Click to expand...

Or Ramps?
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
147
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0
Woodbridge, VA
Jul 20, 2009
#30
  • Jul 20, 2009
  • #30
walter said:
Or Ramps?
Click to expand...

Yeah ramps will work if your car is not lowered, I can't get mine started on ramps.
 

walter

Founding Member
Aug 13, 1998
1,054
0
46
Houston TX
Jul 20, 2009
#31
  • Jul 20, 2009
  • #31
Can't get started..?
 
E

erzats

New Member
Nov 7, 2008
74
0
0
Jul 20, 2009
#32
  • Jul 20, 2009
  • #32
Casey, Thanks for thr info. Did you have to buy the front and rear or are they sold seperatly?
08 GT, Trust but verify.
Casey put a piece of wood [2x8] at the base of your ramp drive onto the 2x8 and then right up the ramp.
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
147
0
0
Woodbridge, VA
Jul 21, 2009
#33
  • Jul 21, 2009
  • #33
walter said:
Can't get started..?
Click to expand...

Meaning that the front spoiler hits the ramp before the tires do, but erzats has a good idea for me to try.
 

Casey4s

New Member
Sep 1, 2007
147
0
0
Woodbridge, VA
Jul 21, 2009
#34
  • Jul 21, 2009
  • #34
erzats said:
Casey, Thanks for thr info. Did you have to buy the front and rear or are they sold seperatly?
08 GT, Trust but verify.
Casey put a piece of wood [2x8] at the base of your ramp drive onto the 2x8 and then right up the ramp.
Click to expand...

I bought the front and rear loops seperatly, the rear is BMR and the front is Granatelli. Since I never used the rear one I have it up for sale in our classified section.
 

walter

Founding Member
Aug 13, 1998
1,054
0
46
Houston TX
Jul 21, 2009
#35
  • Jul 21, 2009
  • #35
I thought your car stalled when you got on the ramps.... I was suggesting taking a look at your fuel system lol...

Anyways try the wood block deal if not you could always jack your car up and lower it on the ramps if you have a 3 1/2 ton floor jack.
 
E

erzats

New Member
Nov 7, 2008
74
0
0
Jul 21, 2009
#36
  • Jul 21, 2009
  • #36
Thanks for the info.
 
G

gperry

New Member
Jan 10, 2007
8
0
0
Gloucester County New Jersey
Apr 4, 2010
#37
  • Apr 4, 2010
  • #37
Unhappy with my driveshaft

I had a Dynashaft installed with a BMR adjustable upper control arm. Right away I noticed a low tone grinding noise from the rear of the car while turning right or left from a stop and a bad "shimmy" that started at about 110 MPH ! The speed shop said the noise was normal and maybe I needed the wheels balanced. Well the car was smooth when I took it to the shop! I'm going back to stock and hope to sell my parts on line. If I loose a tenth in the quarter I'll live with it.
 
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