Roush Squeaky Seats
- Thread starter SC281Girl
- Start date
marcus95
Active Member
I don't believe anyone would have an "exact" fix for this particular problem. That is because what you have is a "Ford" leather seat that Saleen has modified with larger side bolsters for support. I remember a lame dealer response about adding felt or something like that??? 
I would try using leather conditioner on the outside of that bolster to keep it soft. That would help some. If it means anything, this is nothing new for Saleen cars. The 87-91 Saleen Mustangs with the FloFit seats did the same thing. Well at least the leather ones and all the cloth ones actually have indentations ( dents ) on the outsides of the seat bolsters. All of my cars do. The only cars where this is not a problem is the cars that have real Recaro seats in them. That is becuase Recaro pays attention to things like this. None of my Recaro's rub on the doors.
I wish I had some better news but I don't. Believe it or not, especially since you have a vert, the best thing you can do to your car if nothing else at this very moment is full length subframe connectors unless you don't already have them. If I was a convert. guy that is the first thing I would do to it. It reduces flex in the entire car and makes it more like one piece as opposed to two. The first thing you notice, and especially in a vert is when you drive slowly in and out of driveways, the car does not creak as much. This would probably help your squeak also.
Good luck.
I would try using leather conditioner on the outside of that bolster to keep it soft. That would help some. If it means anything, this is nothing new for Saleen cars. The 87-91 Saleen Mustangs with the FloFit seats did the same thing. Well at least the leather ones and all the cloth ones actually have indentations ( dents ) on the outsides of the seat bolsters. All of my cars do. The only cars where this is not a problem is the cars that have real Recaro seats in them. That is becuase Recaro pays attention to things like this. None of my Recaro's rub on the doors.
I wish I had some better news but I don't. Believe it or not, especially since you have a vert, the best thing you can do to your car if nothing else at this very moment is full length subframe connectors unless you don't already have them. If I was a convert. guy that is the first thing I would do to it. It reduces flex in the entire car and makes it more like one piece as opposed to two. The first thing you notice, and especially in a vert is when you drive slowly in and out of driveways, the car does not creak as much. This would probably help your squeak also.
Good luck.
Head Paneer
Founding Member
One of our other members had the same problem with his '04. He pressed the dealership (Santa Margarita Ford in CA) to take car of the problem. They sent the seat out to an auto upholstery shop. They tore the seat down, trimmed the foam slightly, then recovered the seat. It looked like nothing had been done at all.
Since Marcus brought it up, I also strongly suggest subframe connectors as a first mod. I used to have a ’90 LX 5.0 and remember how flexi its chassis was, so subframes were the first mod done to our car.
Since Marcus brought it up, I also strongly suggest subframe connectors as a first mod. I used to have a ’90 LX 5.0 and remember how flexi its chassis was, so subframes were the first mod done to our car.
Interesting post... The seat noise I can live with but I'm interested in the subframe connectors. I think this mod would make a big diffference in the ride. My car jumps all over the road at any speed.
Where can you purchase them and are they hard to install? Any special tools needed? (i.e welder, torch. etc.) Cost?
Any info on this mod would be helpful.
BTW... This Forum is the best one on the web!
RickC.
NJ
2003 #313 'vert HH edition
Where can you purchase them and are they hard to install? Any special tools needed? (i.e welder, torch. etc.) Cost?
Any info on this mod would be helpful.
BTW... This Forum is the best one on the web!
RickC.
NJ
2003 #313 'vert HH edition
Acheron315
New Member
There are multiple companies that make subframe connectors. Just stay away from Kenny Brown!
A lot of people, including me, love the Maximum Motorsports full length ones. You can get them powdercoated as well, for extra durability. You can get them for $149.00, located here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/sfc.asp
Installation is simple if you know how to weld. Just make sure the car is on a drive on lift with the weight on the wheels. Instructions are located here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/instructions/MMSF-3.pdf
I don't know how to weld, but my exhaust shop installed these for 70 dollars.
I was skeptical about how much they would make the ride better, but it was night and day. Ride was firmer, and several squeeks disappeared.
A lot of people, including me, love the Maximum Motorsports full length ones. You can get them powdercoated as well, for extra durability. You can get them for $149.00, located here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/sfc.asp
Installation is simple if you know how to weld. Just make sure the car is on a drive on lift with the weight on the wheels. Instructions are located here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/instructions/MMSF-3.pdf
I don't know how to weld, but my exhaust shop installed these for 70 dollars.
I was skeptical about how much they would make the ride better, but it was night and day. Ride was firmer, and several squeeks disappeared.
lgndracer
New Member
Acheron315 said:
I've got, and love em. Probably the best thing I put on my car for driving every day.
Head Paneer
Founding Member
You will notice a benefit from just about any weld-on connector. If you want something beefier, this is a nice setup from Global West.
There is lots of cross bracing and mounts for the seats to bolt through.
Maximum also has a similar style, I believe and would be my second choice. Stay away from any bolt-on subframes.
There is lots of cross bracing and mounts for the seats to bolt through.
Maximum also has a similar style, I believe and would be my second choice. Stay away from any bolt-on subframes.
marcus95
Active Member
As mentioned above Maximum Motorsports subframes are great. I use their camber caster plates and love them.
In my S351 however, I use the Global West subframe single tubes with seat supports. No more twist, flex or creaking going on in a car with properly installed full length sub frame connectors isntalled. In my opinion, the single most important mod to do before anything else. They need to be welded in. If you have a muffler shop install them, just make sure you or the "welder" understands how to install. I have seen them welded in some cars backwards before.
In my S351 however, I use the Global West subframe single tubes with seat supports. No more twist, flex or creaking going on in a car with properly installed full length sub frame connectors isntalled. In my opinion, the single most important mod to do before anything else. They need to be welded in. If you have a muffler shop install them, just make sure you or the "welder" understands how to install. I have seen them welded in some cars backwards before.
s351rspeedster
New Member
Head Paneer said:You will notice a benefit from just about any weld-on connector. If you want something beefier, this is a nice setup from Global West.
There is lots of cross bracing and mounts for the seats to bolt through.
Maximum also has a similar style, I believe and would be my second choice. Stay away from any bolt-on subframes.
Why is the under carriage of your car so dirty Dennis????
Head Paneer
Founding Member
s351rspeedster said:Why is the under carriage of your car so dirty Dennis????
That's funny, Robert.
It's an old pic taken during the "rainy season" a few years ago. Do you like Joe's black spray job near the top of the photo? I should do something about that but who the heck looks under a car anyway.
marcus95
Active Member
Head Paneer said:That's funny, Robert.
It's an old pic taken during the "rainy season" a few years ago. Do you like Joe's black spray job near the top of the photo? I should do something about that but who the heck looks under a car anyway.
Let's see under Robert's coupe. Then we can compare.
I love joe's welding ability but he sucks as a painter!
s351rspeedster
New Member
marcus95 said:
Let's see under Robert's coupe. Then we can compare.
I'll admit that the coupe would be rather dirty. But I know the speedster would be cleaner. What about your coupe Marcus??? You have less then 5,000 on the odometer. Yours should look just like the rest of you car, Right??
marcus95
Active Member
s351rspeedster said:I'll admit that the coupe would be rather dirty. But I know the speedster would be cleaner. What about your coupe Marcus??? You have less then 5,000 on the odometer. Yours should look just like the rest of you car, Right??
Of course!
It's perfect! Oh, and that's 6,000 miles.
Hey Guys, thanks for the advice... I just went to a shop and they told me the carpet ( in most cases) has to be taken out and reinstall. The reason for this was the heat from the welder. Is this true? They also recommended the FORD RACING & Roush Subframe connectors. The Roush one's cost $302.00.
Rick
Rick
marcus95
Active Member
http://www.globalwestsuspension.com/cart/show_item.asp?MainCatID=10&CategoryID=73&ItemID=319
$145.00 for the singles. Is your price installed?
$145.00 for the singles. Is your price installed?
Nope, That's for the pair... installation is extra. Maybe a 150 to install.
My car is a convertible, so I'm going to try a different shop and use the maximum performance shop directions and see what it would cost.
What about pulling out the carpet? is this a concern? Did you have to do that?
Rick C,
NJ
My car is a convertible, so I'm going to try a different shop and use the maximum performance shop directions and see what it would cost.
What about pulling out the carpet? is this a concern? Did you have to do that?
Rick C,
NJ
marcus95
Active Member
Nah,
You should not need to pull your carpet if the guy who installs/weld your subs in know how to weld and doesn't stay in one place for too long. No one I know says pull the carpet. Where are going for your insall, a muffler shop??? They probably started a fire in more than one car and that's why they want you to pull the carpet.
Oh, and by singles, I meant the single tube subfram connectors as opposed to the tri ladders. The singles on Global West's website are $145 for the set and that includes gussets and seat supports. You won't be sorry going with Global West.
You should not need to pull your carpet if the guy who installs/weld your subs in know how to weld and doesn't stay in one place for too long. No one I know says pull the carpet. Where are going for your insall, a muffler shop??? They probably started a fire in more than one car and that's why they want you to pull the carpet.
Oh, and by singles, I meant the single tube subfram connectors as opposed to the tri ladders. The singles on Global West's website are $145 for the set and that includes gussets and seat supports. You won't be sorry going with Global West.
WOW....thanks for all the info. The squeaks I can deal with when I have the top down and the music cranked. However, there are times when you just want to hear the sound of the car and the squeaks get in the way. I have talked with a couple of other people and another suggestion about the squeaky seat for a quick fix is to spray silicone on the inside of the door 1x a week or so. I guess when I get good and tired of the noise, I'll get some Recaro's.
The weld on connector that you talk of above, great idea. This won't interfere with Saleen's warranty, will it?
The weld on connector that you talk of above, great idea. This won't interfere with Saleen's warranty, will it?
HazeGray
Member
My 2004 Saleen coupe has the same passenger side squeaky seat problem. My fix is I push the seat back all the way to the rear and recline it to the lowest position and it doesn't rub. My driver's side seat doesn't seem to have a problem with rubbing against the door panel.
Thanks for the link for the subframe connectors...I'll have to look into those.
Thanks for the link for the subframe connectors...I'll have to look into those.
