Dan_Soprano said:
That just goes to show you that my winter beater truck is more of a POS then yours b/c I highly doubt mine would make that trip. I would have to stop about 4-5 times to check the oil level plus it hates interstate driving.
North East SSoM Members!!!
- Thread starter whitehorseupnorth
- Start date
That just goes to show you that my winter beater truck is more of a POS then yours b/c I highly doubt mine would make that trip. I would have to stop about 4-5 times to check the oil level plus it hates interstate driving.
cold96snake
shocks are easy to do. getting those out of the way will help a little when putting the exhaust in. As Travis said, you will need to support the subframe not the axel. I put tall jackstands under the subframes to hold the weight of the car and then let the rear axel hang down, especially if you disconnect the shocks. A couple of years ago I did that while replacing my lower control arms. With those lower arms disconnected the rear end will hang down even more(support it with a jack). Doing this allowed me to remove the whole cat back in one piece(each side). You probably don't want to keep your old cat back so I would just cut the pipes in two and make it easier on your self. If you can get the old pipes out yourself then you can get the new one in by yourself. Before you tighten up the new exhaust for good, make sure move the jack stands under the axel and let the weight of the vehicle sit on those. That will show you how much room you have between the mufflers and the driveshaft. It will also allow you to see how much room you have between the mufflers and subframes. Adjust the exhaust until you have enough clearence on all side and that the pipes hang evenly in the back. Take you time and make it look good.
I have problems with one muffler hitting the subframe when I take corners and one muffler hits the driveshaft when I go over bumps. NOT MY WORK. It was the previous owner. It is very annoying to hear those thumps and screechs of metal scraping metal. I will fix this this winter. As I said take your time and make it fit properly.
As for the struts, those aren't bad either. Just support the A arm that the spring sits on. Be real careful with that because that spring could do some serious damage to you if it pops out. Make sure you support it with a floor jack. Its also not a bad idea to attach a chain to the spring and attach the other end to the frame or engine. You will need a imact gun on the top nut of the strut that goes up into the engine bay. If you don't have one then findsome one that does. Have them just loosen it a little for you so you can still drive it home and remove it youself. That is what I did last year.
After you replace the struts then I think you need a front end alignment. If you are going to go this far with the struts then you might want to think about Caster/Camber plates. I suggest Maximum Motorsports because they are made of steel and have a spherical bushing to support the strut and not a chunk of rubber or poly. This is what I have on my car.
Those Illumina as supposed to be real nice. Also hear great things about Bilstein. Sooner or later I have to upgrade my shocks and struts as well.
Damn I think this is my longest post ever.
shocks are easy to do. getting those out of the way will help a little when putting the exhaust in. As Travis said, you will need to support the subframe not the axel. I put tall jackstands under the subframes to hold the weight of the car and then let the rear axel hang down, especially if you disconnect the shocks. A couple of years ago I did that while replacing my lower control arms. With those lower arms disconnected the rear end will hang down even more(support it with a jack). Doing this allowed me to remove the whole cat back in one piece(each side). You probably don't want to keep your old cat back so I would just cut the pipes in two and make it easier on your self. If you can get the old pipes out yourself then you can get the new one in by yourself. Before you tighten up the new exhaust for good, make sure move the jack stands under the axel and let the weight of the vehicle sit on those. That will show you how much room you have between the mufflers and the driveshaft. It will also allow you to see how much room you have between the mufflers and subframes. Adjust the exhaust until you have enough clearence on all side and that the pipes hang evenly in the back. Take you time and make it look good.
I have problems with one muffler hitting the subframe when I take corners and one muffler hits the driveshaft when I go over bumps. NOT MY WORK. It was the previous owner. It is very annoying to hear those thumps and screechs of metal scraping metal. I will fix this this winter. As I said take your time and make it fit properly.
As for the struts, those aren't bad either. Just support the A arm that the spring sits on. Be real careful with that because that spring could do some serious damage to you if it pops out. Make sure you support it with a floor jack. Its also not a bad idea to attach a chain to the spring and attach the other end to the frame or engine. You will need a imact gun on the top nut of the strut that goes up into the engine bay. If you don't have one then findsome one that does. Have them just loosen it a little for you so you can still drive it home and remove it youself. That is what I did last year.
After you replace the struts then I think you need a front end alignment. If you are going to go this far with the struts then you might want to think about Caster/Camber plates. I suggest Maximum Motorsports because they are made of steel and have a spherical bushing to support the strut and not a chunk of rubber or poly. This is what I have on my car.
Those Illumina as supposed to be real nice. Also hear great things about Bilstein. Sooner or later I have to upgrade my shocks and struts as well.
Damn I think this is my longest post ever.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/index.asp
If you look at the caster/camber plates section and click on the part # you need it will open up Adobe Acrobat Reader and show you the whole installation instruction sheet. Give you a little info before you decide to dive right into that.
There is also info on other products like the shocks and springs.
If you look at the caster/camber plates section and click on the part # you need it will open up Adobe Acrobat Reader and show you the whole installation instruction sheet. Give you a little info before you decide to dive right into that.
There is also info on other products like the shocks and springs.
Dan_Soprano
15 Year Member
Dan_Soprano
15 Year Member
DoubleONegative
Active Member
Sweet!!!!...Hey Dan while i am in Brunswick today i'll stop by and see the bruiser if your home, i gotta get the Jetta inspected today.
You remember that Red Turbo GT we saw at the MU show last year????SNKYPETE he post in this forum sometimes... anyway his car is in MM&FF this month
You remember that Red Turbo GT we saw at the MU show last year????SNKYPETE he post in this forum sometimes... anyway his car is in MM&FF this month
that is a sweet car. did you see the other one in MM & FF recently? Red 93 cobra Turbo. I saw a couple of videos of the cobra. Real fast and that turbo sounds sweet. Page 158 of same issue. Title 10 stock blocker.DoubleONegative said:
Dan_Soprano
15 Year Member
call the cell when you want to come by so I know to be here....522-2554DoubleONegative said:
here's a link for everyone else......
FUNNY STUFF!!!!
Dan_Soprano
15 Year Member
cold96snake
20+ Year Stangneter 
Hey, thanks guys. 
It did come today. I think I'll just do the rear suspension and cat-back and let some one else f u c k with the front, although i do have an air compressor. 
Also, I don't think the side exhaust will be very hard to get off. I just talked to a friend of mine in Sanford, and he's gonna help me out.
Damn dial-up, takes too long for funny stuff link.
Oh, and watch out for Kermit.
It did come today. I think I'll just do the rear suspension and cat-back and let some one else f u c k with the front, although i do have an air compressor. Also, I don't think the side exhaust will be very hard to get off. I just talked to a friend of mine in Sanford, and he's gonna help me out. Damn dial-up, takes too long for funny stuff link.
Oh, and watch out for Kermit.
Dan_Soprano
15 Year Member
I didn't realize that you had a side exhaust. That will come off easy I'm sure.cold96snake said:Hey, thanks guys.
The front is not bad at all. Its pretty easy just replacing struts.
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