North East SSoM Members!!!

I thought you liked Florida, at least for a while.
Still busy around here working. Stuff I worked on in the past week looks pretty good and just needs another coat of paint to be done. Hard to get it done in all this rain.
Cut the wires to the MSD box and turned the battery back on. Nothing was running that shouldn't have been with the ignition off. That was a good sign. Had to hook up the OEM coil to the distributor. She fired right up without any problems. Removed the MSD and cleaned up the mess the best I could but the paint is stained where the resin dripped out. Will have to look into getting another box but that one I will mount in the hatch area to help keep it away from the heat and to mostly clean up some of the clutter in the engine bay. I have seen pics of them mounted inside the hatch area and think it looks good there.
 
you can definitely put them inside the car instead of the engine bay. If you need to lengthen the wires then you need to go to a larger gauge wire.
I'm glad my car is fine. Now if we could get some nicer weather I could take the bike to work. Almost have 500 miles on the bike, would have been more but this rain sucks.
 
The Mustang is running again but it breaks up at 4,000 RMP's still. For some reason when I tried the different ECU it erased the tune in the DBX digital meter so that's why it would start up and then stall out again. Chris unplugged the meter and it ran and did not stall out, ran like hell but it stayed running. I put the tune back in and it ran mint up until 4,000 RPMS. Im going to try the other ECU again just to make sure nothing is damaged in my current one ( going to unplug the meter this time) and if there is no improvement then Im getting another distributor
 
wow I wonder what the hell is wrong with your car. I wonder if trying a different coil would help. Might eliminate one more possibility. Check the distributor cap? Perhaps a different cap could also help because you might not be able to see a crack in the cap that would cause problems.
 
wow I wonder what the hell is wrong with your car. I wonder if trying a different coil would help. Might eliminate one more possibility. Check the distributor cap? Perhaps a different cap could also help because you might not be able to see a crack in the cap that would cause problems.

Here is a list of whats been tested, replaced or different part used.

Coil

Spark Plug wires

TFI

TPS

Spark Plugs

The cap is new as of this month a yr ago. The only thing left that has to do w/ the electrical system is the Distributor. Its a rebuilt Napa one so that's why Im going to try that next, just going to replace it w/ a Ford OEM Dist for a 351 ( Which are really hard to find) But found a guy w/ one selling it for $120

This has been going on since right after the dyno tune. The first time I went to the track after the tune w/ the new MT Slicks it started to do this so I have yet to make a full pass this year w/ the car tuned and the slicks.
 
my old lx used to break up under a load at around 3500-3800 i changed everything electrical and come to find out it was a bad fuel filter.. sometimes it's the dumb stuff.. So my friend in Rhode Island has replaced about everything possible on his car, he is getting spark at the plugs, 40psi fuel press and it won't start still...
 
A tornado hit near NAS Jax yesterday. Started in Mandarin, hit the St. Johns and took off north up the river. No one hurt at all, only damage to the city was some downed tree limbs and power line. God was watching over us down here yesterday!!! Pics are from the parking lot looking south east across the road from BEQ 822 on base.




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Its a rebuilt Napa one so that's why Im going to try that next, just going to replace it w/ a Ford OEM Dist for a 351 ( Which are really hard to find) But found a guy w/ one selling it for $120
have you checked around at some junkyards. You could probably get one dirt cheap. Yeah I know it would be a little worn but if it cures the problem then you could pony up the money for a new one or a MSD unit afterward. That would seem a logical and cheaper way of going about things instead of throwing money at it until you discover the source of the problem.

The caster/camber plates aren't bad. Your alignment will be off so not a great idea to do a bunch of driving after.
 
I considering finding the one I did for $120 w/ 16,000 miles on it the best option. Better then an MSD and only $30 more then a remaned one from NAPA and saves me the hassle of calling around every junk yard in the area looking for a part that I would put money on right now that they dont have.
 
at least those are brick and mortar places not someone who may be lying to you. Plus the ones I pointed out had a warranty. Another plus is the price and yes you can find out the mileage on some if not most of those. I'm just pointing out that you can get one dirt cheap just to see if its the problem. If it doesn't solve the problem then you didn't spend much to find that out. You've been throwing money at the problem and its still there so why not try to do it cheaper?