Stalling issue

[notched1]

Ideas? (only) On hotter days(35+c) in slower light to light traffic Ive had it (89lx) stall out like it was starving for gas. Go to restart and its like the cats are kicking/bucking like crazy. Let the car cool down a few and it goes away like nothing happened....Is this what considered a vapor lock or have something to do with the O2 sensors getting loaded up/overheated or ???

thanks 89



"Get that pos off the road" as quoted moments ago by import *** with 3 baby seats in the back of his sewing machine.

 

[srothfuss]

Have you checked the codes to let the computer tell you where to begin looking? What type of mods do you have?

Stalling can be many problems... Sometimes it's as simple as changing the air filter

 

[notched1]

Not yet. Filter(K&N) was just cleaned/oiled

Very basic bolt on mods. None fuel related.

 

[srothfuss]

How is the electrical system on the car? Sometimes if the ECU doesn't get enough electricity then the car can stall.

Dumping the codes would only take 2 minutes and you only need a piece of 2" long wire to do it...

 

[HISSIN50]

Could be ignition (TFI). Does it restart immediately? How is FP at warm idle? There are a lot of possibilities. Stuff needs to be narrowed a bit. O2's would not be near the top of my list. Bad MAF perhaps.

Good luck.

 

[bdog9seclx]

if u just cleaned your kn it is most likely the juice from it coated your maf sensor elements...use electric cleaner to clean it be careful thooo. u must take the black top off of the maf to get to it...can stress enuff careful....lemme know if it fixes it..

 

[Black1987Stang]

if u just cleaned your kn it is most likely the juice from it coated your maf sensor elements...use electric cleaner to clean it be careful thooo. u must take the black top off of the maf to get to it...can stress enuff careful....lemme know if it fixes it..

I was gonna say the same thing...clean the maf since the oil likes to get on the maf elements. and also to pull the codes

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.