Stalling while turning

Wisstang · Sep 5, 2020

I have a 95 mustang h/c/I. SCT BA2600 calibrated for accel 36lb injectors. 340lph fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

All these parts are new as of 200 miles ago. My car has developed an issue stalling when turning at low speeds or if turning hard and not moving but with the clutch in and no gas. This seems to happen hot or cold. The RPMs will just drop instantly and the car shuts off. Sometimes pressing the gas while it happens can save it. IAC has been replaced with no luck. Each time it stalls it seems to correlate with turning. It is worth with AC on. At idle turning the wheel hard does drop the RPM.

Hoping for any input on what could possibly cause this behavior.

96pushrod · Sep 5, 2020

What cam does the car have? There is some tuning that needs to be done so it doesn’t stall out when the load is placed on the engine from the ps pump.

Wisstang · Sep 6, 2020

96pushrod said:
What cam does the car have? There is some tuning that needs to be done so it doesn’t stall out when the load is placed on the engine from the ps pump.

F303. It now has a tune from Ted Jenkins from tuning innovations. It previously had a tune locally that had the same issue

General karthief · Sep 6, 2020

I would say the only thing that got tuned was your wallet.
What other mods does this car have?

Wisstang · Sep 6, 2020

General karthief said:
I would say the only thing that got tuned was your wallet.
What other mods does this car have?

Heads, cam, intake, maf, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator.

General karthief · Sep 6, 2020

Ok, so since you are being vague on the mods I will guess this is not a very well planed out build, and the only thing I can suggest to do is go through the ' surging idle checklist' in the technical/how to thread.
Actually let me go a little farther and guess you are not running a blower or a supercharger so your maf (when I looked up the maf specs and at 90mm it is for a blower or supercharger) and injectors are way too big.

Wisstang · Sep 6, 2020

General karthief said:
Ok, so since you are being vague on the mods I will guess this is not a very well planed out build, and the only thing I can suggest to do is go through the ' surging idle checklist' in the technical/how to thread.

I didnt realize you wanted specifics. I'd mentioned some in the original post.

Trickflow trackheat upper/lower
Edelbrock performer heads
F303 cam
Moates fv32 chip
Accel 36# injectors
Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump
SCT BA2600
Believe bbk fuel pump regulator
Bbk equal length shorties
Bbk or x
Slip lm2

Wisstang · Sep 6, 2020

General karthief said:
Ok, so since you are being vague on the mods I will guess this is not a very well planed out build, and the only thing I can suggest to do is go through the ' surging idle checklist' in the technical/how to thread.
Actually let me go a little farther and guess you are not running a blower or a supercharger so your maf (when I looked up the maf specs and at 90mm it is for a blower or supercharger) and injectors are way too big.

I am not running forces induction at this point. The shop that built it picked those items knowing that I'd like a supercharger in the nearish future.

The cars been together for 10 months or so but I've only driven it for a few hundred miles. It's a recently developed problem and most of the mileage I didnt experience this problem. The problem was persistent through a new tune which did clean up my idle a bit. Ted was recommended as specializing in the 94/95 mustangs.

General karthief · Sep 6, 2020

What does it idle at with no accessories on?

Wisstang · Sep 6, 2020

General karthief said:
What does it idle at with no accessories on?

Around 8-900

Edit: to add egr and smog have been deleted. Tuner was aware of this though

General karthief · Sep 6, 2020

Since this is a new problem and the idle should be good at 8-900 rpms I would jack the front up so there is no weight on the front wheels and see if it still stalls when turning, also turn the wheel by hand with the engine off to tell if you have a bind in the stearing parts ie: ball joints, struts bearing caps.

Potomus Pete · Sep 6, 2020

There is another post on here and the car grounded out while turning. A chance of ground out ??

Wisstang · Sep 6, 2020

Potomus Pete said:
There is another post on here and the car grounded out while turning. A chance of ground out ??

Anything is possible. The two grounds by the battery look intact but I'm sure there are more

General karthief · Sep 6, 2020

It would be around the areas where the steering linkage could rub a cable/wire or at the base of the steering column at the ignition switch is or even possibly the switch itself but I don't see where turning the wheel would effect the switch.

revhead347 · Sep 7, 2020

General karthief said:
Ok, so since you are being vague on the mods I will guess this is not a very well planed out build, and the only thing I can suggest to do is go through the ' surging idle checklist' in the technical/how to thread.
Actually let me go a little farther and guess you are not running a blower or a supercharger so your maf (when I looked up the maf specs and at 90mm it is for a blower or supercharger) and injectors are way too big.

It actually looks like he has some quality stuff to me, and the build decisions make sense. There is no such thing as too big of an injector at idle. All injectors have to flow near nothing at idle. I do agree it is most likely a tuning problem. Sometimes an old power steering system can cause it to stall.

Was this car tuned in person, or was this a mail in sort of deal?

Kurt

Wisstang · Sep 7, 2020

revhead347 said:
It actually looks like he has some quality stuff to me, and the build decisions make sense. There is no such thing as too big of an injector at idle. All injectors have to flow near nothing at idle. I do agree it is most likely a tuning problem. Sometimes an old power steering system can cause it to stall.

Was this car tuned in person, or was this a mail in sort of deal?

Kurt

Original was tuned in person but was rough and had the issue.

New tune from tuning innovations was remote.

Unfortunate part of tuning in person is this is the only shop in the state I know of thay will tune something this age.

revhead347 · Sep 7, 2020

Wisstang said:
Original was tuned in person but was rough and had the issue.

New tune from tuning innovations was remote.

Unfortunate part of tuning in person is this is the only shop in the state I know of thay will tune something this age.

I am familiar with how hard it is to get something tuned in certain areas. I would contact tuning innovations again and ask if they can make an adjustment to their remote tune to see if it helps. Nothing replaces having someone tune it on sight unfortunately.

Kurt

Wisstang · Oct 3, 2020

To provide some update. So far things are seeming to perform better after TPS, Ford IAC replacement, and fixing a leak from the throttle body and a proper EGR block off. The original shop crimped the pipe but it wasn't sealed. Going to keep an eye on these items and go from there if the issue pops up again.

Potomus Pete · Oct 3, 2020

So its fixed, and runs well?? Lets get a picture up.

Wisstang · Oct 6, 2020

Well I was too hopeful. I was able to replicate the issue again. Seems worse when backing up.

Interesting thing is that at a stand still I can turn the wheel hard and watch the RPM drop, turning the wheel slowly doesnt appear to cause a similar issue. Seemed to drop to 600 RPM on one test. I need to get it off the ground and test without friction as was recommended earlier.

The proper egr block off, tps, and IAC did seem to help idle a bit. We also found that timing was close around 18 degrees and backed that off.

Picture as requested. Needs new wheels but I'm liking the height on coilovers. Dont mind the missing wheel cap, that broke when changing out lug nuts.

Stalling while turning

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