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Electrical Starter Heat Shield

  • Thread starter Thread starter GoldenEagle91
  • Start date Start date Feb 21, 2014
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GoldenEagle91

Active Member
Dec 25, 2012
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Feb 21, 2014
#1
  • Feb 21, 2014
  • #1
Good evening gents,

I have any issue with my starter where when I have been running the engine for a bit and then turn it off I am unable to start it up right away. I believe this is because the heat off the exhaust manifolds is getting to the starter solenoid because if it has about 10 to 15 minutes to cool off it starts right up. I was wondering if anyone knows if there was a OEM heat shield over the starter and where I might be able to find one. I have come across a universal type sleeve on Jegs but I wanted to see if there might be an actual piece of metal I could pick up. If anyone has an idea please drop me a line on here.

Thanks,
Andrew
 

tonydalrymple

Active Member
Nov 27, 2004
167
29
39
Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 2, 2014
#2
  • Mar 2, 2014
  • #2
Honestly, if you are running raw non-ceramic coated long tube headers & high compression; you might have starter heat soak issues. If not, you likely have a weak starter, a bad ground, ignition module heat soak, and or bad fuseable link IMHO...
 
Reactions: GoldenEagle91

GoldenEagle91

Active Member
Dec 25, 2012
240
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Mar 2, 2014
#3
  • Mar 2, 2014
  • #3
tonydalrymple said:
Honestly, if you are running raw non-ceramic coated long tube headers & high compression; you might have starter heat soak issues. If not, you likely have a weak starter, a bad ground, ignition module heat soak, and or bad fuseable link IMHO...
Click to expand...

Well, I'm beginning to lean towards bad wiring or a weak starter. The starter solenoid is mounted on the passenger fender with a rats nest of crap running to it. I will be cleaning up this whole deal when I put my new engine into it. I have found other problems with the wiring of other parts on my car so it leads me to believe that somebody who didn't know what they were doing was jerry rigging some things and this is the product of it.
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
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Mar 2, 2014
#4
  • Mar 2, 2014
  • #4
Does it just not crank or cranks and won't start?
 

GoldenEagle91

Active Member
Dec 25, 2012
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Mar 2, 2014
#5
  • Mar 2, 2014
  • #5
84Ttop said:
Does it just not crank or cranks and won't start?
Click to expand...

It will crank but won't start if it's a hot start. I've had it happen when I've been getting gas before. I don't shut it off when I'm gassing up anymore. Usually need at least 10 minutes after I shut it off to start it back up.
 

JohnnyK81

Member
Sep 17, 2007
83
0
7
Mar 3, 2014
#6
  • Mar 3, 2014
  • #6
Very confused. You said it cranks.. If it cranks, it has nothing to do with heat soaking the starter?
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
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South Jersey
Mar 3, 2014
#7
  • Mar 3, 2014
  • #7
If its cranking then rule the starter and solenoid and associated wiring out. You may have a bad module Or something of that nature.
 

GoldenEagle91

Active Member
Dec 25, 2012
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Mar 3, 2014
#8
  • Mar 3, 2014
  • #8
JohnnyK81 said:
Very confused. You said it cranks.. If it cranks, it has nothing to do with heat soaking the starter?
Click to expand...
84Ttop said:
If its cranking then rule the starter and solenoid and associated wiring out. You may have a bad module Or something of that nature.
Click to expand...

Okay, so you believe that the ignition control module could be my issue? Would a bad coil or some other part of my ignition cause this?
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
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3,254
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Mar 3, 2014
#9
  • Mar 3, 2014
  • #9
Certainly could. @jrichker do you have a checklist for cranks but won't start?
 

GoldenEagle91

Active Member
Dec 25, 2012
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Mar 3, 2014
#10
  • Mar 3, 2014
  • #10
84Ttop said:
Certainly could. @jrichker do you have a checklist for cranks but won't start?
Click to expand...

To double check, are you saying that it could be a bad coil?
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
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Mar 3, 2014
#11
  • Mar 3, 2014
  • #11
Rather than just throwing parts at it, search for jrichkers checklist or hang tight till he responds to this thread.
 
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GoldenEagle91

Active Member
Dec 25, 2012
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Mar 3, 2014
#12
  • Mar 3, 2014
  • #12
84Ttop said:
Rather than just throwing parts at it, search for jrichkers checklist or hang tight till he responds to this thread.
Click to expand...

Will do. Thanks bud
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
1,094
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Phoenix
Mar 3, 2014
#13
  • Mar 3, 2014
  • #13
This is usually as simple as bad/corroded starter cables, especially the long-ass one that runs from the solenoid to the starter. Do a voltage-drop test and be prepared to be amazed at what's lost in translation.
 

GoldenEagle91

Active Member
Dec 25, 2012
240
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Mar 3, 2014
#14
  • Mar 3, 2014
  • #14
MFE92 said:
This is usually as simple as bad/corroded starter cables, especially the long-ass one that runs from the solenoid to the starter. Do a voltage-drop test and be prepared to be amazed at what's lost in translation.
Click to expand...

I am aware of the cable you are referring to but I am not sure what a voltage drop test is. Could you please elaborate?
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
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Mar 3, 2014
#15
  • Mar 3, 2014
  • #15
Here's some good resources. It can be a bit of a PITA to do it on a hot car, but it's really valuable diagnostic tool, and all you need is a basic digital voltmeter, and maybe a helper to trigger the circuit while you hold the leads and read the meter. Measure from battery terminal to cable terminal to see how sound the connection is. Then from cable terminal to cable terminal to see how sound the cable is. From cable terminal to solenoid terminal, and so on and so on. You're looking for voltage loss at every connection and between each end of every cable in question.

Voltage Drop Testing

How To Perform A Voltage Drop Test - Help With Automotive Circuit Diagnosis

Voltage Drop Testing - An Effective Method For Solving Automotive Electrical Faults
 

GoldenEagle91

Active Member
Dec 25, 2012
240
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Mar 4, 2014
#16
  • Mar 4, 2014
  • #16
MFE92 said:
Here's some good resources. It can be a bit of a PITA to do it on a hot car, but it's really valuable diagnostic tool, and all you need is a basic digital voltmeter, and maybe a helper to trigger the circuit while you hold the leads and read the meter. Measure from battery terminal to cable terminal to see how sound the connection is. Then from cable terminal to cable terminal to see how sound the cable is. From cable terminal to solenoid terminal, and so on and so on. You're looking for voltage loss at every connection and between each end of every cable in question.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thank you for the information. I will have to give this a try when I am home over spring break.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
8,016
1,613
194
NJ
Mar 4, 2014
#17
  • Mar 4, 2014
  • #17
When it cranks over but doesn't start is the starter struggling or is it full strength?
 

GoldenEagle91

Active Member
Dec 25, 2012
240
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Mar 4, 2014
#18
  • Mar 4, 2014
  • #18
2000xp8 said:
When it cranks over but doesn't start is the starter struggling or is it full strength?
Click to expand...

The starter is initially full strength but as it fights to start it gets weaker.
 

FourEyed

Active Member
Jan 9, 2011
93
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39
Mar 5, 2014
#19
  • Mar 5, 2014
  • #19
Are you getting fuel? a weak fuel pump will also cause a intermittent non start, specially when low on fuel.
 

GoldenEagle91

Active Member
Dec 25, 2012
240
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Mar 5, 2014
#20
  • Mar 5, 2014
  • #20
FourEyed said:
Are you getting fuel? a weak fuel pump will also cause a intermittent non start, specially when low on fuel.
Click to expand...

Thats a good question. It's carbureted and its a 79 so the mechanical fuel pump could be worn i suppose.
 
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