Starter wont Diss-engauge

MikeR351w

Founding Member
Oct 8, 2001
207
0
16
Wisconsin
Ok i got a 92 5.0 mustang. Out of nowhere the starter starts to hang up. It takes like 4 seconds after the car starts to diss-engauge. This might be due to the fact that the lower bolt was not fully tightened. Anyways i had a new bolt put in and it still did it. Then i put in a new starter today. Guess what, it still does it!! But now it takes like 2 seconds for it to diss-engauge. I had a shop check the ignition switch, and the solenoid, both are good. It it a coincidence or do I have another bad starter, or a bent flywheel. It makes NO other bad noises. Runs great after it starts up! PLEASE HELP!!!!! The shop said the would put in a new starter next week if it does not stop making the noise. Any suggestions??? I will be back to check on this thread later tonight! THanks!!!
 
Thank you for a response. If i have the wires on the CORRECT side of the starter relay but not in the correct order, for instance the yellow in front of the red instead of the red in front of the yellow , would that cause the 1-2 second delay???? Thanks again!!!
 
on your solenoid: one side (normally closest the firewall), there is a lug with a ton of connections. the other side has only one cable (starter cable).

so no, your order should not matter.

i would put a test light on the starter cable (the one all by its self) and have take the push on terminal off the solenoid and touch it to the battery lug (with all the stuff on it). this will start the car (be in neutral and be safe and all). once the car starts, you pull the little wire off the battery lug. once you do that, the test light should go out. if it stays illuminated, your solenoid is sticking. you may need to repeat this test if the problem is intermittant (or until you start the car and the starter hangs up).

if that test passes, then i would suspect that the starter is hung up, as you said. they really should be mounted squarely. also make sure the backlash is correct. that could add to difficulty disengaging.

good luck.
 
ok, when i first wanted to get the darn starter out, i removed the lower bolt. Then i went up top and removed the header to gain acess to the top bolt. Then i stripped the bold and got pissed off and tried for days with every trick i could think of. Then i put the lower bolt back in but only HALF way because it was super tough to get in. Then i had this shop do my exhaust and put a new lower bolt in. Thats when it got hung up longer. 3-4 seconds. Then i was like ok, i need a new starter. So they took it out, got a new one, put it in and she now hangs up for like 2 seconds. Then they said drive it for a while and see if it stops doing it. If so, then next week they will warrenty it. So i had another shop check the solenoid and they said it was good anlong with the ignition switch. So is my flywheel bent??? It does not make any bad noises.
 
im not the great starter expert, but i do think having the starter in there all the way and perfectly flush is important. think about it like your pumpkin gears - kinda the same idea. you cant just toss them in there w/o checkin backlash, etc.

but since the monkey is now on the shop, take that thing back and make them fix it until it is right. it should be right, from the get-go. there is no break in period, etc. it either works or it doesnt (unless in the meantime it wears something down).

many flywheels have ring gears that are separate (they can be pressed off, and a new one applied) - i dont know if stangs have the same set up. that is worst case. if the shop says something like that, ask if that is a "fix" or a "guess" - and get a second opinion if you are gonna be out of pocket. they probably wont want to fix it, since they are not making money on it.

good luck.
 
It's either your solenoid, or as a real outside shot, it could be your ignition. Basically, your ignition will send the signal to the solenoid to close the switch from the battery to the starter. The starter cranks as long as your key is in the start position. Once your car turns over, you move the key back to on which is supposed to open the signal to the solenoid telling it to open the circuit from the battery to the starter.

Thus, you have one of two things happening. Either the solenoid isn't opening the circuit (most common point of failure), or your ignition switch isn't telling the solenoid to open the circuit (bad ignition switch). Solenoids are relatively cheap. Buy one, and hope that's the culprit. Ignition switches are a PITA.
 
do you think i bent the flywheel or it is just another bad starter by coincidence??? A while back i was smacking the upper starter bolt with a hammer. Do you think i may have bent the bellhousing by a slight degree causing the slow hang up ???
 
i would not worry about having bent the bellhousing (unless you look like Popeye). they tend to break, not bend, im my experience.

for the solenoid hangin up, as GT rocks said, either do the test i said in my first post, or leave the test light connected in teh same fashion, but start it with the key (this way if the ignition is the culprit, it is tested). just different aspects of the circuit that are being tested.
good luck.
 
I really don't think a warped flywheel or bellhousing is going to cause the symptoms you are describing. Even if it was bent enough to hang up the starter, as soon as the starter spun the flywheel beyond the bent area, it would release. This wouldn't take but milliseconds and you wouldn't notice it. Those items are not easy to bend. You'd literally need a sledgehammer and be built like Hulk Hogan. Forgedaboudit.
 
i just got my flywheel checked by a tranny place and they said it looked fine and that I had a bad starter. So tomorrow i got to get a new one and hopefuly it will be fine. Thanks for all the help guys!!. Wonder what i am running in the quarter???
 
MikeR351w said:
i just got my flywheel checked by a tranny place and they said it looked fine and that I had a bad starter. So tomorrow i got to get a new one and hopefuly it will be fine. Thanks for all the help guys!!. Wonder what i am running in the quarter???
well, if i was in your shoes (literally) right now, i would guess about 1 minute 20 seconds (with good running shoes). once the car is fixed, i would expect much better times! :-)

J/K. good luck with it; im glad you got it figured out.
 
Bad news. The new starter does it too!!!! Now no one knows whats wrong. The only guess i have is that since my engine is a 92, that i may need a 91 starter since Ford changed starters in 92. Would that cause the noise?!?!?!? If this dont work, i am gonna sell the Engine/Trans, and drop in a 460 or 351.
 
Guess what, after 2 months it is still doing it. Luckily I only drive it 2 times a week or I would 5 times more pissed off. My engine was built in 8/91. Ford changed starters in 92. I may have a "92" engine even thought it was built in 91 or I may have a true 91 engine. In any case I had a 92 starter put on. What differences changed it these years??? Would a slight change in the starters mechanics cause the problem at hand????? PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
 
They are all interchangeable on the old vs the new mini starters. The different styles take a different wiring, but bolt to the block the same.

I just had a mini starter go out. The gear would never retract.

My suggestion is to exhange the unit for yet another one. You can get a bad one off the shelf!
 
Matt, thanks for the clarification. :)

i dont think your suggestion sounds too bad at all, at this point. Mike, as Matt said, be sure to have it [repeatedly] bench tested before you leave the store - ive gotten bad batteries and alternators before, right off the shelf, like Matt has - starters are an item i would have checked before leaving as well.

good luck.