Starting my T-5 swap, finally.

[65ShelbyClone]

If it's just a standard B&M short shifter(probably has a blue base) and not the Ripper, then the arm is not removable. I had one in an '89 GT and it was nice except for that. More expensive shifters like the Steeda Tri-Ax, Pro 5.0, Hurst, and of course B&M Ripper all have replaceable arms.

I plan on eventually doing a T5 or Tremec swap in my '68 and will probably use one of those shifters with a Hurst arm and knob to keep the more vintage look like it has now.

 

[bdepedro]

I believe that you are correct 65, the level does not seem like it's replaceable. I'll have to see how it is when the job is done but I'll probably get a Pro 5.0 and use the Hurst lever that I already have for a T-5. That way I can use the knob that I already have which has my line-loc switch in it. I was hoping not to spend more $ but you know how that goes.

 

[bdepedro]

Got back to working on the car today. Installed the starter, speedo cable and bolted the exhaust back up. I was able to do the trans swap without removing my headers which was a nice time saver. I even wired the backup light switch which before this I had hooked up to a toggle switch. I was bolting down the shifter but can't get to the forward 2 bolts as the shifter position has moved forward. So, off to HD to get some new cut-off wheels for the dremel so I can make the opening bigger.

 

[tx65coupe]

What shifter are you using w/ your T-5? The trans I bought came w/ a B&M short throw shifter, very nice but I need to lean forward to reach it. I was hoping I could just change the lever but it is very different than a Hurst style lever attachment and doesn't look like it would be doable. Might have to get a different shifter that either has a longer reach lever or one that I could bolt my Hurst lever to.

I'm using the classic style shifter that is like a reproduction of a 4 speed shifter that is made for a T5. I like it.

 

[PoppyMod]

Got back to working on the car today. Installed the starter, speedo cable and bolted the exhaust back up. I was able to do the trans swap without removing my headers which was a nice time saver. I even wired the backup light switch which before this I had hooked up to a toggle switch. I was bolting down the shifter but can't get to the forward 2 bolts as the shifter position has moved forward. So, off to HD to get some new cut-off wheels for the dremel so I can make the opening bigger.

Having to cut the opening, is why I opted for the "Slik-Stik" shifter kit offered by Modern. It is offset and sets the stick back 1". When installed, the stick emerges "dead" center of the opening, at least in my 64.5.
BTW, if you are running a factory console, you may find using the factory style boot a little too stiff and cramped in the opening. I wanted to use the factory boot, but, found it too stiff when in third gear and, thus, kept popping the shifter out of gear. In the end, I went with a leather boot.
Good Luck!

 

[bdepedro]

That sounds like a nice option from Modern. Had I known. I don't have a factory console and I totally rigged my Hurst boot as a temporary fix. I would like to use a nice leather boot but haven't started looking yet.

Good news is...I just got back from my checkout run and everything seems to be working fine. I see a little trans fluid dripping out of the tailshaft but I might have slightly overfilled it and hopefully when the level comes down to normal it will stop leaking. Not leaking bad but NO leaks is what I would like. The short throw shifter is SOOOO much tighter than my old factory shifter, WOW.

I would like to say "Thank You" to all the forum members who posted with advice/info during my project. It was a HUGE help! Once again, Stangnet is a lifesaver!! Thanks again!!!!

 

[bdepedro]

Well....live and learn. I had to loosen the bell housing bolts a little to adjust the block plate when I was installing the starter because there was only 1 alignment nub on the engine when I installed the new bell. I figured I could just use some of the bell housing bolts to align it and it worked pretty well. Except, I was told that those alignment nubs also carry alot of the stress between the engine and trans and that without 2 I run the risk of breaking bell housing bolts. I will plan on pulling the bell and putting another nub in but how concerned should I be in the meantime?

BTW, I check the old bellhousing and the other nub is in the bell.

 

[PoppyMod]

Well....live and learn. I had to loosen the bell housing bolts a little to adjust the block plate when I was installing the starter because there was only 1 alignment nub on the engine when I installed the new bell. I figured I could just use some of the bell housing bolts to align it and it worked pretty well. Except, I was told that those alignment nubs also carry alot of the stress between the engine and trans and that without 2 I run the risk of breaking bell housing bolts. I will plan on pulling the bell and putting another nub in but how concerned should I be in the meantime?

BTW, I check the old bellhousing and the other nub is in the bell.

In my mind I don't think you will have any future issues. What you may have going on there is torque. The bolts and studs carry a sheer load. If you really wanted exercise this just replace your grade bolts with grade 8. I think of those two studs as more for initial alignment purposes than for sheer strength, although they do add to it. However, having all of your bell bolts in place, you should be fine.
Happy Motoring!

 

[bdepedro]

Thanks Poppy. I didn't notice what grade the bell bolts are but I did notice that the "pin" whole goes straight through the bell housing so I loosened the bolts and tapped the pin in and just re-tightened the bolts. Easy! You may be right about the bolts being able to handle the shear force but now I feel a little easier at mind. Thanks again. Btw, going on my first out of town cruise tomorrow and can't wait to drop it in 5th and let the rpms drop!!!

 

[Wildbill3]

Im hoping to get our TKO 600 in this week also,great thread guys!

 

[PoppyMod]

Thanks Poppy. I didn't notice what grade the bell bolts are but I did notice that the "pin" whole goes straight through the bell housing so I loosened the bolts and tapped the pin in and just re-tightened the bolts. Easy! You may be right about the bolts being able to handle the shear force but now I feel a little easier at mind. Thanks again. Btw, going on my first out of town cruise tomorrow and can't wait to drop it in 5th and let the rpms drop!!!

With that T5, you'll have to learn how to down shift and work the clutch, all over again.
What rear are you running? Also, what 5th gear ratio? You will love 5th.
My 4th is like a passing gear. I'm running a 3.55 rear and .63 5th.
Very happy motoring

 

[65ShelbyClone]

With that T5, you'll have to learn how to down shift and work the clutch, all over again.

Why is that?

 

[68stang351]

With that T5, you'll have to learn how to down shift and work the clutch, all over again.

Not really, but you'll just have to do it at a lot different times. It will be a lot different, but in a good way! You're doing the right thing, just don't look back and don't think twice, you'll love it! Trust me!

Edit: Didn't realize I wasn't talking to the o.p., but my opinion still applies to him. It's free advice, so take it for what it's worth, but I wouldn't trade my T5 for anything (except of course a built dog tooth T5 or a tremec, but you get the point, I will always have a 5 speed!).

 

[bdepedro]

I'm running a t-5z w/ 0.63 5th and 3.50 rear gears. Not to worry, I already love it and I'm sure will even more when I drive 5 hrs away for our next event. It is different though. Clutch was a Centerforce Comp now Centerforce dual friction. Softer pedal feel. Still needs some adjustment after things break in a little. The shifter is very different. Went from a stock shifter w/ Hurst handle to a B&M short throw. MUCH tighter which is good. I need to get a different shifter that I can bolt a longer lever too though.

 

[PoppyMod]

Why is that?

Nothing bad, but based on your engine torque, you may only need 3rd, when previously you, you would have selected 2nd.
As far as "clutching", depending on your rear ratio, with respect to your 1st gear ration, this may cause you to adjust your RPMs needed to get away from a dead stop. Not racing, mind you, just everyday driving. For me, it was about 15-2000.
My Ratios are : 1st: 2.95; 2nd: 1.94; 3rd: 1.34; 4th: 1.00; 5th: .63
But then, these may be the same for you except for 5th.
Happy Motoring!

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I guess I've just been driving manuals for so long that the "retraining" part only takes about one trip through the gears, if that.

 

[bdepedro]

Poppy: I also have a T-5z so we have the same gear ratios. I wanted the z because it is similar to the wide ratio toploader I took out. I liked the gear ratios of the toploader, just needed one more. The biggest difference is the trans is much tighter (a good thing but just need to get used to it), also going from a worn stock shifter to a short throw. All good, just different.

On another note, I took the car to our local track on Sunday and ran a best of 9.27. Ok, so it is an 1/8 mile track, haha. I've done some circuit track before (not in the stang) but this was the first drag track I'd driven. Had a total blast, didn't break anything and learned a lot. We'll probably do another track day next year and I think some drag radials will be had by then. Had a difficult time getting traction w/ the crappy, rock hard street tires I have.