Starting problem

Haus · Feb 27, 2009

i posted this in my 41/91 code problem but decided it would be best to start a new thread.

ok this is what happened. Drove my car, parked at my house, got back in the car and went to start it back up and it wouldnt crank. just 1 click coming from the starter Solenoid.

so i did some stuff to try to get it to start.

i turned on the key, and tried to jump the bolts on the Solenoid. Nothing. no click either. just sparks

so i said F it, Closed the hood, at about 7 hours later want to see if it would start. Fired right up no problem. a nice healthy start. Turned it off, went to start it again and all i get is 1 click from the starter Solenoid.

Popped the hood and did the same things as earlier. all i get is sparks. no click. Nothing.

then i hit one of the bolts to a thing on the solenoid by accident. a metal boxy rectangle piece connected to it. thats when it clicked. but no turn over.

i just dont understand how it is running one minute, and wont start the next and later on its starts up fine and then it doesnt.

93 LX · Feb 28, 2009

check the battery cables for corrision

jrichker · Feb 28, 2009

No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs

Revised 30-Jan-2009 to reorder checklist and add cleaning procedure for connections.

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.
The battery posts and inside of the battery post terminals should be scraped clean with a knife or cleaner brush tool.

The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer. Anyplace you see green on a copper wire is corrosion. Corrosion gets in the clamped joint and works its way up the wire under the insulation. Avoid them like the plague...

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.

See Automotive Test Tools for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. .

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground down near the oil filter, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall. All grounds should be clean and shiny. Use some sandpaper to clean then up.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it cranks, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.

Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss &Stang&2birds

utoZone wiring diagrams

For 79-88 model Mustangs
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528004e28c

For 89-93 model Mustangs
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280069677

For 94-98 model Mustangs
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152801f5e3b

For 1999-2005 model Mustangs
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152801ef7d7

6.) Pull the starter and take it to AutoZone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.

Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang

Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.

Haus · Feb 28, 2009

what is this thing on the starter solenoid. its circled in the pic

jrichker · Feb 28, 2009

Haus said:
what is this thing on the starter solenoid. its circled in the pic

It is the circuit breaker for the power windows and door locks. See the diagram I posted for more information.

Haus · Feb 28, 2009

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.
The battery posts and inside of the battery post terminals should be scraped clean with a knife or cleaner brush tool.

No the car wont start when i try to jump it

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground down near the oil filter, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall. All grounds should be clean and shiny. Use some sandpaper to clean then up.

i cleaned up the ground to the engine block and the ground behind the Engine

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

i did that and it doesnt do anything. not even click. Just cause sparks

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it cranks, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

Did that and it doesnt crank, but it does Click

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.

Ignition switch is fine but have no idea where the NSS is.

and i cant really tell from the diagram. but what is supposed to be on the big screw. what wire. Not the one with the window/door lock and a bunch of others but the one standing at the driver side fender, looking down. the one on the left

HISSIN50 · Feb 28, 2009

Since you failed #3 above, the battery, battery cables, motor ground or starter are amongst the likely issues.

Haus · Feb 28, 2009

but why did i drive around for a while.i even shut off the car numerous times in that time i was driving cause i had places to go. but i turn off the car and then go to turn it back on again within a minute and it wouldnt start. just one click. i just dont understand what could of happened in that short of time. and then later in the night it started up fine, no problem, turned off the car and did the same 1 click thing.

the solenoid is fine im guessing since i got a new one and it dint fix the prblem.

just so i get this straight so i make sure i checked the right grounds. the ground to the firewall behind towards the driver side looks to be a braided ground???

the ground to the engine is the one by the oil filter or is it the battery ground.

the volts to my battery are at 12.4 Volts exactly. and is pretty much new. couple months on it.

and what wire goes to the part i circled in yellow. does it come from the starter??

C&SMustang · Feb 28, 2009

Check the connections at the alternator. My 89 GT had the same problem. One of the plugs at the alt. wasn't pushed in all the way. I had to replace the plug and alt.

HISSIN50 · Mar 1, 2009

Haus said:
but why did i drive around for a while.i even shut off the car numerous times in that time i was driving cause i had places to go. but i turn off the car and then go to turn it back on again within a minute and it wouldnt start. just one click. i just dont understand what could of happened in that short of time. and then later in the night it started up fine, no problem, turned off the car and did the same 1 click thing.....

Intermittant issues are a pain to track down. Something like a bad connection can cause issues just like yours.

Haus · Mar 1, 2009

just my luck. its snowing and supposed to get more. so ill have to wait but...

i guess ill check the connections every where like to the starter, alt, ect. check the grounds again and sand them to metal.

if not ill just get a new starter.

but i have a question i need an honest answer too.

with my 41/91 codes that were there for a while, i was checking the codes ALOT, disconnecting the battery, pumping the break and using the paper clip test. do you think that could of caused something.

my one friend had a problem like this in his 91 mustang. he was checking the codes and during the KOEO test he went to turn the key to do the Running test before the test was was completely done. i believe he said the test was about to end. it was working on the last 1..1. as soon as he want to turn the key all it did was click.

so with all my tests i may of turned the key to the KOER before the KOEO test was completely done. and may of dint go back to key off before went to KOER

Haus · Mar 1, 2009

im gonna take the starter out and get it tested. but for the life of me i can not get the top bolt out of the starter. i cant get up there good enough to get a good grip on it.

can i take the passenger side wheel off and get to it that way easier? this thing is a F'in Bitch to get off.

jrichker · Mar 1, 2009

The top bolt on the starter requires a 1/2" socket, universal joint or 1/2" universal joint socket and a 3" & 6" extension. You get at it from the front of the engine, passing the socket & extension under the header. Depending on the headers, it may take more or less extension length.

Haus · Mar 1, 2009

thank you. ill give it a shot once this eventual storm passes and the 14 inches of snow melts.

C&SMustang · Mar 1, 2009

jrichker said:
The top bolt on the starter requires a 1/2" socket, universal joint or 1/2" universal joint socket and a 3" & 6" extension. You get at it from the front of the engine, passing the socket & extension under the header. Depending on the headers, it may take more or less extension length.

You can also access the top bolt through a hole in the control arm assembly. A 1/2 inch socket, 3" extension, and a 3/8 drive ratchet are all that are needed.

HISSIN50 · Mar 1, 2009

C&SMustang said:
You can also access the top bolt through a hole in the control arm assembly. A 1/2 inch socket, 3" extension, and a 3/8 drive ratchet are all that are needed.

That's how I do it too.

Haus · Mar 8, 2009

that bolt is on there so tight. i think it got rounded. haha

Haus · Mar 8, 2009

well after days of sitting. i messed with the wire on the starter as best as i could. put back on the battery and it started fine back to back to back to back fine. let it sit for 2 mins and went back to a single click from the starter solenoid on the fender.

i dont understand how it starts after a while of sitting. if something is wrong i would think it wouldnt start at all instead of starting fine after sitting for a while and then back to not starting.

is it possible its getting heat soaked

Haus · Mar 11, 2009

ended up being a starter problem. i guess the starter has a solenoid on the starter aswell and that was bad. so new starter and runs good now.

thanks for all the help

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