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starting to research for parts...your ideas/info?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 65fastback2+2
  • Start date Start date Aug 28, 2006

65fastback2+2

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#1
  • Aug 28, 2006
  • #1
Im starting to reasearch how i want to build my new motor. Im needing some suggestions on how to do things and what parts to use. Heres the info of what im wanting:

Supercharged EFI 393 stroker on pump gas

just to give some other questions: what block? what kind of supercharger...pistons...heads...rods...etc. Should I go efi or go carb'd? If EFI what wiring kit, etc. And I want the setup to run on pump gas. Which i know adds more tinkering to the project.

thanks in advance.
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
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#2
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  • #2
Supercharged 393 E.F.I.!!!!!!??? Wow, that's at least a $15,000 engine! You would be putting out well over 600 h.p. and monster torque, so you would need the hi-dollar Dart block. Using e.f.i., I would go with the Kenne Bell Whipplecharger for instant torque off idle. Something like Edelbrock Victors for heads. Really, I'd be surprised if it could be done for under $20,000 if you're starting from scratch.
 

SoCalCruising

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All forged 393 long-rod kit from www.ADPerformance.com (Brian). Brian can help in getting pistons for compression of 8.5:1, or so. AFR 205s for (more or less) stock exhaust port position (225s are raised more and header fitment will be tougher), early 351 block, full roller using Crane link-bar rollers and standard roller cam (not reduced base circle cam), Mass-Flo EFI with blower hat, MEI roller rockers, Smith Bros pushrods. Get custom blower cam from FTI (Ed Curtis) or other good Ford guy. Anyway, that's how I would start thinking about a blown 393. If I were going to run more than 7-8 psi, I would upgrade the block to a Dart Sportsman, but I'm conservative that way. I would use a centrifugal blower for ease of fitment and rely on the cubes for off-idle power. Yeah, this won't be a cheap motor, if you build it strong, but the Mass-Flo will help a lot with cost as they are just $3K, maybe plus some extra for blower-sized injectors.
 

iskwezm

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#4
  • Aug 28, 2006
  • #4
buy yourself a built longblock and save yourself the headaches and get a warranty. $20,000 is on the high side IMO. I think Roush has 427 crate engine with 2/24,000 warrenty and puts out some damaging HP for around $12K, 550HP/535 TQ. I saw one get dynowed in a Cobra and it put down about 485 at the wheels
 

LMan

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Heh. All you are asking is the collective wisdom of about 1,000 experts

...you gotta give up some serious beer for that much info!

Otherwise, I'd suggest being more specific with your questions. "Tell me everything in the known universe" isn't the best way to start
 

65fastback2+2

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i was planning on 10k for the motor....I figured AFR 195 or 205 heads....Supercharger i was either figuring a roots or a psc1 procharger....i dont know jak about rods, cranks or pistons....is the block going to need a girdle or some sort of reinforcement...i know jak about what to get for the efi system....what year block? i wanna go roller...so would like a 1995 F250 roller 351 block work?

as for running gear im going with a 8.8" with a 3.73 trac lok and a viper spec T56 or tremec tko 600.
 

65fastback2+2

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or should i just get the roush 427 crate motor?
 

iskwezm

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#8
  • Aug 29, 2006
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65fastback2+2 said:
or should i just get the roush 427 crate motor?
Click to expand...
The 427 has all the good stuff including the Dart Block and is pre testeed and set up so you just drop it in and tear up the streets.Doesnt get any easier.

I went the other route, the first time, and let me put it this way, I have 2 complete engines now, because i bought parts over and my present combo,probably has more money into it then the Roush
 

LUCAFU1

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lol at $20,000
 

SoCalCruising

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#10
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The Crane link-bar lifters work with any block. The older blocks are stronger than the one you spec'd, but that later block would allow you to use conventional Ford lifters, spider and wishbone locators. The Crane link-bars are better. If you don't have engine building experience, at least get the short block (incl. damper, flywheel, cam and timing chain) from a pro. The rest isn't as demanding or require as many tools/measuring devices. Just make sure the supplier knows your application.

A World- or Dart-based 427 with a lumpy cam would be a lot of fun in a '67 coupe. I doubt you would miss the blower.
 

65fastback2+2

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but does the 427 bolt in or am i going to have to go hacking all over the place.
 

Max Power

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#12
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It's a windsor, it will fit in a 67 with no hacking. They came with 390s from the factory.
 

SoCalCruising

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Yup.
 

rbohm

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#14
  • Aug 30, 2006
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65fastback2+2 said:
Im starting to reasearch how i want to build my new motor. Im needing some suggestions on how to do things and what parts to use. Heres the info of what im wanting:

Supercharged EFI 393 stroker on pump gas

just to give some other questions: what block? what kind of supercharger...pistons...heads...rods...etc. Should I go efi or go carb'd? If EFI what wiring kit, etc. And I want the setup to run on pump gas. Which i know adds more tinkering to the project.

thanks in advance.
Click to expand...


first decide on how much boost you want to run. if you stay under 10psi, the you wont need a dart block.

forged pistons are a requirment in this combination though. i would also use a good set of aftermarket rods as well. eagle makes a good set of H beam rods. as for the crank, again forged is a requirement, and scat or eagle can help you here again. you will likely have to do some clearancing of the cylinder walls and pan rail for the crank and rod combination, so be prepared for that. as for using a stud girdle, that is a good idea, but dont expect it to turn your stock block into a dart strength block. it will raise the hp limit of the stock block some, and it will also help keep all the parts together when the block finally does split open.
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
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#15
  • Aug 30, 2006
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LUCAFU1 said:
lol at $20,000
Click to expand...

$12,000 for the Roush engine, 3-4,000 for a blower setup, a couple grand for e.f.i., then add the nickel and dime stuff and your at $20 grand. What's so hard to believe about that?
 

Max Power

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#16
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Don't forget that after spending $20k on the motor making 700hp, you will need subframe connectors, a tranny that can handle it, 35 spline axles, a roll bar of you want to take it to the track, etc etc etc....
 

65fastback2+2

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#17
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mustangdave said:
$12,000 for the Roush engine, 3-4,000 for a blower setup, a couple grand for e.f.i., then add the nickel and dime stuff and your at $20 grand. What's so hard to believe about that?
Click to expand...

either a blown 393 stroker


or the roush engine


not both together
 

65fastback2+2

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#18
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and ronstang talked me into less motor but more goodies like a/c....so i think imma scrap the idea for now....may do this when im in my mid 40's or something
 
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