Stator wire on 3G, Crimp AND solder inline connector? How?


Founding Member
Dec 2, 2000
Lehigh Acres Fla.
Yep, I know how to solder, and I KNOW how to crimp wire terminals. What I don't get, is how the hell you're physically supposed to crimp AND solder the inline butt terminal on the 2 stator wire ends. Well , that's what it says in the instructions for the 3G alternator. In order to do both, you would haave to be able to slide the inline terminal down one of the wires... you know.. get it onto the insulated part first. Then you would solder the two wires together, THEN slide the butt terminal down and crimp it. That would be possible IF the terminal were large enough. That tiny red connector is just large enough for the bare ends of the copper wire to enter halfway.

Cripes.. I love these how-to's.... they always have you do things that are impossible. Give me the right parts and I will...

****! whats the **** with these forum errors.. damn it...constantly man
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I would just solder it and call it good. Since you are proficient with both soldering and crimping, you can choose whichever you prefer (crimps can get wonky after enough NVH and heat cycles though).

You can also use the FFI regulator harness if you desire (it has the stator loop pre-fabbed as I recall).
I soldered and then heat shrank it.. Crimped on one of the ring terminals for the black/orange wire. I could not use the other black/orange wire. I was BARELY able to get both the 4 gauge power wire terminal AND one of those black/orange wires on to the alt. It said to use both, but the second would not fit, so I capped it off. You have no idea how hard it was to get both of those wires back there.

Sorry, I was hell frustrated yesterday. Having a rear sway bar that cant be used just kicked me . And this just made me want to rant.
I would not have connected either of the stock charge wires (blk/or) to the 3G.
The circuit protection for those was iffy to begin with (sometimes the wiring caught on fire with a 2G). If your new 4 gauge charge cable blows it's fuse or has some other issue, all that power will try to go through the stock wiring. If the fusible links don't blow fast enough................
According to PA Performance, they dont recommend the 4 ga wire be use soley as a replacement. Personally, I think it would be good enough. After all, the power wire on my 3.8 is smaller (8 ga I think). I just connected the old wires because PA says using the 4 ga alone could void warranty if the alt got damaged. Do you think I should just pull the black/orange wire off and cap it?

Thanks again for the help.... as aannoying as my threads can be sometimes :p
Cut the factory plug, tape up or heat shrink the 2 10G wires out of the way and do NOT connect them. Splice in the stator wire or crimp a female connector onto it and plug it in.
I would email the company asking for the reason for this recommendation, and for not covering a warranty issue if the stock wiring is not piggybacked.

The stock wiring on a SN95 3G is 6 AWG as I recall.