mrvax said:I had the reflash done by T&J (not the steeda program), but one they are working on developing themselves. The timing advance provided some low-end grunt, but I lost 11rwhp and 11tk. I had them rework my a/f which was over 14:1, very lean. Now it's too rich, about 11.5:1 at peak. Have to get it a bit leaner.
DeadLurker said:did ya send the computer back yet?
mrvax said:No, I emailed Tim for advice. Haven't heard from him yet. It's almost impossible for me to go several days without my car. I have some logistical issues to figure out. Maybe Tim will send me his new programmer and an instruction manual ???
DeadLurker said:I should have done it along time ago but I finally decided to buy a spare computer which i'm currently using while my other computer goes back to T&J.
mrvax said:That's a great idea.
#1: How much $$$
#2: How did you get around the PATS? Have Tim turn it off?
mrvax said:Not bad! Maybe I should get one. I'd have to first send the spare to Tim, disable PATS and then have him send that to me, then rip out my original, send it to Tim, have him tweek it, send it to me, sign up again for Dyno Day, get a few runs....
gtrackd02 said:Sorry to come in somewhat off topic, but with the a/f ratio, what is good?
When I had my car tuned, it stayed around 12.4-12.6 the whole time.....
I'm not sure about how the numbers work..I know higher means leaner, lower is richer...
Where is the happy medium?
Cool.. thanks alot.. so I'm good with mine.... safe...lol.. If there is such a thing... Later guys thanks for the info...mrvax said:Ideal for a N/A car is 13:1 across the board.
S/C cars need to get richer as they increase RPMs. Usually around 11:1 at the top.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?