Steeda x2 ball joint

crzyhrse99

crzyhrse99

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
259
3
28
Kansas
#1
My pass side ball joint is bad and im wondering if the steeda ball joints are worth the money, or should i just replace an oem ball joint. The steeda's are $150 per set and i have searched and read that you can expect another 1/2 " drop from them? Is this true, because i could use that extra drop for my sagging ass eibach springs. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with the x2 good or bad.
 
#4
I just insalled mine last night and got the alignment today. They are fine. How great can a ball joint be. Install was simple if you have the correct tools. I borrowed them from advanced auto parts. If you do it yourself just make sure the boot is still attached before you put the wheel back on. Mine came off and reattaching it to the correct spot on the ball joint was the hardest part of the install.

Oh and you will need an impact wrench or a breaker bar and 15/16 socket.

I don't think they are suppose to lower the car any. I didn't use the spacers that come with it, maybe that is what he ment. You have the option to use a spacer (which will raise the car approx 1/2" according to the instructions).

This is with ford c springs, BBK isolators, and x'2s( no spacer). snet1.webp
 
#5
UDT - lower control arm ball joint

black 96 - i had my car aligned about 2 months ago after installing shocks/struts and about a week and a half ago i have been hearing a slight roaring in the front end. Took it to the shop and the tech told me that one of my ball joints are bad and that it is "cupping" my tires. He tryed to show me what he is talking about, but i was like a deer in headlights.

Anyway, been checking around for ball joints and did a search on SN and thats how i came up with guys saying that they got 1/2 " drop from the x2's, not saying its true or not because i have no clue, but it would be nice in my situation.

keep em coming!
 
#7
They lowered my front about half an inch. I intended to use the spacers, but the spring just wouldn't seat with them on there. We decided to not install them, no big deal.

The install went smooth, no snags.
 
#8
I had the same issue with the spring not seatting. I did it myself and I was not comforable with the way the spring was barely in the isolator. It probably would of went in farther if I loaded it more but I didn't want it to come out so I just left the space out. Here is a pic of the total drop.

attachment.php


Maybe they do lower the car a little more.
"Spacers for the springs are included in
the X2 kit to maintain the same ride height as a stock balljoint, but with
a much improved roll center height." From Steeda so I guess it would lower it. :bang:

Attention to detail.
 
#9
I have the FRPP extended ball joints on my car. They are the exact same thing as the X2s, except about $70 cheaper... they even come with the grease fittings so you can keep them lubed. I installed the metal rings and they kept the front end from dropping an additional 1/2". I'd had the ball joints in for over a year w/ no problems.

You can't go wrong with the either the Steeda or FRPP offerings, but if you want to spend a little less money for the same thing, go FRPP. Here's a link to them if you want to take a look...
FRPP balljoints @ Gefracing.com

And no matter what anyone tells you, installing extended ball joints is no harder than putting in OEM replacements. Good luck! :nice:
 
#12
stangGT97 said:
And no matter what anyone tells you, installing extended ball joints is no harder than putting in OEM replacements. Good luck! :nice:
Click to expand...

Did you do them yourself? If so, did you use the big C-clamp press tool (that one can rent from an auto parts store)? Reason I ask is because mine are shot and I need to go ahead and replace em'....
 
#13
DTNODYA said:
Did you do them yourself? If so, did you use the big C-clamp press tool (that one can rent from an auto parts store)? Reason I ask is because mine are shot and I need to go ahead and replace em'....
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I used... plus a 1/2" drive and miscellaneous sockets for removing the struts, brake assembly, etc. If you end up putting in the metal isolator rings to maintain your ride height, you may want to look into renting a spring compressor, I struggled to get the springs down low enough to put the rings in, bc my compressor didnt work. Oh, when removing the ball joints... make sure you're pressing them up out of the control arm, not pressing them back in thinking they will come out the bottom like I was doing :bang: :bang:
 
#14
I used the big C clamp and 1/2" drive also. Just follow the directions with the kit and all will be good. It is really easy. If you don't have an impact wrench get a 24" breaker bar to loosen the nut holding the spindel onto the ball joint, and a ball joint seperator (fork). I tried to use a puller but that wouldn't work. Mine were 10 years old so they were on there tight. It is super easy if you can read and follow directions.
 
#16
stangGT97 said:
That is exactly what I used... plus a 1/2" drive and miscellaneous sockets for removing the struts, brake assembly, etc. If you end up putting in the metal isolator rings to maintain your ride height, you may want to look into renting a spring compressor, I struggled to get the springs down low enough to put the rings in, bc my compressor didnt work. Oh, when removing the ball joints... make sure you're pressing them up out of the control arm, not pressing them back in thinking they will come out the bottom like I was doing :bang: :bang:
Click to expand...

And

black_96_GT said:
I used the big C clamp and 1/2" drive also. Just follow the directions with the kit and all will be good. It is really easy. If you don't have an impact wrench get a 24" breaker bar to loosen the nut holding the spindel onto the ball joint, and a ball joint seperator (fork). I tried to use a puller but that wouldn't work. Mine were 10 years old so they were on there tight. It is super easy if you can read and follow directions.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Did you have to take the control arm off? I just got doing my trucks' and I did them with the arms on ... My Mustang is obviously a lot lower but I would think it has to be easier than my 4X4!!! (PITA!)
 
#17
I left the control arms on. Like I said, if you have a spring compressor that will make installing the isolators easier, but other than that, you just need to be careful not to put tension on the brake line when you remove the brake assembly from the spindle. I put my brakes up on milk crates to they kept slack on the lines.
 
#20
When a Mustang is lowered,the front roll center changes due to the new
position of the suspension pivot points.Lower the car too much and the
front roll center drops too well below ground level,and worse than that,
the roll center moves from side to side as the body rolls,resulting in lost
of grip and erratic handling.The lower roll center causes the body to roll
more easily.Countering this tendency usually requires a significant increase
in front spring rate to simply control the added roll due to the lowered the
roll center.This higher spring rate not only hurts your ride quality,but it also
reduces grip on rough surfaces,as the stiffer springs cause the tire to skip
over any bumps instead of following the contours of the road.The X2 balljoint
was designed to eliminate these issues by correcting the front roll center
geometry.The X2 balljoint has a longer shaft,to raise the spindle relative to
the balljoint pivot point.Spacers for the springs are included in the X2 balljoint
kit to maintain the same ride height as a stock balljoint,but with a much improved roll center height.Wit the roll center restored to the proper height,
smaller front swaybars and softer springs can be used.The result is a suspension that works for you to accommodate the small and the large imperfections that are in any road,freeway,or track.allowing the tires to stay
planted on the ground where they belong.
 
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