Steering grabs/pulls hard after 3/4 of a turn

[MustangLX-5.0]

About half to 3/4 of a turn of the wheel,it'll start grabbing hard.Meaning I have to hold the wheel much harder than normal or it'll pull itself hard towards the stop.It does this while making a right or a left.I just replaced my steering rack last night.But it has been doing this even well before.It's just much more noticeable now.I damaged my inner tie-rods on a couple of potholes and a speedbump.I just want to know what else is busted down there.The ball joints are fine btw.

Could this be a strut problem? What else would cause the steering to start pulling the wheel hard in a turn? (slow turn)

Sway bar bushings are fine.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

Sounds like it'd be more likely to be a toe-in problem, especially since you were working on the tie rods. The pot holes could have knocked your struts out of alignment though, too. If you don't have enough positive caster, I could see it wanting to dart around once the wheel is turned, since it won't have the "desire" to try to center itself.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

The pass side toe-in is off a pinch to the left.I knew it was off,I just have to set it again today.I ddidn't think toe would cause pulling on a sharp turn.

If it were caster,how do you adjust that? Is it even adjustable?

Yes I know it needs an alignment.But I'm not doing that till I get the new struts in,currently sitting in my car and waiting for strut tower bushings.I'm not worried about the front tires right now.They are used tires I pulled off the rack at work and they're already chewed up.I can get another set anytime.Just can't afford new ones.

Thanks for the rep.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

Update - Adjusted pass side outer tie-rod.Steering is allmost dead on now.One turn out on the drivers side should take care of it for now.Also tightened up pass side caliper mounting boltsThe whole ass'y was rattling around (that's just real good....)

Wheels are much straighter now.I think I can rule out the toe-in as the cause of this problem.I've had much worse toe-in problems than this in the past and this "pulling" never even sneaked around.The adjustments didn't change anything.It still grabs.I notice it grabs more when one of the sides is on uneven ground (eg turning into my driveway,it's on a slight hill upwards.Making a right into my driveway,as the wheels start hitting the slope,it starts grabbing a LOT more).So this is a leveling or load issue with the strut..or something else.I don't know.If I'm turning a corner (say turning around in circles inside a parking lot),if I hit my brakes mildly through the turn,it causes it to "pull" the steering more.

It sounds like the tires in the front skip or tilt hard right when it starts doing this.I can hear it scuff the pavement for a second.

One other note.It doesn't grab or pull when I'm turning while in reverse.

 

[saleener94]

I had a similar problem with my eclipse. My stering wheel would go off to the right. I checked all that suspension stuff and it turned out to be a big bulge on the left side tire. replaced tire, problem fixed. I don't know if it would have the same effect on a RWD but you should check both tires from the inside really good.

 

[maypo59]

I don't know about the doing it all the time, but the fact that its worse when you hit the incline into your driveway sounds like bump steer. Are you lowered? How much? what did you do to offset the lowerings impact on geometry?

Bump Steer, bump steering - FAQ, FFR FAQ

I had some off this when I first lowered mine, bump steer kit fixed it.

 

[HISSIN50]

The alignment needs to be dialed before you can try to figure out suspension anomalies, especially with as many variables as you have going on.

Most alignments have a warranty period, which could give you some fudge factor.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

Yes,that's exactly what's going on.It's steering itself.I noted that it doesn't do this in reverse,well it does.If I'm allready into the turn and it starts pulling and I stop and start backing up without touching the wheel,it starts pulling the wheel back about 1/4 of a turn.It wont catch the pull unless the steering wheel is at a certain point.

No it's not lowered.It's all stock except for a strut tower brace and urethane sway bar/link bushings.Both have been on the car about 6 months.

I also notice the rubber bushing on the drivers side upper strut mount is ripped pretty bad....umm..yeah.That one was my fault.Happened when I tried to remove the strut rod nut but I didn't think it tore that bad.Would this bushing being ripped cause it?

I've got 2 new struts (just slightly better than factory) allmost ready to go in.Need new bushings.

The only suspension parts that were ever changed on this car since I owned it (9 years) are.. steering rack (twice) ,pass side outer tie-rod,rear springs (6 months ago and only slightly better than stock)..sway bar bushings....and new stock struts 7 years ago.

I'm not going to screw around with the alignment untill I get the struts in.The ride is too jiggly and harsh....bumps in the road knock the car around (slightly) and makes steering temporarilly more difficult sometimes.Just a general overview of how the ride has been.

I'm looking for other tires.I currently am riding on a set of 07 GT 17" rims (5 hole pony center cap).Also using 1/4" wheel spacers because the drivers side keeps hitting the sway bar (still is).The tires currently on are not matched.The fronts are but the backs aren't.Same size but 2 different brands.I get what I can find used.New tires are out of my budget lately.

It's probably just getting old.Not fun to drive like it used to be.

 

[Chythar]

Sounds like it's time to upgrade the front suspension. You can buy the 2003 Cobra front control arms for ~$160, you get new ball joints and bushings and supposedly a bit more turning radius out of it. Combined with your new struts and strut bushings, you'll have most of the suspension replaced. You can buy new ball joints and bushings for your current control arms, but the labor and parts will run you about $160 anyway.

There's a rag joint under the dash where the steering shaft hooks up, make sure that bolt is tight. Same with the bolt holding the steering shaft to the rack. If one or both is loose, you'll have play in your steering wheel.

There are bushings holding the steering rack to the car, were those ever replaced? If not, they're old enough now that they'll allow the rack to move instead of moving the wheels.

You can get your suspension back to new, but it will take some $$$$ and some time. But the results are well worth it.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

The ball joints and control arms are out of the question for now.If the ball joints are bad it'll have to wait.I checked them twice and their is no play,no looseness.The bushings are probably worn.I know those are a royal PITA to get out.Haynes maual even says they can't be removed as they are part of the control arm.

Anyways I don't have the time (or $$$) to get to those now.I only have one car available.The other has tons of work still.

And as I noted,I just got done replacing the steering rack.The bushings,bolts & sleeves I replaced a year ago and they were still very good (very tight fit).

And I should probably note that this is a V6.Yeah I know there's the V6 forums for that.Those are mostly dead and I knew where most of the experts lurked. (Just a message to the mods in case someone gets all uptight about it

Thanks for all the suggestions.I'll look into the bumpsteer kit if need be ..that is if replacing a couple struts and some bushings dont fix it.It's not a HUGE problem.Just the annoying ride is..

Is there some kind of sticky for suspension problems here? If not then there should be. Something like "Suspension and steering checklist" .Just a thought for future reference.

 

[HISSIN50]

Suspension and handling issues often have more than one factor or issue, which makes a flow-chart type diagnostic tool invalid.

If you're anywhere near stock ride height, you dont have bump steer. Your alignment being off is likely what is causing the inconsistencies.

An issue with BJ's is that they stop pivoting on the shaft's longitudinal axis decently. If the suspension [tie rod, end link, etc] are disconnected from the LCA, one sees if the spindle can rotate smoothly through its range of motion.

I dont know how you're doing your home alignments but I would atleast go get a 'free alignment check' from a shop that gives them. Then you'll know which wheel is off and by how much.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

I wouldn't really call it a home alignment.I just wanted to know how the caster is adjusted.And I as only adjusting the tierod for toe-in after my steering rack install.I work at a Ford dealership in the shop.I can always run it onto the alignment rack.Just as soon as someone here (at work) shows me how to use the thing.

But like I said,I'm not touching the alignment till I get the strut/bushings installed.ASAI get bushings.

The ball joints seem fine.I checked them while I had it on a lift.The wheels turned smoothly.The wheels did not pull in or out from the top and bottom.There was no movement in that direction.Whatever is causing it, it only shows itself when the wheels are under load which makes me think it's the struts or strut tower bushings (torn one especially).It no longer makes any unusual noises since I replaced the rack.Just a slight rubbing noise when I turn the wheel sitting still.Again,suspecting the strut bushing.

I just wanted to check with all you at SN to get a little more insight on what could be going on.Thanks to everyone that helped Chythar....StangGT1995,HISSIN50...maypo59,tthanks for the bumpsteer article.Appreciate the help.I'll let you know what comes up after my struts go in come later next week.

 

[maypo59]

Sorry.. meant to say on earlier post..

Caster is the relation of the TOP of the strut to the verticle axis of the wheel centerline. It is adjusted by moving the top of the strut forward and backwards. (in relation to the front and rear of the car) positive is forward of the center line, negative is behind. The more negative caster you have, the more the car will turn in, because it increases the ackerman effect. Good for SCCA cars, not as good for street cars. Our cars run a few degrees negative normally.

On the stock suspension, your caster is locked in with a rivet or two to hold the mounting plate in place. Thats ONE of the things that becomes adjustable with a caster/camber plate.. in general it doesn't need to be adjusted unless you lower and change struts, if using the stock mounting plate, the procedure is to drill/grind the rivets, adjust, re-lock in place with new rivets.

Camber is the relation of the center line of the tire to verticle or square to the ground. It is adjusted by moving the top of the strut in and out left to right as thought of from the front to back of car scenerio above. For lack of a better way to put it, your tire should appear to lean in at the top, about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch is close to a solid starting point on our cars.

You got toe in down, although I don't know how (what method) you are checking it. If you bungie a 36" straight edge to both front tires, then adjust your tie rod ends until a measurment taken in front of the tires and behind is exactly the same, you have zero toe. If measuring right by the tire it's harder to see the difference, go out about 8"(but always measure in the same spots) it will be easier to see. then give equal adjustments to your tie rod ends to get about 1/16 to 1/8 toe in. should only be like 1/2 a turn each side if I remember right.

good luck.