Steering grabs/pulls hard after 3/4 of a turn

Suspension and handling issues often have more than one factor or issue, which makes a flow-chart type diagnostic tool invalid.

If you're anywhere near stock ride height, you dont have bump steer. Your alignment being off is likely what is causing the inconsistencies.

An issue with BJ's is that they stop pivoting on the shaft's longitudinal axis decently. If the suspension [tie rod, end link, etc] are disconnected from the LCA, one sees if the spindle can rotate smoothly through its range of motion.

I dont know how you're doing your home alignments but I would atleast go get a 'free alignment check' from a shop that gives them. Then you'll know which wheel is off and by how much.

Sorry.. meant to say on earlier post..

Caster is the relation of the TOP of the strut to the verticle axis of the wheel centerline. It is adjusted by moving the top of the strut forward and backwards. (in relation to the front and rear of the car) positive is forward of the center line, negative is behind. The more negative caster you have, the more the car will turn in, because it increases the ackerman effect. Good for SCCA cars, not as good for street cars. Our cars run a few degrees negative normally.

On the stock suspension, your caster is locked in with a rivet or two to hold the mounting plate in place. Thats ONE of the things that becomes adjustable with a caster/camber plate.. in general it doesn't need to be adjusted unless you lower and change struts, if using the stock mounting plate, the procedure is to drill/grind the rivets, adjust, re-lock in place with new rivets.

Camber is the relation of the center line of the tire to verticle or square to the ground. It is adjusted by moving the top of the strut in and out left to right as thought of from the front to back of car scenerio above. For lack of a better way to put it, your tire should appear to lean in at the top, about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch is close to a solid starting point on our cars.

You got toe in down, although I don't know how (what method) you are checking it. If you bungie a 36" straight edge to both front tires, then adjust your tie rod ends until a measurment taken in front of the tires and behind is exactly the same, you have zero toe. If measuring right by the tire it's harder to see the difference, go out about 8"(but always measure in the same spots) it will be easier to see. then give equal adjustments to your tie rod ends to get about 1/16 to 1/8 toe in. should only be like 1/2 a turn each side if I remember right.

good luck.