Steering rack bushings

Best thing I can tell you is to use some white lithium grease and a rubber mallet to help smooth the install into rack. To ease installation under car, I pulled the 2 sleeves out from the k-member. You hold the rack up and then drive the sleeves back through the rack and into the k-member. Book says torque nuts to 42-62 ft lbs. Oh and the bushing holes should be turned towards the bottom of the rack. Should only take an hour, 2 tops.
 
I put on the non-offset.

Pulled the bolt from the steering rack undid the two long bolts holding the rack on and slid it off, yanking the rubber bushings out (they practically fell out).

Greased them up like said above. Then put the back bushing in the rack and rubber mallett'd the rack on. Put the front bushing on and rubber mallet'd it on enough to get the bolt connected up and used the bolt to drive it home.

Took 30mins tops including jacking the car up.

It's cool to have a helper to hold the rack and help line you up.

Made a noticeable different on my car, thanks to JT for the recommendation.

Wes
 
One more bit of advice. If you decide to remove the tie rods from the knuckle, after removing the cotter pin and the castle nut, a well known method I have used if quite literally to take a hammer (steel) and hit the knuckle on the area where the taper of the tie rod fastener is at. This method will work on any vehicle with a taper joint that you have stuck in the hole. Just continue hitting the knuckle right where the taper is and it will eventually just fall down and drop on its on. AMAZING! You never have to even touch the threads on the ends.