Stick/Manual Issues....
- Thread starter PuppyDawg
- Start date
The clutch isn't disengaging completely. Time to adjust it or if it isn't adjustable, replace it with a new quadrant and cable setup that is adjustable. I have aFMS cable & quadrant, and it works fine. If you buy a cable & quadrant, and maybe a firewall adjuster, make sure that all the parts come from the same manufacturer. That way you know that they all work together.
jrichker said:
Good deal
the pup appreciates it....now i remember this kid saying he puchased (and installed) a double hook quadrant from Steeda in this....do i have to purchase everything else (clutch cable, and firewall adjuster) from Steeda too? Also .....is this easy to install? Adjust? just curious....thanks man!
do you have the oem quadrant? if so, try pulling up on the pedal. since you are not disengaging all the way, you have too much slack in the cable. this might help, for now.
no matter, i would follow JR's sound advice. a matched set is nice (UPR might be cheaper for a set, if price is of concern). however, many run a quadrant of their choice, and stock cable (aftermarket cables, in general, are not as well liked), and a FWA. (no FWA needed if goin with an adjustable cable - they have an adjuster at the clutch fork).
getting the OEM quadrant out can be hard. the plastic pawl does not like to come out. the correct way to do it is to lower the column - no one does, so they have to cut the pawl out.
BTW, JR knows a lot more about this stuff than i do, so if he disagrees with me, go with his advice.
good luck.
no matter, i would follow JR's sound advice. a matched set is nice (UPR might be cheaper for a set, if price is of concern). however, many run a quadrant of their choice, and stock cable (aftermarket cables, in general, are not as well liked), and a FWA. (no FWA needed if goin with an adjustable cable - they have an adjuster at the clutch fork).
getting the OEM quadrant out can be hard. the plastic pawl does not like to come out. the correct way to do it is to lower the column - no one does, so they have to cut the pawl out.
BTW, JR knows a lot more about this stuff than i do, so if he disagrees with me, go with his advice.
good luck.
I had the same problem. When I got my stock quadrant out (PITA) I found it was on the last bit of adjustment and that last tooth had worn out, the cable was all crappy as well. It was so bad I hardly could shift. I went ahead and did it all at once, clutch, quadrant, FWA, adj cable, never looked back.
Good stuff, shifting is very important. I would say just the quadrant, cable, and FWA would do the trick.
90_Red_LX
Member
At what mileage did this start occurring? Myn started after I put my pro 5.0 in. But I think it was starting to get a little soft before I put it in.
seems to differ. putting a HD clutch set up in will speed up the demise of the plastic quadrant. the shifter should have nothing to do with the clutch performance, BTW.90_Red_LX said:
i know of guys with almost 200K with the stock quadrant, but that is rare.
Best of luck with the shifter. Two other things I wanted to bring up that can cause the same symptoms though. A bent clutch fork or worn synchro gears in the tranny. In my case it was the synchro gears. I ended up switching to a World Class T-5 with Kevlar synchros. That said, you can't go wrong with an adustable quadrant. I still have the stock quadrant in mine due only to my laziness in changing it out.
trbkrb
Founding Member
I see in your sig and as you mentioned, if you think you already have a Steeda quadrant instaled, then it has to have an adjustable cable or a firewall adjuster in order to work right. Otherwise he would never have been able to adjust it right in the first place. Before you go buy anything, I would look under the dash right above the accelerator and make sure it has the aluminum quadrant, not the stock plastic part. Then look under the car inside the cover on the tranny where the cable goes to see if it is an adjustable cable. If so, it may just need to be adjusted a bit.
Good luck!
Good luck!
90_Red_LX
Member
Daggar said:
Probably synchros. I used to think if ya got the stop bolts finger tight, that would be just fine. Well I found out the hard way when I had to drive to school in 2nd and 4th gear. Probably wore out the synchros till I figured out that you had to tighten the piss out of em (which I did)
