Still have a starting issue! HELP!

tbi92rs

New Member
Sep 2, 2005
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Louisville, KY
OK, just installed the rest of my new parts since I dropped the new motor in last month and it STILL doesnt start. I turn the key and no Click from the solenoid. Fuel Pump comes on and theres ample power to the electrical systme (just had battery recharged/tested a week ago and just re-installed it) I have replaced...

Key/lock tumbler
Ignition switch
Starter Relay/solenoid

I have also "jumped" the clutch interlock switch and still nothing. I also hot wired the switch on top of my t-5 (referred to as a neutral safety switch, its mainly for cruise control). Still nothing.

whats the issue here??? I checked all fuses in the fuse box, all good. reconnected all wiring and gorunded to block. I need Help here guys, this is the last thing I need to fix/finish up (besides Nitrous wiring :D) to fire it up, tune and drive it since the new motor install and all bolt ons added. thanks!
 
Here's a checklist:

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help
fig-7.gif


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
 
tbi92rs said:
I have also "jumped" the clutch interlock switch and still nothing. I also hot wired the switch on top of my t-5 (referred to as a neutral safety switch, its mainly for cruise control). Still nothing.
JR's advice should set you straight.

I do want to make one point, so as to not overlook a possible issue.
The CC switch and starter interlock switch are different (there are two). So you might not have jumped the right one.

Good luck.
 
OK, the car WILL start if you jump the S-terminal (top small post that little red wire pushes onto) and jumped over to the post the positive cable connects to.

I have BOTH the CC switch and the clutch safety switch jumped right now and nothing. Im stumped. Starter works ifne and the solenoid/key/new ignition switch are all fine....just no power through the red wire.
 
So you have cranking power to the crank wire at the ignition switch (it is like a white/pink wire or something like that)? And you have that power making it to the clutch switch? Or it is lost in between?
 
tbi92rs said:
i only tested it to the little wire that goes to the solenoid and no power when the key is turned over......so somewhere its getting broken up.
So now I am confused. At what exact points have you checked for continuity? If you dont have a signal reaching the starter solenoid, you need to go backwards (clutch switch is the next place I would look).

If you dont have continuity at the ignition switch itself, I would closely examine the switch.

Good luck.
 
There is power to the ignition switch. the lights/beeper/fuel pump and all normal things come on. You turn it to run and nothing, no click from the solenoid or anything. I have the wires from the clutch switch "jumped with a jumper wire on each one.

Where can you buy a new clutch switch at? It started just fine beforeI pulled the motor and now that its all back in, nothing. I checked the fusible link by the solenoid and its good.

Ive been thinking it was the clutch switch too but it was all of a sudden...as in, i started it up, pulled it into the garage, turned it off, took the battery out, pulled the motor, cleaned the engine bay out with some degreaser outside the garage and then pushed it back in. I dropped the motor back in it/reconnected everything about a month to month and a half later and have been troubleshooting it the last 2-3 weeks and its confusing as hell!!! any help will help me out.

And as for testing, I had my roommate turn the key over and when I had my multimeter on it, it showed NO power oging to that little wire/s-terminal wire.
 
Nice pic JR!

Since you say you have the CSS bypassed, a new one wont help (bypass means it is not used anymore). LRS should have them (and they are relatively cheap IIRC). I DO recommend having it functional.

As said, put a test light on the input wire to the clutch switch while cranking to see if you have 12 volts. If you do, check the output (other side of the jumper you installed) to make sure the jumper did not go bad.

If no 12 volts at the input to the CSS, go to the ignition switch itself and check out the white and pink wire.

Good luck.
 
well when i say "bypassed" im not sure I did it correctly. I simply pulled the 2 plugs out and jumped the terminals in EACH plug, not over to each other....so i doubt i even did it right the more I think about it.

Do you think somewherel ike O'Reilly's or NAPA would sell this piece? A dealership sell it? any ideao n pricing? thanks.
 
OK, I found something odd that my roommate noticed last night while i was working on the car. jumped the clutch switch, still nothing. car starts and runs by arcing the Power terminal and S-terminal.

Turn the key to the ON position, shifter in Neutral.......the Reverse lights are on. No matter what gear, they stay on. Car wont start off the key still (sure does off the solenoid though :D)....

I unplugged the side connecter on my T-5 and the reverse lights go out....Whats the deal here, could this be my problem or am I just out in left field with this guess? If so, how do I fix it? Thanks guys.