Still having idle troubles

SCORPIO72

New Member
Aug 29, 2009
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ILLINOIS
To anyone who can answer this. i am still having idle troubles with my 5.0. i have done everthing i can as far as the surging idle checklist goes. my car is missing several things. i need to know what can be eliminated and car still run fine. pretty much all the emission mechanicals and sensors are not on the car. i was told it dont need them, is this true? the only emissions part thats on it is the egr valve, with the 3 wire plug in to it and no vaccum line.


with the car running i can adjust idle screw and tps and car runs fine at about 1000 rpms and when you romp the throttle she lets ya know shes alive. but when turn key off and restart im right back to square one with idle troubles.


i have tryed running self test but when i hook up light nothing happens. check eningine light only comes on when you try to start car. no blinks no nothing with self test with engine light or test light?



i know this is cluddered here and several questions at once but really hope someone can get me going?


thanks to all who may reply......
 
i have tryed running self test but when i hook up light nothing happens. check eningine light only comes on when you try to start car. no blinks no nothing with self test with engine light or test light?


thanks to all who may reply......



My opinion, the above bold needs to checked out first. You can try all the surging idle stuff in the world, but if the ECM is correcting for a certain fault, your pissing in the wind.

So, you need codes first and it sounds like there is a problem in the code return circuit.

Go back to the test light method. Except this time, instead of running the small jumper from the STI to SIGRTN, just run the STI(small grey plug) directly to a body ground. Then try and run the test.
 
STI....NO RESULTS

OK, I DONE THE SELF TEST AGAIN LIKE WAS SUGGESTED AND STILL NOTHING HAPPENS AS FAR AS CHECK LIGHT COMING ON. HOWEVER THOUGH, WHEN I HOOK STI LEAD TO GROUND ENGINE JUMPS UP TOO 3 GRAND AS SOON AS SELF TEST INITIATES. ANY MORE IDEAS?
 
No info about your car's model year, EFI or carb, no mods listed. Makes it hard to troubleshoot when we don't know what you have.

Therefore, no clue as to which wiring diagram you need. The wiring changed several times between 79 & 95.

That's why it is a good idea to use the sig under the user control panel (User CP) option. It allows you to post your car year & mods, which help greatly when troubleshooting things. No, it is not there for us to snoop and see any "Secrets" you have hidden away under the hood. Be a good stangnetter and update you sig for future reference & don't keep us guessing.
 
My car is 88 gt 5.0 ho(which was not originally in the car). has efi, been mass converted. told it had a slight bigger cam, but i sure cant tell it. was also told the mass air and tb are all stock. if i knew exactly how and where to measure the chambers i could be more accurate?19# injectors.


as for the self check koeo/keor done them both with no results.


so is it going to make difference with all the emission stuff missing. egr regulator, tab/tad solenoids?



well i hope this bit of info can help all help fix my problem. the other question i have is, why does grounding the sti lead make car high rpm?
 
Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 model 5.0 Mustangs

Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The small voltage drop in the battery cables will cause incorrect resistance readings.


Computer diagnostic connector:

B.jpg


How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated
ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the
computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work
properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power
and drivability problems.
Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its
way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should
read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery
pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power.
There is a dark brown connector with a black/orange wire near the diagnostic connector. It is
the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. If this happens, it either burns up the wiring or
burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 &
60. Only an experienced electronics technician can open the computer up & repair the trace if
it burns up and creates an open circuit.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. The STI
has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire Jumpering it to power can produce unknown
results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks
in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground
(black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than
1.5 ohms.

attachment.php


If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer
connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between
the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than
1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the
computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins
40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal
ground has failed, and the computer needs to be replaced.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the
resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on
the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a
wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector.
eec04.gif


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every
sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.
88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information

harness02.gif


See Computer issue? - Mustang Forums at StangNet for more help on fixing the computer innards.
 
Thanks again for the info. I do want to add i just found out the wiring harness and A9L ECU is out of a 93 model stang. And that from last time i seeked help, the car is wired exactly the way the diagram is you posted.


I will now do the resistance check as specified....and go from there.


as for what you were saying about not going into self test mode, not sure what it is but when doing the test, something is kicking on then back off?
 
If, what J said has happened, and the SIGRTN circuit was blasted with 12v for some reason. Just Turn key on and check the SIGRTN for voltage. It shouldnt have any. If its been blasted it can show up to 5v. And its easily fixable by just soldering a wire in its place and checking the connections.
 
OK liljoe and j.....



i done all the test above and everything is checking out! however i have new question, and not sure what to make of it.....car seems to be doing just fine now, only after getting pissed and mash gas down to 7 gs for about 8 seconds. This happend yesterday and now today messing with, car still doing fine. heard of blowing cobwebs but this one got me confused.


just thought id shar the info since you both been of help. still think needs rebuild, smoking pretty good out of left bank. good winter project i suppose!


look forward to chatting again!


little quote from my father....

"KEEP THE PEDAL TO THE METAL AND BALLS TO THE WALL, CAUSE IF YOU NOT LIVING ON THE EDGE...YOUR OBVIOUSLY TAKEN UP TOO MUCH SPACE"





THANKS AGAIN!!!
 
Only thing I can think of, is that somewhere you had a bad electrical connection, and while you where messing with it, it kinda corrected itself.

Ive seen some intermittent problems where the electrolytic capacitors inside the ECM have went bad and caused all sorts of problems. Let us know if it comes back.
 
WELL HERE IT IS 645, PROBLEM COME BACK, TIRED OF MESSING WITH IT. DONE RIPPED MUCH OFF, GOING RETRO....ITS WHAT I KNOW AND YES ITS WHERE THE TRUE MUSCLE ORIGINATED FROM!!!!!!!!!! AS FAR AS IM CONCERNED THE RUINED A GOOD THING WHEN THEY CAME UP WITH EFI, CARB SYSTEM MUCH EASIER AND WILL ALWAYS BE THE BEST. GUESS IM JUST OLD SCHOOL!


WHEN I GET CAR DONE THE WAY I WANT, I WILL INDEED POST THE RESULTS! THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THOSE WHO HELPED. ITS JUST WITH THE AMOUNT OF CASH THAT GOES INTO EFI SET UP A CARB SET UP CAN BE TWICE AS MEAN FOR LESS THE PRICE. OPIONS VERY I KNOW.


HOWEVER ONE CHOOSES TO GO...HAPPY TRAILS TO ALL!!!