Stock 93 Roller Motor

Crs · Mar 6, 2007

I have a 93 Roller Engine out of a 5.0 Stang with 0 miles . I want more power than the factory 225 HP that it comes with. What can i do to get more like 300hp without opening up the motor? Can i just change the cam to a Ford Racing Cam and go to Aluminum heads? It will go my 68 (Carbed) with a C4 auto.

Thanks!

65ShelbyClone · Mar 6, 2007

Changing heads involves opening up the engine, you know.

67Dylan · Mar 6, 2007

How much $$$ do you want to spend? You can get a LOT of different answers on this and nobody will be wrong, well almost nobody. You can go w/ported stock heads/intake and a custom cam to a package deal from TFS, E-brock, Holley.... I'd assume mostly a street car?

Heads, intake, & exhaust will get you there. The stock cam isn't bad at all.

Crs · Mar 6, 2007

Which aftermarket heads will compliment the stock cam?

ultrastang · Mar 7, 2007

If the '93 5.0L engine is stock, then remember it has hypereutectic pistons and not forged pistons like the stock '86-'92 models had.

If you start pushing the power past the 300 hp mark, you may want to consider forged pistons.

washMO66 · Mar 7, 2007

ultrastang said:
If the '93 5.0L engine is stock, then remember it has hypereutectic pistons and not forged pistons like the stock '86-'92 models had.

If you start pushing the power past the 300 hp mark, you may want to consider forged pistons.

Um, since when were Hyper pistons not good on a non power adder motor?

I run KB hypers on my motor since 03 and I have right around 475 to 500FWHP and hypers are lighter than most forged slugs. I agree on a high performance high compression race engine you should do forged and they are the only way to go on the spray or boost but if neither of those are in the cards your wasting your coin. My engine being what I consider a mild 347ci pump gas friendly street engine the hypers have worked and survived great.

biggyfan1 · Mar 7, 2007

get a intake slap the carb on top of that thing, then get some long tube headers, and if you want to change your heads and get into the motor and you want to stay cast iron get some power heads, www.powerheads.com you turn your heads in and they give you ported ones for about 800$

ultrastang · Mar 7, 2007

washMO66 said:
Um, since when were Hyper pistons not good on a non power adder motor?

I run KB hypers on my motor since 03 and I have right around 475 to 500FWHP and hypers are lighter than most forged slugs. I agree on a high performance high compression race engine you should do forged and they are the only way to go on the spray or boost but if neither of those are in the cards your wasting your coin. My engine being what I consider a mild 347ci pump gas friendly street engine the hypers have worked and survived great.

I wasn't saying that the hyper pistons were not good on a non-power adder, naturally aspirated, engine. I was just simply pointing out that Ford stopped using forged pistons with the '92 Mustang 5.0L engines. Most people do not know that this change occured.

Crs also didn't say that he would or would not ever run a power adder either. You know how it is when you start upping the power ante. It usually (progressively) leads to more powerful enhancement changes as time goes on.

65ShelbyClone · Mar 8, 2007

The funny thing is that with a conservative tune, the stock 5.0 block can be overpowered with cast, hypereutectic or forged pistons.

Crs said:
Which aftermarket heads will compliment the stock cam?

You should be more concerned with what cam will compliment the heads that will be best for what you want to do with the car.

washMO66 · Mar 8, 2007

ultrastang said:
I wasn't saying that the hyper pistons were not good on a non-power adder, naturally aspirated, engine. I was just simply pointing out that Ford stopped using forged pistons with the '92 Mustang 5.0L engines. Most people do not know that this change occured.

Crs also didn't say that he would or would not ever run a power adder either. You know how it is when you start upping the power ante. It usually (progressively) leads to more powerful enhancement changes as time goes on.

I hear you, good info and a little bit of power always leads to wanting more.....

SoCalCruising · Mar 8, 2007

The stock cam is a single pattern, not favoring the exhaust. So, a head with a good flowing exhaust port is needed. Also, your stock pistons aren't flycut for large valves. AFR 165s use a 1.90" intake valve and 1.60" exhaust, which will work fine. These also respond very well to single pattern cams because the exhaust flows so well.

bnickel · Mar 8, 2007

SoCalCruising said:
The stock cam is a single pattern, not favoring the exhaust. So, a head with a good flowing exhaust port is needed. Also, your stock pistons aren't flycut for large valves. AFR 165s use a 1.90" intake valve and 1.60" exhaust, which will work fine. These also respond very well to single pattern cams because the exhaust flows so well.

i second that motion. AFR 165's with the competition port job (about $400 more than regular AFR's) with the 58cc chambers and a good cam like a comp XE roller with less than 220 degrees @.050 duration and around 110-112 LSA with somewhere in the neighborhood of .500-.512 lift, ford racing A321 intake, either a 650 mech secondary Speed Demon carb (manual trans) or a 625 vacuum secondary Road Demon (automatic) and a set of headers with 1 5/8" primaries will work well in an early stang and still be very streetable and not too bad on gas if you keep your foot out of it.

of course a good set of rear gears would be also be very helpful. if you don't have a overdrive trans look at a 3.25-3.50 gear or 3.70-4.11 if you do have an OD trans.

67Dylan · Mar 9, 2007

I third the AFR 165, these perform VERY well on a stock 5.0 block. Not saying others won't work, but they are what I've used w/no problems. TFS heads also work well, but depending on heads might have to cut pistons.

Keep the stock cam, there is nothing wrong w/it. If later you choose to upgrade the cam you can look around based on your needs. Before I changed the cam, if I were you, I'd concentrate on the suspension. You'd be surprised how much faster you'll be if you run on a tuned suspension; getting the power to the ground correctly will net quicker 60' times which pays dividends on the big end. Also, remember choose an appropriate rear gear based on your needs.

The hyper pistons aren't a problem until you start leaning on it w/power adders. Just remember, lean is mean, but fat is where it's at

Sicarius428 · Mar 9, 2007

You can keep the stock shortblock. Hypers are just fine for your goal and then some. First off what is your budget? A great bang for the buck setup is some Twisted Wedge heads, TFS stage 1, intake/carb of choice. Long tubes would be a nice addition too. AFR makes some awesome heads out of the box but for the price difference you can have your TFS heads reworked to net you a better gain down the road if you feel the need for more power. I do suggest getting the track heat heads because of the better valve springs they have... otherwise they are identical to the street heats.
Kevin

Crs · Mar 9, 2007

Thanks for all of your info guys! I think i'm gonna pass on the 302 and rebuild the original 289 with some aluminum heads and a good street cam. I'm shooting for 300-350hp.

65ShelbyClone · Mar 9, 2007

At the crank or at the rear wheels? 300fwhp is easy, 300rwhp is somewhat easy, and 350rwhp needs a good stout build.

Crs · Mar 9, 2007

300-350 fwhp. I want a good running street engine build. It will be hooking up to a C4 with a 2500 stall, and 3.50 gears on a 9'' rear.

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