Stock K-Member Alignment Issue

millhouse · Jul 7, 2010

I recently purchased my 97 Cobra from an individual who had the engine replaced/rebuilt. The shop that did the work apparently dropped the k-member down, but when they re-installed everything it seems to be crooked. The drivers side front wheel is closer to the back of the fender well than the passenger side making the wheel not centered in the well.

My question is, is it possible to loosen up the k-member bolts and pull the k-member out a bit with a pry bar or come-along? Or, is this something that an alignment shop (I need an alignment too) can easily and cheaply do?

rjs281 · Jul 7, 2010

I found the same problem with mine. I tried jacking the motor up a little and moving mine but it wouldnt go.Am wondering about this myself.

bdcardinal · Jul 7, 2010

Go to Maximum Motorsports webpage and read the install instructions for their K-Members. It includes how to properly square a K-Member.

millhouse · Jul 7, 2010

I see they have a write-up on how to do it with the engine supported and disconnected from the k-member, but I'm wondering if it's possible to leave everything hooked up and just pull/pry it to better center the k-member in the fenderwell?

bdcardinal · Jul 7, 2010

im sure it is possible, just more work. The basic theory is the same though, everything is based off those rear lower control arm body mount points. just like how all alignments are based off the rear wheels.

millhouse · Jul 8, 2010

bdcardinal said:
im sure it is possible, just more work. The basic theory is the same though, everything is based off those rear lower control arm body mount points. just like how all alignments are based off the rear wheels.

Is this something a normal alignment shops is capable of doing?

rjs281 · Jul 10, 2010

If you get this figured out post up here what you did please.I will do the same.It looks like a job for a shop to me.

bdcardinal · Jul 11, 2010

millhouse said:
Is this something a normal alignment shops is capable of doing?

Most likely a race prep shop or a frame shop that fixes cars that were in accidents. You can buy a engine hanger that would normally be used for dropping the transaxle on a fwd car to hold the motor up to make the job easier.

millhouse · Jul 11, 2010

Alright, here is what I figured I will try to do. I'll go ahead and loosten all the bolts and hook up a chain on the drivers side (the side that's off) k-member to the tow hook of my F150 and GENTLY tug the k-member. The alignment is off anyways so I'm not too concerned about that...I just want to get this damn k-member straightened without a) spending a fortune and b) loosing any skin off my knuckles!

bdcardinal · Jul 11, 2010

Dont do that. We are talking about maybe 1/2" at the most that it is out.

millhouse · Jul 11, 2010

bdcardinal said:
Dont do that. We are talking about maybe 1/2" at the most that it is out.

Try closer to 3/4" out. It's fairly blatant visually and only on the one side. And why not? I've read about people using pry bars on their k-members and it moving a touch. As long as I secure the chain to an attachment point that will not bend, I don't see why this couldn't work.

bdcardinal · Jul 11, 2010

a pry bar does not have the same force a truck would have. plus one slip on the gas pedal and your k-member is getting ripped out of the car. 2 of my buddies tried something similar with bad results YouTube - Retard Motor Pull

millhouse · Jul 11, 2010

bdcardinal said:
a pry bar does not have the same force a truck would have. plus one slip on the gas pedal and your k-member is getting ripped out of the car. 2 of my buddies tried something similar with bad results YouTube - Retard Motor Pull

Lol, there is a big difference between trying to slide a bolted k member forward an inch to pulling an engine. Besides, even if I were to "slip" on the gas pedal the worst that is going to happen is the k-member slides forward too far. I'm not removing the bolts, only loosening them. I've pulled cars from ditches, towed vehicles with a tow strap and pulled a crumpled clip out with some chains and a truck....I know how to finesse the gas pedal.

98COBRA281 · Jul 11, 2010

a friend of mine had the same problem, he loosened up the bolts a little, then backed up the car and slamed the brakes. it moved it a little..............

millhouse · Jul 12, 2010

98COBRA281 said:
a friend of mine had the same problem, he loosened up the bolts a little, then backed up the car and slamed the brakes. it moved it a little..............

Lol, that's not actually a bad idea!

millhouse · Aug 14, 2010

Alright, I finally got around to this issue again. I went ahead and jacked up the car and supported the k-member with some jack stands. There are 8 bolts per side that need to be loosened. After loosening everything, I relocated the stands over to the jacking rails and pried on between the frame an k-member and only managed about 1/2". I attempted the reverse/brake method, but that yielded nothing. I went ahead and got a badly needed alignment (drivers side had -.13 toe and passenger had + .28) but it wasn't able to be corrected 100%. My passenger side caster is acceptable at 3.49* but as expected, they were only able to manage 2.23* on the drivers side. I need to oblong the holes in my struts to further correct the caber on both sides too (lowering springs). Seeing how easily it moved with the pry bar, I think I'll go ahead and hook up some chains and gently pull the k-member forward in an attempt to further correct the k-member and pull the caster farther towards an acceptable level. I have 6 months to take it bake where they'll re-measure and adjust for free.

rjs281 · Aug 15, 2010

While prying the kmember what did you do about the motor? Could the place that did your alignment move it? Are you saying 8 bolts total or on each side? Been awhile since i was under there but didn't remember that many on each side. Sorry for all the ?'s,have the same problem and prying didn't help me.

trinity_gt · Aug 15, 2010

What are you guys doing with the rear transmission mount while doing this?

If you're loosening the K-member and prying it forward 1/2- or 3/4" or more, the engine and trans is being moved forward this much as well. Since the trans mount on the tailhousing is fixed to the chassis, you'll be putting that mount in tension. You should check to make sure the rubber on this mount is not being overstressed and, if necessary, address that too.

millhouse · Aug 15, 2010

rjs281 said:
While prying the kmember what did you do about the motor? Could the place that did your alignment move it? Are you saying 8 bolts total or on each side? Been awhile since i was under there but didn't remember that many on each side. Sorry for all the ?'s,have the same problem and prying didn't help me.

There are 8 bolts per side including the k-member brace bolts (4 on the brace and 4 on the actual k-member). The alignment place won't touch it...you have to take it to a frame shop around here (which I really don't want to pay for).

trinity_gt said:
What are you guys doing with the rear transmission mount while doing this?

If you're loosening the K-member and prying it forward 1/2- or 3/4" or more, the engine and trans is being moved forward this much as well. Since the trans mount on the tailhousing is fixed to the chassis, you'll be putting that mount in tension. You should check to make sure the rubber on this mount is not being overstressed and, if necessary, address that too.

I loosened up the trans mount before attempting to moving everything. The trans alignment magnifies the k-member misalignment...and you can for sure see how it's still slightly off.

wmburns · Aug 15, 2010

Pardon me if this was already been asked/answered. Has this car been wrecked? Has the frame been tested for square?

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