Stock Tach Sticks

S

stangsman

Member

Nov 24, 2003

45

1

8

Nov 4, 2010

#1

• Nov 4, 2010

• #1

My '95 GT stock tach is sticking. It's not responsive when I give it gas. Sometimes it's pinned at 0 at idle or when driving the needle doesn't move to the rpm's where it's suppose to be- staying stuck at around 1100 rpm. But if I reset my tripometer then the tach will start to work, for a while until it gets stuck again. I'm trying to avoid buying a new "used" cluster. I want to keep my odometer reading original. How do I fix the stock tach if possible or any other ideas is greatly appreciated. THANKS!

 

Twista

Active Member

May 7, 2004

510

2

29

@ the z00 in chicago

Nov 5, 2010

#2

• Nov 5, 2010

• #2

Might be your speed sensor which is located on the bottom of your tranny. It cost $14-23 @ your local autostore. Takes about 3 minutes to change. You more time spend jacking up the car. Its only held on buy 1 bolt then u pull it.

It can always try that and return it if your problem doesn't go away.

I also heard you shouldn't push your reset button while the car is in motion as it strips the gear inside the cluster which will kill the odometer+trip meter gear quicker.

 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member

Sep 28, 2003

3,651

4

68

Indianapolis, IN

Nov 6, 2010

#3

• Nov 6, 2010

• #3

The speedo gear has nothing to do with the tach signal. The problem is engine speed...not vehicle speed.


That said, im not sure how the cluster transfers the electric signal from the computer/distributor to mechanical motion, unless you can find someone who has had this problem you might be best off taking apart the cluster and seeing if you can find something wrong.


Worst come to worst, use craigslist and find someone parting a car out. Corral.net has people parting cars out usually. And car-parts.com is a great resource for parts.

I know you dont want another used one...but at the age of these cars and being the "red headed" step child...we dont have many options other than going completely aftermarket.

 

S

stangsman

Member

Nov 24, 2003

45

1

8

Nov 7, 2010

#4

• Nov 7, 2010

• #4

Thanks for the tip, I won't reset the tripometer while it's moving. I'll take out the cluster and take a look. When it comes to electrical that's where I'm at a loss. It looks like the tach is not getting "current" I've seen pictures of the back of the cluster and I see a maze outlined on the circuit board. A wild uneducated guess looks like maybe one of the "lines" maybe cracked and when I depress the trip button I temporarily mend the circuit together. I'm thinking the crack may come from years of heat in the dash. Just a wild guess. I may need a new "used" cluster. And with this model year, I'll need to scoop one up before they get more rare. Or, maybe the tach wire connection to the ignition coil is no good even though I unplugged and inspected the wire and plug and securely plugged it back but no luck. Welcome more ideas and input. Thanks!

 

B

Black95SVT

Member

Mar 15, 2009

15

0

11

Oak View, CA

Dec 8, 2010

#5

• Dec 8, 2010

• #5

I'm having a similar problem with my tach. I never noticed it working better after hitting the trip reset. I'll check that out tomorrow. Mine will occasionally shoot up if I get on it and then float back down as my revs decrease. Sometimes it just works fine. I'll go for a cruise tomorrow and see what it does and write back. I haven't found anyone else with this problem before, maybe we can get this sorted out.

 

B

Black95SVT

Member

Mar 15, 2009

15

0

11

Oak View, CA

Feb 10, 2011

#6

• Feb 10, 2011

• #6

So I fully intended to get back to this thread way back in December haha. Got side tracked by other issues. So I haven't noticed any change in my tach when I reset the trip. It sounds like the same problem I have though. Did you get yours fixed? Anyone else have any ideas about this?

 

wheelyman19

Active Member

Mar 31, 2008

155

1

29

Sep 8, 2011

#7

• Sep 8, 2011

• #7

Mine does the same, has anyone found the problem?

 

DanG

Founding Member

Oct 8, 2000

694

0

17

Maryland

Sep 9, 2011

#8

• Sep 9, 2011

• #8

I have the same issue. I think the real fix is to replace the cluster, as there is most likely a circuit issue within the tach cluster. JMO

 

biggbronco

New Member

Aug 31, 2008

17

0

1

Sep 9, 2011

#9

• Sep 9, 2011

• #9

im just throwing this out there, but something like this happened on my Bronco. It turned out to be the gauge face itself. I replaced my gauge faces and the tach face lifted ever so slightly. It was enough to interfere with the needle. I backed the needle out about a millimeter and everything was all good.

 

wheelyman19

Active Member

Mar 31, 2008

155

1

29

Sep 9, 2011

#10

• Sep 9, 2011

• #10

Thanks ill try that on Monday once, hopefully it fixes it!

 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member

May 20, 2006

2,051

20

99

J-Ville, FL

Sep 10, 2011

#11

• Sep 10, 2011

• #11

Yup, gauge face is the problem 99% of the time.. especially if you or someone else has installed white face gauges! The simple solution is to grab a fork or if you have one, the little needle removal tool that comes with white face gauges.. and just pry it up a little until it moves freely.

And by pushing the odo reset in, it's actually pushing the face down a little moving it away from the tach needle.

 

wheelyman19

Active Member

Mar 31, 2008

155

1

29

Sep 10, 2011

#12

• Sep 10, 2011

• #12

Thank u! Now do they make a white face gauge set that u don't hav to wire into your car and will just replace the stock black one? Think ima do that while I'm in there. Again thanks for all the help!