storage time is coming

1TallMF

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
955
1
0
Montreal
Hey fellas,

Looks like the time is coming close to have the car put away for the winter, some of you may already have. Its a sad time of year, I'll be doing it at the end of october I think.
I was wondering, last year I just took the battery out, put in a bottle of gas line antifreeze and put the cover on it. Do you guys do anything else in particular to your cars before the dreadful day when you put it away? I don't think there is any need for fogging oil, as those are more for carburated cars. I was thinking of chaging the oil before starting it in the spring.
Feel free to shoot out any advice or ideas you have for storing your cars.

Oh and BTW, it will be stored outside, unfortunately. Our garage is full of stuff.
 
Change the oil before you store it....That way your not starting it up after setting with rank old oil...Those poor bearings...:D
Nevermind there's alot off contaminants in used oil and its very acidic..This way when you start it up you know its got fresh oil and filter...:nice:
I use mothballs to keep the critters away to...Place in butter tubs and use one under the hood, trunk, and one in the interior...throw some under the car to...
Being outside, I would cap the tailpipes to..
 
You guys are killing me between that and trailer queens. My dad does the same thing with his car. WHY!? It is a hunk of metal to have fun with not a rembrant. If you die tomorrow, at least you preserved it. :notnice:

p.s. I noticed you live in a climate ..prob similar to Alaska. Honestly, I would move. I get too much fun out of toying with and driving the car.

That's my-o, nothing personal but the concept of preserving the car for what?..until you are too old to drive it, I just don't get. The trailer queens I don't subscribe to either. They get something out of practically putting a car in a bubble and not driving it?? Sheesh! Again, not trying to flame but cars are meant to drive. :bang:
 
Pokageek said:
You guys are killing me between that and trailer queens. My dad does the same thing with his car. WHY!? It is a hunk of metal to have fun with not a rembrant. If you die tomorrow, at least you preserved it. :notnice:

p.s. I noticed you live in a climate ..prob similar to Alaska. Honestly, I would move. I get too much fun out of toying with and driving the car.

That's my-o, nothing personal but the concept of preserving the car for what?..until you are too old to drive it, I just don't get. The trailer queens I don't subscribe to either. They get something out of practically putting a car in a bubble and not driving it?? Sheesh! Again, not trying to flame but cars are meant to drive. :bang:


It's more about having a sense of ease knowing that the next time you start your car, a rat won't have eaten throw an electrical harness, or a moth hasn't eaten your upholstery, or the old crappy oil won't cause your engine excess stress.

peace of mind for me...more than anything

BTW, mine has been in storage since late august :(
 
Therian said:
It's more about having a sense of ease knowing that the next time you start your car, a rat won't have eaten throw an electrical harness, or a moth hasn't eaten your upholstery, or the old crappy oil won't cause your engine excess stress.

peace of mind for me...more than anything

BTW, mine has been in storage since late august :(

Yes, I understand that. I just don't understand why some guys store it in the first place though? I can understand if 1Tall has a really bad winter up there but if you don't, then why not use it and drive it?
 
I agree. Do change the oil for the acidic reasons Andy mentioned.

I'd top off the tank and use some fresher fuel stabilizer (most have a shelf life of about two years). You can do the creative parking platform to keep moisture from wicking upwards.

Maybe put steel wool in the tails to keep mighty mouse from cruising around in there..... Baking soda in the interior......

Just thinkin aloud. It's been awhile (since Alaska and Seattle) that we really winterized a car. Now I mostly deal with dry rot.

Good luck!
 
Thanks for the comments guys. Yeah, it can get fracking cold up here, but last year I put if away at the first snowfall Dec 1st (this thing is impossible to drive in any more than 1" of snow) and when I saw there was no snow in mid-January, I cracked and decided to drive it. It snowed maybe twice the rest of the winter.
This year I will be moving 1000 miles away in January, and I'm not willing to risk getting stuck in a snow storm somewhere. So I'll leave it at my parent's house and pick it up in March. At least that way I can start making a pile of parts to put on it once I get it back. Woooot

I am seriously considering moving to the south next year, one reason being I could drive it year-long, plus your guys' gas is like 40% cheaper in some places. Not to mention you guys pay way less taxes than we do.

Anyways, I guess I better change my oil at the end of the month at least. Thanks for the ideas guys, I'll put them to good use :nice:
 
Wow 40% cheaper gas? Yes, all the more reason to move I guess. My dad just stores his car for the cold. And it does not get anywhere near as cold here in the mid-atlantic US. I know what you mean about 1" of snow too. Like the time I went sled riding backwards. ...downhill.. and into a tree in my 90 GT.

Glad you are part of the "drivers" club too!! :nice: :flag: :canada:
 
use a quality car cover too...

Change oil and filter, top off tank with fuel stabilizer, nothballs or baking soda, cap exhaust pipes... you may even want to get the weight off the tires... oh and cover them in tirefoam before storing it to protect them a bit...
 
The only time I had to store my car I stored it at my brothers house, he has a lift in his garage so we stabilized the fuel, put in new oil, covered it with a car cover and lifted it about 8 feet off the ground. I was only gone for 8 months but it worked like a charm when I got back. Also his garage is climate controlled, (has heating ducts).

94-302-vert said:
use a quality car cover too...

Change oil and filter, top off tank with fuel stabilizer, nothballs or baking soda, cap exhaust pipes... you may even want to get the weight off the tires... oh and cover them in tirefoam before storing it to protect them a bit...
 
If you are going to store your car for a period of more than two months, the following are recommendations to follow.
* Fill the tank with gas and add a gas stabilizer to keep your gas from becoming stale.
* Change the oil and filter.
* Thorough wash the exterior of the car, wheels, and tires. If possible, remove each wheel and thoroughly clean them. Especially the back side
where dirt and road debris accumulates. Polish the wheels and reinstall. Polish/wax the exterior. Clean/detail the engine bay. When the car
is sufficiently cleaned, consider covering it with a quality car cover from California Car Cover or Big Sky Car Covers. Just be sure you use a
quality cover.
* To prevent tire flat spots, use jack stands to raise the car off the floor. Set the stands under the control arms so that the weight of the car is
still on the suspension, and just high enough to keep the weight off of the tires. Putting the jack stands under the spring perches is
recommended by many. If jack stands are not available you can use wood blocks. Just remember that the suspension likes to be loaded. It's
heavy. Many recommend that you just inflate the tires to the max and put carpet squares under each tire.
* Check the tire air pressure and be sure all four tires are the same correct pressure. Note that regular air can leak during storage due to faulty
valve stems, wheel irregularities, etc. Costco warehouse stores use nitrogen to fill tires. It is the only place that I know of that has nitrogen
due to the expense of the equipment I guess. However, nitrogen is preferred for a number of reasons. The most important IMO is that it is
heavier than air and is less likely to leak out (larger molecules). So if you have a Costco in your area consider replacing the air with nitrogen.
You'll have more consistent air pressures without leaking.
* Disconnect the negative battery cable. When you're ready to take it out of storage hook it back up. Some prefer to use a battery tender.
* Place a few moisture absorber packs in the interior to absorb any moisture. As an alternative, kitty litter can be used in small containers.
* Get some Arm & Hammer baking soda to put in the cabin. Open the tabs and place the entire box on the floor. I'll put one box on the rear
floor and one on the front floor. This will prevent any musty smell.
* Cover the car with a high quality car cover. The cover will keep the paint surface clean and protect it from scratches if you (or others) will be
working around the car.
* Inflatable bubble covers are also available. You basically drive your car into the bubble and inflate it. Users state that air is continually kept
flowing through the bubble and this totally keeps out all moisture. So rusting of the brake rotors, for example, is not an issue. I don't know
anything more about this method so you should research it before using it.
* Change your oil again when the car comes out of storage.
* When starting the car after long term storage, hold the accelerator to the floor (which will turn off the fuel injectors) while starting. Turn the car
over for about 10 seconds to get the oil flowing to the top of the engine. Then start the car normally. It is also recommended to pull all the
plugs first so the starter isn't working against compression. It is my understanding, though, that if you have a BAP it can render this trick
useless, reportedly due to the upgraded wiring coming directly from the battery.

The best way to keep mice out of your car is to keep them out of the storage area, usually a garage. Keep doors and windows sealed as tightly as possible.

Keep food out of your building and cars. If there’s nothing for mice to eat, they won’t usually hang around. Pay close attention not to leave scraps or crumbs inside the vehicle. Vacuum the carpets, seats, under-seat area, console and glove box. Use probe tools to get at the petrified French fries on the side of the seat. LOL! Then shampoo the carpets so they are nice & clean and smell fresh.

Traps and poisons are a line of defense against mice. They come in a variety of models and prices. They work, but remember that bait traps are designed to attract mice and then kill them. Keeping the mice away in the first place works best. Some people prefer to put triangle shaped tube traps, that have a sticky base, near the garage door on both sides where the floor meets the wall. Rodents normally walk along these edges so places traps there works.

In most cases, mice enter a car by scampering up the tires. If the vehicle is stored without tires, it is a bit harder for them to get inside. Tireless storage will also keep your tires from “flat spotting.” However, the 2003/2004 Cobra is heavy and the suspension likes to be loaded. So jacking up the car is not one of my recommendations in this case, although some people do it.

Rodents can nest several places in a vehicle: the engine compartment, the interior and the trunk. They’re drawn to the warmth of an engine or heater motor. They will eat electrical wires and even spark plug wires.

Mice can also get into cars through holes around cables, pedal shafts, steering columns and so on. If you can seal all these openings, mice can’t enter. Leave the sun visors in the down position. If you want to keep the windows slightly open for better airflow, cover the opening with screening.

Usually, these creatures can’t get into a trunk if you seal interior openings; they usually enter the trunk from the rear seat. Some cars have drain holes in the spare tire well. These holes should be taped.

Some people put mothballs on the floor around the car. The line of mothballs should have no gaps at any point. Other car owners place mothballs or scented soap in a cake pan inside the car to keep mice away. Mice don’t like the mothball smell, but neither will you. If you go the mothball route, you can help to eliminate the smell by putting a scented candle under the seat on a hot day.

Zipper bags seal the whole car. There are two types. The first is a big plastic sack with a zipper. A second type is a plastic bubble supported by a curtain of air. The air pump draws little current and promotes better airflow. Both bags work well if you use them properly. The trouble is the hassle. You must be very careful not to trap moisture in the bag. While the air-curtain type won’t trap moisture, it does require electricity.

One final step in fighting rodent infestation is to make spot checks every couple of weeks. If you see droppings or notice that unpleasant mouse smell, the steps you have taken so far aren’t working. In this case, the first thing to do is to get rid of the mice. Then you’ll need to protect the vehicle from being re-infested. If you inspect the car on a regular basis, you should be able to remedy the problem before damage is done.
 
Wow, that was a long read, but very informative :nice:
Can mice even survive in below-freezing conditions?
I was rather surprised last winter, after sitting for almost 2 months outside with a cover on it, there was no rust on the rotors and the tires had not lost a single pound of pressure. The friggin thing started right up within 3 or 4 crankshaft revolutions. Hopefully it goes just as smoothly this coming March. I'll deffinetly do the baking soda idea and maybe moth balls...
Thanks guys
 
I am bucking the trend :D

I put my car up last winter to re-do some things and I went to start it last weekend to find a dead batt. (unpluged just sitting there), use a trickle charger. I hope to have it out with a optima sometime early to late next week. I will prob. take it out on nice winter days :rlaugh: .

I think the dead of summer is just as bad as the dead of winter...and leave the car up for short stints each season.
 
Pokageek said:
You guys are killing me between that and trailer queens. My dad does the same thing with his car. WHY!? It is a hunk of metal to have fun with not a rembrant. If you die tomorrow, at least you preserved it. :notnice:

p.s. I noticed you live in a climate ..prob similar to Alaska. Honestly, I would move. I get too much fun out of toying with and driving the car.

That's my-o, nothing personal but the concept of preserving the car for what?..until you are too old to drive it, I just don't get. The trailer queens I don't subscribe to either. They get something out of practically putting a car in a bubble and not driving it?? Sheesh! Again, not trying to flame but cars are meant to drive. :bang:

Storing a mustang in the winter at least makes some sense because it's an rwd performance car that doesn't like the snow. What's hilarious is when the guys over on the Mazda3 forum talk about storing their cars for the winter. :lol:
 
Its not so much the snow up here that bothers me, because I could just chose to not drive it on snowy days. Its more the fact that they use millions upon millions of tons of salt on the roads here any time they see a goddamn snowflake falling. Sure, it works for melting ice, but as a result alot of cars get rusty really fast around here because of this. My sister's '02 Protege5 has already had some rust fix bodywork done on it around the rear fenders, its crazy! As of now, there's not a spec of rust on or under my car (except for the surface of the driveshaft, which is normal) and I intend to keep it that way.
 
Are you taking the tires off? Might be a good idea b/c it might give the tire flat spots.

Salt... I would use that undercoating stuff for sure! You can buy it in black cans at the auto parts stores. It is a manual Zbart basically. I put it on my other cars and never had a problem. I am going to put it on the stang next.