Street tuning with a XCalibrator II / Wideband Commander?

Xcessiv

Member
Jul 16, 2004
187
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16
Hey guys,

Big dilemma here... Here's the situation.

1) I recently bought a Vortech V2 kit for my '01 Mustang GT. The installation should be completed this weekend. The kit includes all the typical upgraded stuff: 42lbs injectors, TR6 plugs, SCT BA-2400 MAF, AFM powerpipe, Focus fuel pump, SCT XCalibrator II.
2) The shop who sells the kit is Steeda Canada. They give a base tune with the kit, from Paul Meister. They're almost 6 hours away from here so I prefer finding local solutions.
3) Obviously, they don't want to publish the original tune so I can't ask a local SCT tuner to use the Steeda tune and make it final using Advantage software.
4) No local tuner feels confortable enough to create a tune from scratch for the modular FI Mustangs.

Therefore, I'm screwed... There are three solutions:
1) I drive to Steeda, but it'll cost alot for fuel, hotel and so on.
2) I ask a local tuner to datalog my car on a dyno, send the results to Steeda, who sends back a corrected tune 2 days later. I then return at the dyno and play ping-pong like this until I get a good tune. This would be quite expensive because I'd need at least three separated dyno sessions.
3) I buy a wideband (ex.: Dynojet Wideband Commander), I plug it on my SCT XCalibrator II, I datalog on the street and I play ping-pong with Steeda. Once the street tuning is nearly perfect, I make a final single dyno session to fine tune using the XCalibrator II tuner. This would be much cheaper since I don't have to pay for dyno time for each rough datalogging session.

Here are my questions:
1) Is it safe to street tune using a base tune that may be way off at first? If I set the A/F alarm properly on the Wideband Commander, is there any other risk for the engine? Other than the A/F, is any other parameter damageable for the engine?
2) I have a 4.10 gear. Do I absolutely need to street tune in 4th gear or if wind resistance will cause enough load in 3rd gear?
3) Usually, considering that Paul Meister is a decent tuner, how many corrections would be required to be within 5% of the final tune?
4) Once I'm within 5% of the final tune and I put the car on a dyno, will I be able to use the XCalibrator II (without Pro Racer Package) to make the very final adjustments? Or if I'll have to contact Steeda again for a correction?
5) And, last thing, is this a good idea or if you'd suggest taking another route?

Thanks for your help,
Regards.
Yan
 
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Hey guys,

Big dilemma here... Here's the situation.

1) I recently bought a Vortech V2 kit for my '01 Mustang GT. The installation should be completed this weekend. The kit includes all the typical upgraded stuff: 42lbs injectors, TR6 plugs, SCT BA-2400 MAF, AFM powerpipe, Focus fuel pump, SCT XCalibrator II.
2) The shop who sells the kit is Steeda Canada. They give a base tune with the kit, from Paul Meister. They're almost 6 hours away from here so I prefer finding local solutions.
3) Obviously, they don't want to publish the original tune so I can't ask a local SCT tuner to use the Steeda tune and make it final using Advantage software.
4) No local tuner feels confortable enough to create a tune from scratch for the modular FI Mustangs.

Therefore, I'm screwed... There are three solutions:
1) I drive to Steeda, but it'll cost alot for fuel, hotel and so on.
2) I ask a local tuner to datalog my car on a dyno, send the results to Steeda, who sends back a corrected tune 2 days later. I then return at the dyno and play ping-pong like this until I get a good tune. This would be quite expensive because I'd need at least three separated dyno sessions.
3) I buy a wideband (ex.: Dynojet Wideband Commander), I plug it on my SCT XCalibrator II, I datalog on the street and I play ping-pong with Steeda. Once the street tuning is nearly perfect, I make a final single dyno session to fine tune using the XCalibrator II tuner. This would be much cheaper since I don't have to pay for dyno time for each rough datalogging session.

Here are my questions:
1) Is it safe to street tune using a base tune that may be way off at first? If I set the A/F alarm properly on the Wideband Commander, is there any other risk for the engine? Other than the A/F, is any other parameter damageable for the engine?
2) I have a 4.10 gear. Do I absolutely need to street tune in 4th gear or if wind resistance will cause enough load in 3rd gear?
3) Usually, considering that Paul Meister is a decent tuner, how many corrections would be required to be within 5% of the final tune?
4) Once I'm within 5% of the final tune and I put the car on a dyno, will I be able to use the XCalibrator II (without Pro Racer Package) to make the very final adjustments? Or if I'll have to contact Steeda again for a correction?
5) And, last thing, is this a good idea or if you'd suggest taking another route?

Thanks for your help,
Regards.
Yan

my advice is do it yourself , but take it to a track so you dont kill yourself driving on a highway at WOT , its very dangerous , you need to rip 4th gear from 2500 to redline to get a good idea on what its doing
 
Hey guys. Morning bump.

I got in touch with the tuner who sold me the kit and he agreed about street tuning remotely.

1) He told me that he'd pull some timing until we get the AFR dialed in. I guess this is the common procedure?
2) He prefers doing it in 4th gear until 6000-6500 RPM, isn't it a bit high for a stock 2 valves? Can't I just do it in 3rh gear until 6000-6200 RPM?
3) He's shooting for an AFR of 12.5-12.6 until 3000 RPM and 11.88 on boost. Does it sound right?
4) What could happen if I run a good AFR but my timing is maxed out? Can it be dangerous for the engine? If so, how can I diagnose it? I thought the wideband would be the only tool needed to prevent from damaging the engine!
 
Hey guys. Morning bump.

I got in touch with the tuner who sold me the kit and he agreed about street tuning remotely.

1) He told me that he'd pull some timing until we get the AFR dialed in. I guess this is the common procedure?
2) He prefers doing it in 4th gear until 6000-6500 RPM, isn't it a bit high for a stock 2 valves? Can't I just do it in 3rh gear until 6000-6200 RPM?
3) He's shooting for an AFR of 12.5-12.6 until 3000 RPM and 11.88 on boost. Does it sound right?
4) What could happen if I run a good AFR but my timing is maxed out? Can it be dangerous for the engine? If so, how can I diagnose it? I thought the wideband would be the only tool needed to prevent from damaging the engine!

everything he said is right , 4th gear is what you want , I would set the rev limiter to 6250 if its the stock engine