Stroker kit what else needed?

I have a 306 that is smoking so I am looking at the Probe Industries 347 stroker kit to replace the current lowere end. I have AFR 165 cc heads, Edelbrock performer intake, and Comp XE270 hr14 cam.(see signature) Will these components work well with the 347? If so what type of HP numbers should I expect?

I have heard that I will need a new balancer and flywheel? :shrug:
 
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Sell the intake and get an rpm II or similar.
Have the heads ported or cnc'ed if you really want to get your moneys worth the the 347.
Go custom with the cam.
If you do these things, you'll probably need 30# injectors.
Lose the C&L meter for a pro m or pmas to match the injectors.

You have pretty good parts already, that have high re-sale value, so you shouldn't lose too much cash.

If you run the 347 as is with the parts you already have, you'll probably get around 350rwhp, with the better parts you can bring it close to 400rwhp.

You with also need the new flywheel and an ATI or FMS balancer. Probably a 28oz balance.
 
i believe you need to get the engine block clearanced to clear the rods for the rotating assy.

Easy to accomplish yourself.
Air die grinder with "cone" shape, or electric grinder works just as well.

Pre-build the assembly to check for clearances. Mark with a Sharpie a nice small round bottom mark where the cap bolts contact the cylinder sleeve and grind them out a little bit at a time till you have about .060" of clearance.

Don't forget to clean the block thoroughly after you're finished with all eight bores.
 
Easy to accomplish yourself.
Air die grinder with "cone" shape, or electric grinder works just as well.

Pre-build the assembly to check for clearances. Mark with a Sharpie a nice small round bottom mark where the cap bolts contact the cylinder sleeve and grind them out a little bit at a time till you have about .060" of clearance.

Don't forget to clean the block thoroughly after you're finished with all eight bores.

and then we have this...

Just make sure the shop has some previous experience with this :nice:

So which one is it? Do it yourself with no experience, or have a shop do it that has experience.

:)
 
My point was....
Don't assume that your shop will understand what needs to be done to properly 'clearance' for a stroker.

It can be screwed up if the guy in the shop is a goofball.

Ask if they've done it before.
Ask how much material they plan on taking out.
Ask if they will do a mock-up of the entire rotating assy, BEFORE making any cuts.

jason
 
Chrimminy... how the hell hard is it to make a 1/2" dia. x 1/2" deep round bottom grinder cut?
All you have to do is make a mark where the cap bolt hits the sleeve and grind till it has clearance.
A picture is worth a million dollars here. I have plenty of pictures for the OP's assistance.
Common Sense is the key word here. If you are totally mechanically NOT inclined, then this simple, simple task is not for you.
And as for Jason's post... yes, we have seen some pretty stupid mistakes a "certified" machine shop makes.
A persons "blind" trust in some shops will net you a 140# paper weight.
 
lol...

Below is a pick of the hack job I did on my 408w block... I say 'hack' work because it doesn't look that great, but it is 100% functional.

The pic shows 2 locations that had to be clearanced for my application.
The bottom of the bore
Part of the inner pan rail

just mock it up, and try not to remove any more material than needed...

RodClearancing2.jpg