Stroker Kit?
- Thread starter load71
- Start date
runningmole
Founding Member
load71 said:
Where are you located? I have a Hawaii Racing (Simi Valley, CA) 327. You may want to get a forged setup. I bet you're thinking you'll never add boost or nitrous...but you will
Yep, you don't need to waste your money on a forged stel crank shaft in a stock block. Its just gonna add rotational weight. I use a scat cast steel crank, probe/chp ultra light I beam rods and probe srs forged pistons.
I'd do something a bit better than a trickflow street/track package on a 331.
I'd do something a bit better than a trickflow street/track package on a 331.
If your looking for a mild engine that'll make power to the rev limiter, the track heat intake might work ok. The stage 1 cam, however, will not. You can use the TFS heads and track heat intake but a custom cam is a must. You have a heavy aod convertable, a custom cam will provide better power across the tach for you. You will be upgrading your valve springs.
Grn92LX said:
I agree with a heavy vehicle the cam can really make a big difference... The springs that come with the TFS Track Heat are pretty decent and can take some custom cams with asymetrical lobe profiles.
The Stage 1 is a little small for a stroker combo IMO.
If you need help with spec'ing or purchasing a stroker kit or engine I would be glad to help you. You don't have to buy from me if you do not like but I can atleast put you on the correct path based on first hand knowledge.
As far as what brand to get I can't help much, other than sticking to reputable manufacturers. If the pistons are made by a company called PIM Inc. (Plastic Injection Molders) based in S. America, I would say don't buy it, no matter how cheap.
A problem I had was that my kit was sold with low tension RACE rings. These are used for racing applications that require low ring friction. Unfortunately they also produce tons of Blowby. After a couple thousand miles I got 20% on a leakdown test. Make sure you know exactly what rings you are getting, and check with the ring manufacturer to make sure they are appropriate to your application. The same can be said for the bearings. A little extra time now will save you from having to rebuild within 5k miles.
I would also recommend a slightly larger cam for the stroker. Probably a Stage 2 at least, or similar grind from Crane, Comp, etc. Added cubes will generally prefer more lift and duration. I have seen recommendations for LCA as well but I will have to look that up when I get home. Let me know if you are interested, otherwise I will forget. Will you have to pass emissions with this car? This may be the most important factor to consider when picking a cam.
Good Luck
A problem I had was that my kit was sold with low tension RACE rings. These are used for racing applications that require low ring friction. Unfortunately they also produce tons of Blowby. After a couple thousand miles I got 20% on a leakdown test. Make sure you know exactly what rings you are getting, and check with the ring manufacturer to make sure they are appropriate to your application. The same can be said for the bearings. A little extra time now will save you from having to rebuild within 5k miles.
I would also recommend a slightly larger cam for the stroker. Probably a Stage 2 at least, or similar grind from Crane, Comp, etc. Added cubes will generally prefer more lift and duration. I have seen recommendations for LCA as well but I will have to look that up when I get home. Let me know if you are interested, otherwise I will forget. Will you have to pass emissions with this car? This may be the most important factor to consider when picking a cam.
Good Luck
Thanks for the replys guys. Rick i would love your help, and i wouldnt mind at all buying the stuff from. You have helped a lot of people out here, and i think it would be great if you help me. No i am not worried at all about passing emmisions. So do you guys think it would be better off buying everything seperate instead of the kit?
txstang84
15 Year Member
if you find a kit for either 331 or 347 with a cast steel or nodular crank, 5140 or 4340 rods, and forged pistons for around 900-1100 that's a decent price. they can be had for cheaper, but alot of them include the KB pistons which are good, but I'd rather take the forged over hyper pistons for high performance app's.
I sourced all my parts separately for $960 total cost including bearings scat cast steel crank, 4340 cap screw doweled rods, probe dish pistons, total seal rings, and clevite bearings. I figure there's no point in putting forged parts into a block that can't handle the abuse...
I sourced all my parts separately for $960 total cost including bearings scat cast steel crank, 4340 cap screw doweled rods, probe dish pistons, total seal rings, and clevite bearings. I figure there's no point in putting forged parts into a block that can't handle the abuse...
Personally, I would go with the kit as opposed to selecting the individual parts yourself. This way it will be more likely for you to have the right bearings for your rods, right rods for you crank, and right rod pins for the pistons. The list goes on. When you order though make sure they know that the car will be a driver and whether or not it will ever see boost. Have an idea of what rings/bearings you want before you call so that you are happy with what the UPS guy brings you.
