Strokin' It

[smitty_64]

All,

I am new to the group, but, since I am spending all the money, I figured I would share what I was about to do with you all. My White 95 Convertible is completely stock except for the 3.73 gears and a CAI that I put on it. I am leaking out the rear seal so bad that it smokes when I turn the car off. Therefore, it was time to take the leap.

I am currently having built or installing or having installed the following:

347 Stroker being built by Steen Racing in VA Beach w/:
Forged Crankshaft, Pistons and Comp Cam Rods
Steen Racing Cam Shaft
Harland Sharp Rockers
Ford Racing Roller Lifters
Ford Racing Adjustable Double Roller Timing Chain
Canton Oil Pan
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
AFR 185 Heads/58cc chambers
Holley System Max Intake
Summit 75mm Throttle Body w/Trick Flow Adapter
Trick Flow Valve Covers
30# Injectors
30# MAF
Summit Underdrive Pulleys
Cold Air Intake
88ROTORS Drilled / Slotted Rotors with Raybestos Pads
KYB GR-2 Front Struts
KYB Gasajust Rear Shocks
Ford Racing 3.73 Differential
New RATECH Rear Bearings throughout
164 tooth Flywheel
Stage I clutch kit w/firewall extender
MSD TFI Coil
MSD Distributor
Granatelli Subframe Connectors
Yokohama Avid V4s 16” Tires / Stock Wheels (Good up to 149MPH)
SCT Chip
BBK Long Headers
BBK X-Pipe w/Cats
Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back Exhaust
Billet Fuel Pressure Regulator
Stock T-5 Transmission and Drive Shaft
Stock Radiator
Used ABS Unit (having to replace the stock one cause its toast)

Think I'll notice a difference???? I'll let yall know what the Dyno difference is after Ed Clark throws the SCT chip and tune on it.

Greg

 

[Grn92LX]

Save money and go with a cast steel crank. You dont need a forged crank in a stock block. Cast is lighter too.

Go 1 3/4" on the bbk headers and be sure you grind open the collector as it necks down to near 2.25"

I would use a custom cam from a known grinder, not a machine shop special. Be sure the afr valve springs are swapped for something good to handle the cam.

 

[95vert354]

You might want to think about a different radiator too...horsepower=heat

 

[Green 94 5.0]

it sounds like you have a pretty good combo in the works, but could yout ell us a little more about it like the compression ratio, cam specs, and tuning method? as Grn92LX said, a cast crank will be fine. there is no sense in spending the extra money on a n/a stock block combo. also, i was curious about the clutch. which clutch is it that you chose exactly? and my last recommendation is on the brakes. instead of the stock size rotors and calipers, i would suggest just doing the cobra brake upgrade in the front. it probably wont be much more cost wise and the braking performance is greatly improved. the only issue i see is that you are on 16" wheels. the cobra upgrade requires at least a 17" wheel. good luck with it and let us know how it turns out.

 

[smitty_64]

Green 94, the Compression Ratio will be around 10:1 from what Jason Steen tells me. He said I'll be able to add at most a 9 psi charger on there later. I know the wheels need to change. Was actually thinking about going with 18's, but a buddy has 17X9/10.5 on his. It looks sharp too. I'm not sure the brand on the clutch, but it's the same one Jason uses in his dragsters, which is why he needs to order the flywheel special. He's now having to change the heads to the Victor Jr.'s because the AFR's couldn't be delivered in the time that I need them in, but that should be fine too. As far as tuning, Ed Clark is going to tune it on the dyno using an SCT tuner. Not sure just yet what his exact settings will be. If it helps the group, I'll get all the specs and pass em on when everything is together. Now, on the brakes, I will eventually upgrade them, but right now GOING is more important to me than STOPPING, LOL.