Strut help ASAP *PICS*

jpctln

New Member
Jun 1, 2004
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StL, MO
I'm in the middle of mounting my Bilstein struts and I've run into a problem. The driver side spindle doesn't sit right. In the pictures you can see that it's angled in way too much. That is with the strut decompressed. The other side is fine though. :shrug: I didn't experience this when I installed KYB's in the other one...

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And that tire sticks out like 3/4 of an inch more than the other one. WtF? Does this have anything to do with my strut install? I didn't notice any alignment issues beforehand...

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The strut isn't going to change how far out the tire sits....... If it was the wrong strut, it could be too short, giving you major positive camber, or too long, and giving you major negative camber....... I can't see how a strut could make the front track width change though....... Got me stumped. Call Bilstien and maybe even send them the pictures. Good luck bro.
 
So when the front end is jacked up, the struts are the ones compressing the spring, right? They are at their max 'stretch' when in the air, while the spring is still compressed, correct? I put the tire on, lowered it on its suspension, and jacked up just the control arm. It compressed the strut to the point where the tire sat right, and I lowered it down. How would I be able to tell if it were too long? Is there a certain code on the actual strut that would be different from the other one?
 
At1Maverick69 said:
I dunno but it looks like you have a bent spindle, at least that's what it loks like to me.. :shrug:
but check if your strut is sitting right on top and/or is not hitting anything.

The top nuts and thread space are even on both sides...that's gotta mean they are in right?
 
I think I might take both shocks out again over the weekend and inspect them to see if one expands more than the other. Other than that, I don't know what else to do. Is it safe to drive in the meantime? It's sits fine on the road as long as I fix the tire (jack under the control arm to compress the strut so it sits even)...but I shouldn't have to do that though dammit.
 
Do both of your tie rod ends have about the same length of thread exposed? Basically, are both of your tie rod ends the same distance from the rack to the spindle. You problem is being solved because you are pushing that wheel further up in it's geometrical range of movement. I think the problem may be the geometry of the setup at rest and not an over extension from the strut. Just my guess :shrug: I may be tempted to compare the bilstein and KYB from that wheel against one another also. Good luck.
 
Do you have aftermarket Camber/Caster plates installed? Could also try switching what wheels the bilsteins are on. If it does it on the passenger side then you know it's the strut. If it continues to do it on the driver side then you know its in the suspension absent the strut.
 
tunedin302 said:
Do both of your tie rod ends have about the same length of thread exposed? Basically, are both of your tie rod ends the same distance from the rack to the spindle. You problem is being solved because you are pushing that wheel further up in it's geometrical range of movement. I think the problem may be the geometry of the setup at rest and not an over extension from the strut. Just my guess :shrug: I may be tempted to compare the bilstein and KYB from that wheel against one another also. Good luck.

I'll have to check that tonight. But even if it was pulled out more on that side, it wouldn't be even and the steering would be all messed up, right? It's almost as if the wheel has a spacer on it or something (it doesn't). It boggles my mind...

tunedin302 said:
Do you have aftermarket Camber/Caster plates installed? Could also try switching what wheels the bilsteins are on. If it does it on the passenger side then you know it's the strut. If it continues to do it on the driver side then you know its in the suspension absent the strut.

No the cc plates are stock and I've never touched them. I agree though, maybe the best thing to do at this point would be to take both struts out, compare them side by side, expanded and compressed, swap them or put the stock strut back in the problem side, and see if the same thing happens. But about that track width issue...I have no idea.
 
I suggest finishing the install and setting the car back on the ground. It's hard to tell if something is actually out of whack when the suspension is "unloaded". Put some weight on it and then let us know if it doesn't look right.
 
is the tire sticking out more on the top or bottom? cuz I remember when I put my kyb's on, the top of the tire on my left side was sticking out, thus giving me alot of positive camber. so I put it up and tried to align it and couldn't till I elongated the holes on the strut.. have you tried that
 
QDRHRSE said:
I suggest finishing the install and setting the car back on the ground. It's hard to tell if something is actually out of whack when the suspension is "unloaded". Put some weight on it and then let us know if it doesn't look right.

Yeah I did. Like I was saying above, when I put it on the ground like that, the tire would sit on its outer edge (major negative camber?). I have to jack under the control arm to compress the strut and straighten out the tire to make it sit right.

At1Maverick69 said:
is the tire sticking out more on the top or bottom? cuz I remember when I put my kyb's on, the top of the tire on my left side was sticking out, thus giving me alot of positive camber. so I put it up and tried to align it and couldn't till I elongated the holes on the strut.. have you tried that

The tire sticks out more on the top, but it also sticks out more overall, which are my two different problems right now. Camber and track width. Which holes are you talking about?

Thanks for the replies.
 
That's weird. I don't think that the strut could do that on it's own. Is it possible that the stock C&C plate is loose or moved?

Wait a sec. I have actually heard of alignment places having to "bend" a strut and I never understood what they meant. Call a place that does suspension and ask. I know it sounds kooky but try it.
 
Hypothetical question here...

What if I were to swap the stockers back in or switch the Bilsteins around or whatever, and the camber was still way off on the same wheel? Is there enough adjustment in the c/c plates to fix that if I were to take it somewhere for a normal alignment?
 
jpctln said:
Hypothetical question here...

What if I were to swap the stockers back in or switch the Bilsteins around or whatever, and the camber was still way off on the same wheel? Is there enough adjustment in the c/c plates to fix that if I were to take it somewhere for a normal alignment?
On my last reply, I was talking about elongating the holes on the struts where its bolted onto the spindle, it's gonna give you a little bit room to play with for camber. But the track width, it's not gonna help any. One of the older guy here at work, when things like this shows up with out aftermarket c/c plates, he usually elongates the holes on top. both on the plate and tower( not recommended btw). see if it makes a difference if you put your old ones back on or swap it around.. and to answer your last q, sometimes there is not enough adjustment on the stock c/c plates to do a good alignment, when you're lowered or have aftermarket stuff suspension wise. hope I'm helping more rather than confusing you..
 
jpctln said:
Hypothetical question here...

What if I were to swap the stockers back in or switch the Bilsteins around or whatever, and the camber was still way off on the same wheel? Is there enough adjustment in the c/c plates to fix that if I were to take it somewhere for a normal alignment?
This is what I would try.
I would think a good alignment shop could get you where you need to be without aftermarket CC plates.

Good Luck.