Strut Rod reinforcement
- Thread starter xafalcongs
- Start date
jikelly
20+ Year Stangneter 
Unfortunatly I don't think anyone here has really done much with strut rods. I'm also interested in your question since I am currently having a problem with on of my strut rods moving around in its bushing even though I tightened the crap out of it. I think there are a few people who have installed the solid TCP strut rods on their early stangs.
66P51GT
New Member
The strut mount location on the frame is a simple "H" |-| design. I nailed a curb doing about 30 mph in my first Mustang and the mount point looked more like this |^|. I had to use some percussion engineering to straighten it back out. This is where I believe you are asking for where to reinforce... yes?
If so, this is what I would do. The width is about ~3" or so. I would cut some ~3" wide heavy gauge metal and sandwich the mount location, creating an L on either side (front and rear of the mount point) and weld in place. You will need to drill the holes where the strut rod needs to reattach to the mounting bracket.
I remember reading a writeup on this but it was a few years ago on another board. Hope this is helpful.
If so, this is what I would do. The width is about ~3" or so. I would cut some ~3" wide heavy gauge metal and sandwich the mount location, creating an L on either side (front and rear of the mount point) and weld in place. You will need to drill the holes where the strut rod needs to reattach to the mounting bracket.
I remember reading a writeup on this but it was a few years ago on another board. Hope this is helpful.
Ditch the bushings and go kevlar injected heim joints
From what I read into your post, the bushings are not staying tight. This is DEFINITELY having a negative impact on your handling.
The job of the strut rod is to stop any forward and back deflection of the lower control arm. The quick and dirty way of effecting that in 1965 was to use a pair of the large doughnut bushings smashed together on the end of the shaft.
When the bushings are new, its OK. but as they age the lower control arm deflection starts to increase and begins to erode the handling of the car. Its gradual so over the years, the car eventually just seems 'loose'. In fact, now that the cars are really really old, a lot of the strut rods themselves are worn around the bushing interface. That just exacerbates the problem, and is likely the root cause of your inability to get the bushings to crush and stay tight.
I run the street or track strut rods on my 65.
http://www.nenny.com/strutrods/index.html
http://www.streetortrack.com/adjustable-strut-rods.asp
The street or track rods are comparable to the TCP rods but significantly cheaper. Give it a try, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
jer
( I am not affiliated in any way with street or track llc, I just happen to be a fan of this particular modifcation)
From what I read into your post, the bushings are not staying tight. This is DEFINITELY having a negative impact on your handling.
The job of the strut rod is to stop any forward and back deflection of the lower control arm. The quick and dirty way of effecting that in 1965 was to use a pair of the large doughnut bushings smashed together on the end of the shaft.
When the bushings are new, its OK. but as they age the lower control arm deflection starts to increase and begins to erode the handling of the car. Its gradual so over the years, the car eventually just seems 'loose'. In fact, now that the cars are really really old, a lot of the strut rods themselves are worn around the bushing interface. That just exacerbates the problem, and is likely the root cause of your inability to get the bushings to crush and stay tight.
I run the street or track strut rods on my 65.
http://www.nenny.com/strutrods/index.html
http://www.streetortrack.com/adjustable-strut-rods.asp
The street or track rods are comparable to the TCP rods but significantly cheaper. Give it a try, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
jer
( I am not affiliated in any way with street or track llc, I just happen to be a fan of this particular modifcation)
jmagilto said:From what I read into your post, the bushings are not staying tight. This is DEFINITELY having a negative impact on your handling.
The street or track rods are comparable to the TCP rods but significantly cheaper. Give it a try, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
jer
( I am not affiliated in any way with street or track llc, I just happen to be a fan of this particular modifcation)
I'm currently installing a set of RRS adjustable strut rods along with their ranck and pinion steering setup. Since the strut rods are forced to handle a great deal of braking stress, I wanted to reinforce the forward mounting locations. However, being a novice I wanted to get some pics from guys that know what they are doing......hated to ask this question on the CC board as I'm too stupid to post over there even though those guys are a wealth of knowledge.......
Thanks for all of y'alls inputs.
--J
K?¬ à?6P51GT]The strut mount location on the frame is a simple "H" |-| design. I nailed a curb doing about 30 mph in my first Mustang and the mount point looked more like this |^|. I had to use some percussion engineering to straighten it back out. This is where I believe you are asking for where to reinforce... yes?
If so, this is what I would do. The width is about ~3" or so. I would cut some ~3" wide heavy gauge metal and sandwich the mount location, creating an L on either side (front and rear of the mount point) and weld in place. You will need to drill the holes where the strut rod needs to reattach to the mounting bracket.
I remember reading a writeup on this but it was a few years ago on another board. Hope this is helpful.[/QUOTE]
Bingo! Thanks, that makes sense. What about the sides of the mount? Could you make a set of |=| reinforcement brackets in a bend brake and weld that around the factory mount? Or would that throw something off??? Also, would it be beneficial to weld any type of bracing between the 2 mounts?
Excuse the stupid questions, this is my first early Ford unibody. Last Ford I hoped up was a Merkur.
--J
If so, this is what I would do. The width is about ~3" or so. I would cut some ~3" wide heavy gauge metal and sandwich the mount location, creating an L on either side (front and rear of the mount point) and weld in place. You will need to drill the holes where the strut rod needs to reattach to the mounting bracket.
I remember reading a writeup on this but it was a few years ago on another board. Hope this is helpful.[/QUOTE]
Bingo! Thanks, that makes sense. What about the sides of the mount? Could you make a set of |=| reinforcement brackets in a bend brake and weld that around the factory mount? Or would that throw something off??? Also, would it be beneficial to weld any type of bracing between the 2 mounts?
Excuse the stupid questions, this is my first early Ford unibody. Last Ford I hoped up was a Merkur.
--J
Opentracker
20+ Year Stangneter
- Feb 4, 2004
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I have done this mod to our car. I use the roll bar gussets and seam weld the area to re-enforce the strutt rod mounting point. I have never seen one bend. I'm not sure it's needed on a street car but it is a good idea for a track car with good brakes and racing tires. I make up a lot of time on the brakes, our car can out-brake most of the cars on the track. The factory spot welds are a safety issue with me, I like to weld up most/all of the seams on the cars.
I'll try and get some pic's of the car soon.
John
HistoricMustang
Active Member
John, have you had any of your cars on the scales? My FB comes in at 2650 with no driver or fuel. It is 1450 up front and 1200 in the rear.
Just wondering how that compares with yours.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
Just wondering how that compares with yours.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
Opentracker
20+ Year Stangneter
- Feb 4, 2004
- 516
- 0
- 16
HistoricMustang said:
I had the orange car on a truck scale a while back and it was a portly 3100lbs. It is a full interior car with a Cleveland motor, Versilles rear end, roll bar, and it is a bit heavy. My next project is a '65 Ranchero and it should come in under 2500lbs with glass fenders, hood, doors, no side windows or tail gate. I have driven light cars on the track in the past and I like the feel of a lighter car so the Falcon should be a blast to drive.
John
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