Stuck...

The VSS sensors are down there on the driver side kiunda by the rocker panel, could have been affected when you got in the wreck? :shrug: - I'd check the conections there also.
 
"Patrick, does the idle stay elevated after you have been stationary for a few seconds?
if it goes away once stopped, that is the puter. the VSS and puter work together to keep the rolling idle around 1200-1500 rpm so that the vehicle does not stall (like if you got off a freeway and coasted down the off ramp). "

The computer talks to a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) that it located behind the kick panl on the drivers side.
 
here is what my wires look like theyre just laying out. the guy that fixed the car was a retard, he just left it like this :nono: :notnice: , now the stereo doesnt work and the doors unlock when i start it.
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This probably wont help, i just wanna show yall my screwed up car.
 

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Ok well do your rpm stay consistant to when you push the clutch in to when you where cruising (no change)? If the rpms climb up i would suspect a sticking linkage (since you took the load off the engine) but it seems as though you already ruled that out. It also seems you ruled out the iac. Have you check manifold vacuum yet? A vacuum leak will cause a slow return to idle/high idle/ rolling idle. I would check that next. The iac does have a stradagy to catch the engine as rpm falls so it wont stall. Now if your cruising down the freeway at 2500 rpm (or whatever) and you push the clutch in it shouldnt stay at 2500 the iac would alow it to drop to around 1k ish area then slowly drop to proper idle. Try to get your vacuum reading and let me know also let me know about how high above sea level you are.
hope this helps
 
Luvmy88 said:
The computer talks to a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) that it located behind the kick panl on the drivers side.
the computer is behind the pass kick panel, not driver's side. The VSS plugs into the trans.
 
spray brake cleaner around vacuum sources and listen for a change in idle. i had an 87 that did that and it ended up that some yahoo put a comp plastic upper on it and cracked it, replaced it with a stock upper and it idled like a champ
 
like the post about spray with brake/carb clean is a very good way to check for a leak. Also pluging the tb with a peice of card board to see if the engine dies if it still runs you gotta leak. To check manifold vacuum youll need a vacuum gauge. you can get one at any autoparts store for fairly cheap. Now the gauge will have a rubber hose off of it youll need to hook up to a vacuum source. Any small nipple with a vacuum hose comming off of it should be fine. Just remove the hose and put the gauge on and read the # on it.

If you dont wanna buy a extra gauge start with the brake clean trick, youll know when you hit the spot because your car will run noticeably diffrent. Hope this helps
 
Good job on fixing your car but I gotta put this 2 cents in real quick. A great way to finding a vacuum leak, as opposed to the carb cleaner trick, which also works very well, is some soapy water. Just spray the suspect area and where you see bubbles is where the leak is.