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stupid question about changing spark plugs

  • Thread starter Thread starter grantur01
  • Start date Start date May 11, 2005
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grantur01

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Nov 7, 2001
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Dayton, OH
May 11, 2005
#1
  • May 11, 2005
  • #1
I got some autolite 764's last night and i plan on putting them on later today. I have a stupid question about it though. I've never changed my plugs before so i'm new to it. Do the fuel rails have to come off? It appears that their isn't enough room to pull the coil plug off. There wasn't anything in the haynes manual about it. sorry for the ignorant question

also where should I gap to? i saw 0.054. yay, nay???
 

Shiroelex

There's nothing worse than aut
Founding Member
Aug 23, 2001
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Westland, MI
May 11, 2005
#2
  • May 11, 2005
  • #2
The COPs will slide out fine without having to remove the fuel rails. A few just take a little playing with to get out. Don't worry about mixing them up; they are all the same. I just did mine one at a time. The gap can be set anywhere between .054 and .056 I believe. Take off the intake hose, that will make it alot easier. I'm sure you already knew that, though. Good luck!
 

grantur01

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May 11, 2005
#3
  • May 11, 2005
  • #3
ok thanks for being helpful man
 

WRXracer

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Feb 28, 2003
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May 11, 2005
#4
  • May 11, 2005
  • #4
it is really easy..
 

Black2001GT

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Saints fan Stuck in FalCANTs country
May 11, 2005
#5
  • May 11, 2005
  • #5
Moved from Talk to Tech.
 

Dan_Soprano

15 Year Member
May 7, 2003
7,410
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Jacksonville, FL
May 11, 2005
#6
  • May 11, 2005
  • #6
don't forget to put anti-seize on the new spark plug threads!!! VERY IMPORTANT if you ever want to get them out again without stripping the heads!!! Make sure you use a torque wrench too. 10 to 11 ft/lbs (or 120 to 132 in/lbs) is the torque for the plugs!
 
S

SilverGTV8

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Nov 30, 2003
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West Brookfield, MA
May 11, 2005
#7
  • May 11, 2005
  • #7
hmmm I was told never to put anti-sieze on the plugs because the plugs are prone to blowing out of the head with anti-sieze.

I suggest doing a search on spark plugs.
 

mrvax

Stay thirsty my friends
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
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SN Moderator: Orlando, Fl.
May 11, 2005
#8
  • May 11, 2005
  • #8
I've always used a drop of anti-seize.
Do not forget this: Get a can of compressed air!!! Just prior to removing the plug, spray the air in there to get all the crap out of the spark plug wells. You'd be surprised what is waiting to drop onto your piston.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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Mar 30, 2005
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May 11, 2005
#9
  • May 11, 2005
  • #9
www.bullittarchive.com

very light antisieze (NONE on shoulder)
silicone dielectric compound
compressed air to clean out well
read old plugs
etc etc etc
 

2013 Geee T

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Sep 25, 2002
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Oak Park, CA
May 11, 2005
#10
  • May 11, 2005
  • #10
Are the stock plugs copper or platinum?
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#11
  • May 11, 2005
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The stock plugs are platinum but copper is hotter. Platinum lasts longer. How often do you want to change your plugs? I use copper because I am willing to change them more often.
 

twogts4us

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Apr 1, 2004
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Dunedin, FL
May 11, 2005
#12
  • May 11, 2005
  • #12
Kilgore Trout said:
The stock plugs are platinum but copper is hotter. Platinum lasts longer. How often do you want to change your plugs? I use copper because I am willing to change them more often.
Click to expand...
An dchanging them often gives you the chance to read them. After you do it the first time, you'll realize how easy it really is. It looks more intimidating than it truly is. I went with copper for the same reasons - cheaper, better spark.
One note - when I did mine, even after blowing a ton of compressed air into each plug hole, the plugs came out with lots of sand (welcome to Florida!), dirt and crap on em. So, I cleaned the threads of the old plug thoroughly, dabbed a bit of anti seize on it and ran it back down (by hand, with a piece of fuel line as my 'wrench') in until I felt resistance - then I backed it out, cleaned the threads again, and repeated the process until I was able to run it all the way down without resistance. In my book, with aluminum heads, this is cheap insurance.
 
R

Ronald Jones

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Dec 21, 2002
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Glendale, Arizona
May 12, 2005
#13
  • May 12, 2005
  • #13
2001 Geee T said:
Are the stock plugs copper or platinum?
Click to expand...
The stock plugs have a copper core just like any other plug out there. The platinum is on the tip on the center electrode (AWSF-32P) and some plugs have a small button of platinum welded to the ground electrode (AWSF-32PP)
 
B

bdcardinal

tree hugger
Jun 10, 2003
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santa barbara, CA
May 12, 2005
#14
  • May 12, 2005
  • #14
one thing you might consider getting is an extra deep spark plug socket. i have one that i got from MATCO for like $45. its about 7" deep and you dont need extensions to get to teh plugs. also if you are using a craftsman plug, be aware that you are prone to getting the socket stuck to the plug.
 
T

Torinalth

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Jul 16, 2002
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Clayton NC
May 12, 2005
#15
  • May 12, 2005
  • #15
i did mine last night. got hung up at two spots that i had to do a little finageling. the compressed air is a must, empty the entire can spraying off both sides. i used a 3/8 socket, spark plug attachment and 8", 3" and 10" extensions.

the front two on both sides are obscenely easy. remove the bolt holding the coils down, pull all 4 off (one side at a time). i used the 8" for the front two on each side and had no issues. the third one (on each side actually) have a clearance issue with the fuel return line. a 10" extension got me passed this. the last one on each side is fairly simple. the only hard part was the passenger side where the hoses were kinda in the way. so i used the 10" and the 3" to get the full depth of the clearance to get passed the hoses that are in that back area. i dont know what they are for but they do get in way. just use the extensions to get over the hoses.

after they are replaced, clean the rubber off the coils and replace. simple job... about an hour total.

Torinalth
 

propellerhead

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Apr 13, 2004
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"but what's with the but shots?"
May 12, 2005
#16
  • May 12, 2005
  • #16
twogts4us said:
An dchanging them often gives you the chance to read them. After you do it the first time, you'll realize how easy it really is. It looks more intimidating than it truly is. I went with copper for the same reasons - cheaper, better spark.
One note - when I did mine, even after blowing a ton of compressed air into each plug hole, the plugs came out with lots of sand (welcome to Florida!), dirt and crap on em. So, I cleaned the threads of the old plug thoroughly, dabbed a bit of anti seize on it and ran it back down (by hand, with a piece of fuel line as my 'wrench') in until I felt resistance - then I backed it out, cleaned the threads again, and repeated the process until I was able to run it all the way down without resistance. In my book, with aluminum heads, this is cheap insurance.
Click to expand...
How often is often?

I remember my Dad's friends would loosen the plugs then crank the engine to clean out the holes before removing the plugs. Old school trick!
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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May 12, 2005
#17
  • May 12, 2005
  • #17
propellerhead said:
How often is often?

I remember my Dad's friends would loosen the plugs then crank the engine to clean out the holes before removing the plugs. Old school trick!
Click to expand...

Copper plugs about every couple years.

I would not recomend the "old school trick"...
 

propellerhead

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#18
  • May 12, 2005
  • #18
Kilgore Trout said:
Copper plugs about every couple years.

I would not recomend the "old school trick"...
Click to expand...
I know. Thinking about it closer, it would also suck in any dirt.
 
J

JimC

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Dec 1, 2002
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Duluth GA
May 12, 2005
#19
  • May 12, 2005
  • #19
One last thing that I would recommend is a dab of dielectic grease on the porcelain part of the plugs. This will make the rubber boot go on and off much easier.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#20
  • May 12, 2005
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Not only that but also, you would have to pop off the coil, loosen the plug, put the coil back on, and then hope the seal on the coil boot would let the dirt out. It is just not feasible...
 
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