stupid question about changing spark plugs

grantur01

Founding Member
Nov 7, 2001
226
0
16
Dayton, OH
I got some autolite 764's last night and i plan on putting them on later today. I have a stupid question about it though. I've never changed my plugs before so i'm new to it. Do the fuel rails have to come off? It appears that their isn't enough room to pull the coil plug off. There wasn't anything in the haynes manual about it. sorry for the ignorant question

also where should I gap to? i saw 0.054. yay, nay???
 
  • Sponsors (?)


The COPs will slide out fine without having to remove the fuel rails. A few just take a little playing with to get out. Don't worry about mixing them up; they are all the same. I just did mine one at a time. The gap can be set anywhere between .054 and .056 I believe. Take off the intake hose, that will make it alot easier. I'm sure you already knew that, though. Good luck!
 
don't forget to put anti-seize on the new spark plug threads!!! VERY IMPORTANT if you ever want to get them out again without stripping the heads!!! Make sure you use a torque wrench too. 10 to 11 ft/lbs (or 120 to 132 in/lbs) is the torque for the plugs!
 
I've always used a drop of anti-seize.
Do not forget this: Get a can of compressed air!!! Just prior to removing the plug, spray the air in there to get all the crap out of the spark plug wells. You'd be surprised what is waiting to drop onto your piston.
 
The stock plugs are platinum but copper is hotter. Platinum lasts longer. How often do you want to change your plugs? I use copper because I am willing to change them more often.
 
Kilgore Trout said:
The stock plugs are platinum but copper is hotter. Platinum lasts longer. How often do you want to change your plugs? I use copper because I am willing to change them more often.
An dchanging them often gives you the chance to read them. After you do it the first time, you'll realize how easy it really is. It looks more intimidating than it truly is. I went with copper for the same reasons - cheaper, better spark.
One note - when I did mine, even after blowing a ton of compressed air into each plug hole, the plugs came out with lots of sand (welcome to Florida!), dirt and crap on em. So, I cleaned the threads of the old plug thoroughly, dabbed a bit of anti seize on it and ran it back down (by hand, with a piece of fuel line as my 'wrench') in until I felt resistance - then I backed it out, cleaned the threads again, and repeated the process until I was able to run it all the way down without resistance. In my book, with aluminum heads, this is cheap insurance.
 
one thing you might consider getting is an extra deep spark plug socket. i have one that i got from MATCO for like $45. its about 7" deep and you dont need extensions to get to teh plugs. also if you are using a craftsman plug, be aware that you are prone to getting the socket stuck to the plug.
 
i did mine last night. got hung up at two spots that i had to do a little finageling. the compressed air is a must, empty the entire can spraying off both sides. i used a 3/8 socket, spark plug attachment and 8", 3" and 10" extensions.

the front two on both sides are obscenely easy. remove the bolt holding the coils down, pull all 4 off (one side at a time). i used the 8" for the front two on each side and had no issues. the third one (on each side actually) have a clearance issue with the fuel return line. a 10" extension got me passed this. the last one on each side is fairly simple. the only hard part was the passenger side where the hoses were kinda in the way. so i used the 10" and the 3" to get the full depth of the clearance to get passed the hoses that are in that back area. i dont know what they are for but they do get in way. just use the extensions to get over the hoses.

after they are replaced, clean the rubber off the coils and replace. simple job... about an hour total.

Torinalth
 
twogts4us said:
An dchanging them often gives you the chance to read them. After you do it the first time, you'll realize how easy it really is. It looks more intimidating than it truly is. I went with copper for the same reasons - cheaper, better spark.
One note - when I did mine, even after blowing a ton of compressed air into each plug hole, the plugs came out with lots of sand (welcome to Florida!), dirt and crap on em. So, I cleaned the threads of the old plug thoroughly, dabbed a bit of anti seize on it and ran it back down (by hand, with a piece of fuel line as my 'wrench') in until I felt resistance - then I backed it out, cleaned the threads again, and repeated the process until I was able to run it all the way down without resistance. In my book, with aluminum heads, this is cheap insurance.
How often is often?

I remember my Dad's friends would loosen the plugs then crank the engine to clean out the holes before removing the plugs. Old school trick!
 
propellerhead said:
How often is often?

I remember my Dad's friends would loosen the plugs then crank the engine to clean out the holes before removing the plugs. Old school trick!

Copper plugs about every couple years.

I would not recomend the "old school trick"... :notnice:
 
Not only that but also, you would have to pop off the coil, loosen the plug, put the coil back on, and then hope the seal on the coil boot would let the dirt out. It is just not feasible...