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Sub-frame connectors

  • Thread starter Thread starter db357
  • Start date Start date Feb 22, 2007
D

db357

New Member
Feb 22, 2007
3
0
0
maple falls, wa
Feb 22, 2007
#1
  • Feb 22, 2007
  • #1
Does it matter what type or how much to spend on sub-frame connectors, I plan a mild street stang, and can weld, are the ones on ebay t-shaped any good? or a full length connector is better?
 

Woodrow

Founding Member
May 19, 2002
183
0
0
Atlanta/Auburn
Feb 22, 2007
#2
  • Feb 22, 2007
  • #2
I like through the floor sub frames the best, next would be the full length connectors. I think I have a set of the ones off ebay somewere, once i received them I decided not to put them on the car. But thats just me, somthing gota be better than nothing?
 
C

caduck

New Member
Sep 17, 2006
23
0
0
Springfield, Or
Feb 22, 2007
#3
  • Feb 22, 2007
  • #3
db357 said:
Does it matter what type or how much to spend on sub-frame connectors, I plan a mild street stang, and can weld, are the ones on ebay t-shaped any good? or a full length connector is better?
Click to expand...


I bought a set of cheat ones like 49.99 and with just bolting them up I noticed a big diffrence and today had them welded in when I got my O/R X pipe installed and it is night and day from when the car didnt have them at all, Must buy even the cheap ones work well.
 

MikeC

Founding Member
Aug 1, 2002
240
0
16
SLC, UT
Feb 22, 2007
#4
  • Feb 22, 2007
  • #4
Maximum Motorsport full length.
 
D

DRock9

New Member
Aug 22, 2006
359
0
0
Feb 23, 2007
#5
  • Feb 23, 2007
  • #5
Ditto.
 
G

getusummm

Member
Dec 26, 2004
156
0
16
Feb 23, 2007
#6
  • Feb 23, 2007
  • #6
I would say that if you even think you might end up at the track and need a cage then go to through floor type. The other nice thing about through floor, is you dont loose any ground clearance. The only other type that I would put, are full length. While you are at it, you might as well weld up the torque boxes and add the reinforcement plates. Here is a link that acutally shows how to build your own subframe connectors: http://www.oldwestracing.com/index.html?http://www.oldwestracing.com/articles/subconn/subs.htm
 
J

jagdiver

New Member
Jan 29, 2004
10
0
1
Feb 23, 2007
#7
  • Feb 23, 2007
  • #7
for you guys that have installed them yourself what did you do to keep the car straight while welding them in?? i know the best is to use a lift but has anybody just put blocks under the wheels and done it??
 
G

getusummm

Member
Dec 26, 2004
156
0
16
Feb 23, 2007
#8
  • Feb 23, 2007
  • #8
you can use jack stands on the rear end and blocks under the front tires. There are other ways of doing it as well. I have read about quite a few people that actually do them with the darn near the whole car apart.
 

MikeC

Founding Member
Aug 1, 2002
240
0
16
SLC, UT
Feb 23, 2007
#9
  • Feb 23, 2007
  • #9
jagdiver said:
for you guys that have installed them yourself what did you do to keep the car straight while welding them in?? i know the best is to use a lift but has anybody just put blocks under the wheels and done it??
Click to expand...
Flat garage floor. I put tall ramps under the front tires and leveled it with jack stands under the rear axle.
 

BlooDReigN

Member
Feb 22, 2004
283
1
16
Calgary, Alberta
Feb 23, 2007
#10
  • Feb 23, 2007
  • #10
Yeah...I put jack stands underneath my front control arms and under the rear axle.






There's a pic of em installed.
 

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S

smr

Member
Nov 14, 2005
167
0
16
Nor*Cal (Vacaville)
Feb 27, 2007
#11
  • Feb 27, 2007
  • #11
lift is easiest but did some with a friends car and just put jackstands under control arms and rear end.


I dont have any other pics of mine but you can kind of see mine in this picture. They are through the floor wolfe racecraft.

View attachment 400813
 
M

MYSTICSVT

Founding Member
May 16, 2001
349
0
16
Meridian, Idaho
Feb 28, 2007
#12
  • Feb 28, 2007
  • #12
I put the $49.99 Blue Oval Industries subs on mine about a year ago. Fit great and definitely tightened up the car. I put mine on at work with the car sitting on an alignment rack.
 

Euphoric306

New Member
Apr 5, 2004
905
0
0
Feb 28, 2007
#13
  • Feb 28, 2007
  • #13
MYSTICSVT said:
I put the $49.99 Blue Oval Industries subs on mine about a year ago. Fit great and definitely tightened up the car. I put mine on at work with the car sitting on an alignment rack.
Click to expand...

are you serious?

i picked up the blue ovals thinkin they were gonna be alright. the guy i brought them to wouldn't even install them

first of all- they didn't even sit flat on all surfaces, i got the ones that bolt to the seat studs as well as weld on, and they wouldn't sit flat against the seat pan and the subframes at the same time

they BARELY touched from subframe to subframe, not enough contact area to make a nice strong weld or to prevent excess flexing.

metal was thin and felt cheaply put together


i'd recommend them ONLY if you were going to sell the car to an idiot who didn't know any better.

after dealing with that and their BS return policy, i decided i'm not buying discount parts anymore unless a personal friend has had good experience time and time again with them. you definitely get what you pay for these days.s
 
M

MYSTICSVT

Founding Member
May 16, 2001
349
0
16
Meridian, Idaho
Feb 28, 2007
#14
  • Feb 28, 2007
  • #14
Euphoric306 said:
are you serious?

i picked up the blue ovals thinkin they were gonna be alright. the guy i brought them to wouldn't even install them

first of all- they didn't even sit flat on all surfaces, i got the ones that bolt to the seat studs as well as weld on, and they wouldn't sit flat against the seat pan and the subframes at the same time

they BARELY touched from subframe to subframe, not enough contact area to make a nice strong weld or to prevent excess flexing.

metal was thin and felt cheaply put together


i'd recommend them ONLY if you were going to sell the car to an idiot who didn't know any better.

after dealing with that and their BS return policy, i decided i'm not buying discount parts anymore unless a personal friend has had good experience time and time again with them. you definitely get what you pay for these days.s
Click to expand...

They fit great on my car. Bolted them down the seat pan's first and they fit perfectly flush against the subframes. So i welded them up and repainted them. No problems.

On a side note my car was 100% stock when I bought it and was owned by an old guy that only put 50K miles on it driving the interstate. Maybe your car's subframe was a little tweaked and that's why they didn't fit.
 
D

dtlionsfan

Member
Nov 12, 2005
83
0
16
Feb 28, 2007
#15
  • Feb 28, 2007
  • #15
I bought the laurel mountains of ebay.They are a full length w/seat mount LIKE the MM but not the high price or quality.The will work fine on a non-cage street car.
 
S

superhuaman

New Member
Nov 8, 2004
907
0
0
Harrisburg, PA
Feb 28, 2007
#16
  • Feb 28, 2007
  • #16
I bought the Kenny Brown full length SFC's with seat mount for $100 from CJ Pony Parts like 3 years ago. The guy that put them in, used a frame-contact above-ground two-post lift, supporting the car under the pinch welds. There doesnt seem to be anything wrong with them 10,000 miles later.
 
J

Joey7508

Member
Oct 23, 2005
198
0
17
Kerrville TX
Feb 28, 2007
#17
  • Feb 28, 2007
  • #17
I installed a set of wolferacecraft through the floor connectors. I love them. They are a little high price wise. Once I got them I thought " I could have made these". All the same good stuff. They tie off into the corner where the cage goes so it makes it easy to install a cage now or later. Another thing is that if you ever plan on putting a legal 8 point cage the short pipes that turn a 6 point cage into an 8 have to be tied (welded) to the subframe connectors.
 
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