Alright I have a 1996 mustang GT automatic and I am thinking I need to get some sub frame connectors. I was just wondering which ones you would recommend? And if the welded ones are better than the bolt on? also they look very simple why not just make your own? I mostly want them for jacking and lift reasons.
sub frame connectors
- Thread starter Doomedfailure
- Start date
Steeda's or Maximum Motorsports, don't even bother with bolt on ones. How good of a welder are you? That will depend on if you can do them yourself or not but I don't think it would be worth it since they are only 150.
well i looked at some kenny brown ones and they were around 350. And as far as welding i can do it but it dont look good, but i work at a machine shop so i could cut the stock and my grandfather is a retired welder so i would take it to him for the welding =). I asked cuz some just look so simple. I figured the bolt ons were worthless. if anyone has some pics of the pience and where the welds go and the specs. how thick the steel is i am sure i could make it but i could always buy just like making things
Whistler98
New Member
I bought the steeda full length ones years ago. For the price they are nice but I have yet to find someone to install them. My buddy is a great welder and welds many of them on but he does it on his post lift and not a drive on lift. He said he puts the posts under the front control arms but I am not sure if this would be a prob or not.
I planed on just jacking the car up and blocking the tires up so it is raised about a foot and just creeping under the car and welding the connectors in.
The problem with what ya'll are wanting is if the car is not under a complete load when you do weld them in the suspension will be wrong. You will put more of a load on other areas that shouldn't see as much stress and break stuff. The only way I can see of getting the car under a complete load would be quite a few wooden blocks to get under all 4 wheels and then your car is balancing on blocks about a foot off the ground which doesn't sound like a good idea at all. You need a full load under normal circumstances and you have no clue what level that is if you plan to just jack up a control arm. Do it right for 350 or do it wrong for alot more in repairs and headaches.
I have jacked my car up and put on outward facing ramps on all four tires and worked under it for amonth off and on without any issued. i had stand in all fours incase but i was not worried. I think this would work fine any whether i made it myself or bought one to put in that is how i would install it. just not sure on the gauge of the steel and the points they weld to exactly. but i do like the Kenny brown becuase of the cross and the jack pts. but seems like most people lean towards the MM so might just get that and add on the other stuff myself. but from what i can see on my car it needs it.
does anyone know if i can use the MM SFC's with the KB extreme matrix braces and the jack rails? i need to get things straightened out because i think who ever had the car before me did not use a lift or jack properly the pinch weld it damaged looks like someone used a lift on it to lift the car!
Honestly bro if the previous owner damaged the areas where you are going to be welding them to its going to take alot of beating to get them back where they need to be. I contemplated getting the jacking rails to go with my MM but when you can use the MM to jack to there is no reason for them imo. The only reason they would be good is if you have dumbasses who don't know where to put a jack under a car. I would just skip the Kenny Brown addition and stay with the MM connectors, drive your car onto 2x4 blocks if you are lowered and then jack the car where you need to. Heck if you have a few jacks you can even start on the subframes and then go to the regular spots.
I have not experienced it yet, but I was told by the installer that with subframes you can jack at 1 point of the car and lift 3 of the 4 wheels of the ground, I DO know that you can get 3 wheels dang close to coming off it and that isn't even taking it too high.
mransr
Founding Member
as long as they are FULL LENGTH, weld in connectors, you can't go too far wrong...they are just peices of steel 
Ok might need to just start a new thread. Went to get my car aligned after new tie rods. They informed me the toe in the rear is L.23 and R-.21 degrees they said it was because my frame is torqued. Do i have someone try to straighten this out or is it so small it isnt a big deal. also if i get the SFC will they work since the car is torqued a bit.
Stumbaugh
Member
as long as they are FULL LENGTH, weld in connectors, you can't go too far wrong...they are just peices of steel
This has always been my opinion on subframe connectors.
Sharad
ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
as long as they are FULL LENGTH, weld in connectors, you can't go too far wrong...they are just peices of steel
I agree. I'd look for a good price on a full length set.
Yep. I had the MM full lengths along with the KB matrix braces and the jacking rails on my 91 LX. Worked great together, although structurally the KB stuff was probably overkill. I admit the jacking rails were handy.
I'll still probably just use the MM full lengths on my new 01.
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