Subframe Connector question

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tuhockey11

New Member

Apr 7, 2003

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PA

Dec 27, 2007

#1

• Dec 27, 2007

• #1

Ok, I just read through like 4 pages of searched threads, and cant find the answer Im looking for. Going to order some MM subframe connectors by the end of the week. Question is, my car will never see a drag strip, road course, or even be launched hard. Do I really need the full length, or are the standard lengths good for my intentions? Money is not really the issue, if the fulll lengths are necessary on a driver, then so be it. Just want to do it right the first time. Also, is the ride harsher with full lengths? Want the car stiff, but not harsh. Lastly, anyone know a good shop near Philadelphia, PA to get these welded at? I have a guy who did my last set, but he just charged way too much. Does a good job, but it was very unreasonable. Any help appreciated TIA

 

Black Sun 5.0

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Mar 23, 2002

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L.I., N.Y.

Dec 27, 2007

#2

• Dec 27, 2007

• #2

I don't see why the ride would be any harsher, they just add more ridgedness to the car's structure. Like you said, you want to do it right the first time, so you may want to go with full length subs.

 

Killer50stang

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May 11, 2004

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Dec 27, 2007

#3

• Dec 27, 2007

• #3

tuhockey11 said:

Ok, I just read through like 4 pages of searched threads, and cant find the answer Im looking for. Going to order some MM subframe connectors by the end of the week. Question is, my car will never see a drag strip, road course, or even be launched hard. Do I really need the full length, or are the standard lengths good for my intentions? Money is not really the issue, if the fulll lengths are necessary on a driver, then so be it. Just want to do it right the first time. Also, is the ride harsher with full lengths? Want the car stiff, but not harsh. Lastly, anyone know a good shop near Philadelphia, PA to get these welded at? I have a guy who did my last set, but he just charged way too much. Does a good job, but it was very unreasonable. Any help appreciated TIA

Click to expand...

Okay, if you're not going to ride it hard, why are you doing this?

 

Fast63

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Sep 20, 2007

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Dec 27, 2007

#4

• Dec 27, 2007

• #4

I think he means it's just a street car that he will screw around on the street with. I think you will be fine with regular subframe connectors, no need for full length. I like my BBK ones, I bought them from summit and my friend welded them in for me. It actually seemed to improve the ride of the car because more of the shock was absorbed by the suspension instead of the body, at least that's what it feels like, I know it doesn't really.

 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

15 Year Member

Jul 6, 2006

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gainesville

Dec 27, 2007

#5

• Dec 27, 2007

• #5

I got cheapo connectors from blue oval industries. for $40 I figured I wouldnt lose a lot of money if they sucked. they came with the seat supports and really stiffened the chassis. I drive a vert that you could literally feel twist through every corner. well worth the money whatever style you go with. I would highly recommend ones that come with a seat support as they seem to be a problem area with our cars.

 

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tuhockey11

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Apr 7, 2003

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Dec 27, 2007

#6

• Dec 27, 2007

• #6

Thanks guys. I had the blue oval subframes on my 91 notch and they worked just fine. IMHO they are necessary on every fox body car, doesnt matter if it is a track car or a daily driver, the unibody just flexes too much. The whole idea of them is to make the suspension do the flexing instead of the body. Anyways, Ill get a few prices on installation in the area, and if the full lengths arent much more to get installed, Ill go with them. If theres a $200 difference or so in installation, Ill just get the regular length ones. They should do the trick. Thanks guys

 

Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet

Sep 17, 2005

2,867

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58

Port Elgin, Ontario

Dec 27, 2007

#7

• Dec 27, 2007

• #7

wow I would think $50-$100 would cover someone to weld them in....I guess there is a bit of prep work to weld to the sub frames.. Mine took about 2 hours but I cap'd the ends of my SFC's and took my frame rails down to bare steel before welding them in. I did mine on a drive on hoist.

 

Fast63

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Sep 20, 2007

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Dec 28, 2007

#8

• Dec 28, 2007

• #8

mine were done without any prep and total of maybe 15 minutes of install time. I don't think you need to go down to bare metal, the most important thing is trying not to burn through the subframe because it is very thin. Someone who's done it before should be able to do it in 15 mins and charge no more than 50 bucks. It's just a simple weld job.

 

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tuhockey11

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Apr 7, 2003

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Dec 28, 2007

#9

• Dec 28, 2007

• #9

Im with you guys, but shops around here are just nuts when it comes to labor rates. I wouldnt mind paying $100 for the job, but shops around here want closer to $300-$400

 

Fast63

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Sep 20, 2007

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Dec 28, 2007

#10

• Dec 28, 2007

• #10

$300-$400????!!!! someone's trying to rip you off man.

 

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tuhockey11

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Apr 7, 2003

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Dec 28, 2007

#11

• Dec 28, 2007

• #11

Tell me about it. But I dont think thats it. Every shop in this area says the same thing, I just need to find a shop that knows whats invlolved with it. Every place Ive been says theyve never done them before and when they hear what Im asking they think "that must be hard". Lot of hack shops in my neck of the woods, thats why I do anything I can myself. If anyone knows of a good performance shop in the Philadelphia, PA area I would greatly appreicate it.

 

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tuhockey11

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Apr 7, 2003

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Dec 28, 2007

#12

• Dec 28, 2007

• #12

Just called 5 more places directly out of the "speed shop" directory in the Yellow Pages, heres what I got: all five said interior had to come out, b.s. 2 of the 5 said the floor had to be cut up for subframes, I said "No, thats for through the floore subframes, these are not" They didnt understand Maybe its just this area, but WTF??

 

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lineumup88

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Dec 17, 2006

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hampton va

Dec 28, 2007

#13

• Dec 28, 2007

• #13

go to your local body shop and ask them to install them. i am an estimator at a body shop in va but i am from pa. try driving up to quaker town and just pull the car on the lift and show them what to do.no mor than a $150 job period. good luck bro!

 

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tuhockey11

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Apr 7, 2003

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Dec 29, 2007

#14

• Dec 29, 2007

• #14

Never even thought of a body shop, thanks! Have a local guy that painted three of my Buicks, Ill give him a shot

 

cobradvm

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Sep 2, 2003

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Woodinville, WA

Dec 29, 2007

#15

• Dec 29, 2007

• #15

Don't even need to go to a body shop - any exhaust shop will be able to weld them in for you - and they will have a lift for sure - the SFCs should be welded on with the suspension bearing the cars weight - so you want to have the car on a drive on lift, not a two post lift where they lift it at the jacking points. A body shop may or may not have the drive on type lift.
Cost should be no more than about $100 and take an hour or less. Or find a buddy that has a welder and buy him a 6 pack. If someone says they can do it in 15 mins for $50, I would be wondering how good a job they'll have done - sure you could tack weld them in place in about 10 mins, but you need to lay down a weld the length of the SFC where it contacts the subframe - that's gonna take longer than 5 or 10 minutes.