Subframe Connectors on 400hp vert

TWRViper

New Member
Jun 22, 2004
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Hey guys,

I just got my car back from Performance autosport. I got 393rwhp.

"Mustang Don" the PAS suspension guru was telling me that I should have him put somesortof $900 subframe connectors that go under the seat and across and attach to the other subframe connector.

I have full length subframe connectors welded under the car right now. This is a street car and I don't plan on racing it that much (if at all).

Right now the car feels stiff at 90k miles and the doors line up. I would like to keep it that way. Anyone with a high hp vert have any recommendations??? What are other people using to make sure their frame doesn't get messed up?

Thanks
Tom
 
Sounds like he's talking about through the floor subframes and if you don't race that much and don't beat on it too badly I wouldn't bother- its a waste. With that kind of power I would consider some type of torque box reinforcement to go with your current subs.
 
Yeah, I think they are called through the floor subframe connectors.

Ground clearance for what?

Right now I have tubular subframe connectors that about 1 5/8" in diameter welded under the car. Yeah it reduces the ground clearance by about 1/2"

Anyone input from a high hp convertible?
 
Ok, I don't really care much about ground clearance that much. But I do care about my doors lining up.

I would like to know if anyone with a vert has had frame-bending issues? Have you had subframe connectors?
 
I had a pretty bad dude Saleen vert a few years ago and a roll bar and regular subframes kept it straight. If your really worried about the frame and floor pans tweaking just put in a good 4pt roll bar. That in conjunction with the full length subs will tie the frame together. Also, if you don't have one, an export brace is a must on any vert.
 
Any full length frame connectors should hold the body straight. I don't think it's something that your car needs. Feel free to get a second opinion but I doubt that you will need a new set of connectors (especially for $900.00!)

You should be looking at some Torque box reinforcements / Lower Control arms / (possibly) Tubular K-member
 
If I were to autocross, I would def get a 4 or 6 point roll bar. But since it is a convertible everyone wants a ride, so frequently I have the back seat full. A roll bar is very ackward for passangers. I would prefer to avoid a roll bar.

I was considering some Nitto DR but I desided to get Hankook Ventus V4 ES H105 275/40ZR17s because of two reasons:

1) Less traction so I would be less likely to tear/bend something.
2)It has 420 treadwear compared to Nitto DR 100.

So with these tires I could probably leave the frame alone?
 
(For me) Your frame with your current connectors is fine. If you are planning on any 2500+ K launches then you might have a chance of ripping the torque boxes and chewing up your stock axles... I wouldn't be worried too much about it.
 
I'm not sure if the guy before me reinforced my torque boxes but i don't have a stock rear end.

Auborn Posi-trac, 3.73 gears

Thanks for the help, anyone with a different opinion? Otherwise I'll probably keep it how it is.
 
The actual tubes that go into the 'pumkin' or differential housing are the tubes that TMOSS is speaking of.

Like I said before though, if you don't do hard launches and you just drive your car on the street, than you won't have any problems.

Upgrading the Chasis sounds like a good winter project for you.