Subframe Connectors on 400hp vert

TWRViper · Aug 15, 2005

Hey guys,

I just got my car back from Performance autosport. I got 393rwhp.

"Mustang Don" the PAS suspension guru was telling me that I should have him put somesortof $900 subframe connectors that go under the seat and across and attach to the other subframe connector.

I have full length subframe connectors welded under the car right now. This is a street car and I don't plan on racing it that much (if at all).

Right now the car feels stiff at 90k miles and the doors line up. I would like to keep it that way. Anyone with a high hp vert have any recommendations??? What are other people using to make sure their frame doesn't get messed up?

Thanks
Tom

QDRHRSE · Aug 15, 2005

Sounds like he's talking about through the floor subframes and if you don't race that much and don't beat on it too badly I wouldn't bother- its a waste. With that kind of power I would consider some type of torque box reinforcement to go with your current subs.

jaymac · Aug 15, 2005

subscribed.
My real question is which full-lengths provide the most ground clearance.
(don't mean to hi-jack!! )

QDRHRSE · Aug 15, 2005

....ground clearance? I would guess any of the non tubular ones would give you the most clearance.

TWRViper · Aug 15, 2005

Yeah, I think they are called through the floor subframe connectors.

Ground clearance for what?

Right now I have tubular subframe connectors that about 1 5/8" in diameter welded under the car. Yeah it reduces the ground clearance by about 1/2"

Anyone input from a high hp convertible?

mac16 · Aug 15, 2005

Hey TWR what intake combo are you running? Also how many lbs of boost? Just wondering because your setup is similar to a friends

jaymac · Aug 15, 2005

TWRViper said:
Ground clearance for what?

I have 2" lowering springs, and scrape on alot of speed bumps, driveways, etc.

TWRViper · Aug 15, 2005

I'll tel you if you answer my question...

j/k

PowerPlus+ IM and about 12-14lbs of boost. It is hard to tell cause it goes too fast.

TWRViper · Aug 15, 2005

Ok, I don't really care much about ground clearance that much. But I do care about my doors lining up.

I would like to know if anyone with a vert has had frame-bending issues? Have you had subframe connectors?

QDRHRSE · Aug 15, 2005

I had a pretty bad dude Saleen vert a few years ago and a roll bar and regular subframes kept it straight. If your really worried about the frame and floor pans tweaking just put in a good 4pt roll bar. That in conjunction with the full length subs will tie the frame together. Also, if you don't have one, an export brace is a must on any vert.

TWRViper · Aug 15, 2005

What is an export brace? Where do I get one?

srothfuss · Aug 15, 2005

Any full length frame connectors should hold the body straight. I don't think it's something that your car needs. Feel free to get a second opinion but I doubt that you will need a new set of connectors (especially for $900.00!)

You should be looking at some Torque box reinforcements / Lower Control arms / (possibly) Tubular K-member

jaymac · Aug 15, 2005

I would def. opt for a roll bar, If nothing else than for safety's sake. It would def. tighten up the frame, and they sell bolt/weld in pre-fab's that cost ALOT less than $900.

TWRViper · Aug 15, 2005

If I were to autocross, I would def get a 4 or 6 point roll bar. But since it is a convertible everyone wants a ride, so frequently I have the back seat full. A roll bar is very ackward for passangers. I would prefer to avoid a roll bar.

I was considering some Nitto DR but I desided to get Hankook Ventus V4 ES H105 275/40ZR17s because of two reasons:

1) Less traction so I would be less likely to tear/bend something.
2)It has 420 treadwear compared to Nitto DR 100.

So with these tires I could probably leave the frame alone?

srothfuss · Aug 15, 2005

(For me) Your frame with your current connectors is fine. If you are planning on any 2500+ K launches then you might have a chance of ripping the torque boxes and chewing up your stock axles... I wouldn't be worried too much about it.

TWRViper · Aug 15, 2005

I'm not sure if the guy before me reinforced my torque boxes but i don't have a stock rear end.

Auborn Posi-trac, 3.73 gears

Thanks for the help, anyone with a different opinion? Otherwise I'll probably keep it how it is.

nidyanazo · Aug 15, 2005

When I welded in my roll bar I noticed a much-improved feel and overall stiffness.
Now I just need a s*** load of power!

tmoss · Aug 15, 2005

TWRViper said:
I'm not sure if the guy before me reinforced my torque boxes ....

I'd be checkin on that - before I worried about your subframes. Had the axle tubes welded up?

TWRViper · Aug 15, 2005

tmoss said:
I'd be checkin on that - before I worried about your subframes. Had the axle tubes welded up?

What are axle tubes? I am not familar with welding axle tubes.

srothfuss · Aug 15, 2005

The actual tubes that go into the 'pumkin' or differential housing are the tubes that TMOSS is speaking of.

Like I said before though, if you don't do hard launches and you just drive your car on the street, than you won't have any problems.

Upgrading the Chasis sounds like a good winter project for you.

Subframe Connectors on 400hp vert

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