Subframe Connectors

MAC'n89Blckstng

Active Member

Jun 11, 2003

1,012

3

36

NJ

Mar 10, 2004

#1

• Mar 10, 2004

• #1

I've heard that subframe connectors make a HUGE difference, is this true? I have the money ready to go and I want to know what difference I will see after they're in.

 

M

Muirracing

New Member

Feb 18, 2004

23

0

0

Louisville Ky

Mar 10, 2004

#2

• Mar 10, 2004

• #2

Connectors

I hear a great deal about the Differance its to benifit us all to have them
I wana know this..... I hear that MM is the best WEAR is the web sight
I have actually looked for these connectors.. I WANT THEM<<<<
just need to know were to order.... if any one can help in this area as well.. it would be greatful Thanks.. guys

 

408stroker5.0

The world would be a better place if all males jus

Mar 10, 2004

639

0

16

Bonnyville, Alberta, CANADA

Mar 10, 2004

#3

• Mar 10, 2004

• #3

Subframe Connectors are a must on any modified Stang especially when running big horsepower numbers or slicks. They are also great for a stock stang. There are many benefits to connectors. Less chance of twisting the unibody or body panels becoming mis alighned, Improved handiling and traction, Helps prevent twisting off the line when running slicks and tones more other benefits. Whatever you do, stay away from bolt on connectors or cheap weld in ones. These offer no advantage and can sometimes actaully weaken the unibody, because of there mounting setup. Infact I recomend using, "through the floor subframe connectors." These are a full length connector that require cutting through the floor and running a connector through it were they are then welded to the highest strength area of the uni body on each end. These connectors are also excellent for mounting points for a roll bar. This setup is the ultimate and can usually be done by any chassis fabricator. I run these connectors on my 87 GT w/408 Stroker with an 8 Point Roll Bar and I am very impressed with them. If funds don't permit, I know that Kenny Brown and Steeda make pretty decent Weld in Connectors, that will definetly stiffen up your Stang. Whatever you do, stay away from cheap ones. They are Garbage.

 

stangbear427

Active Member

Nov 11, 2002

2,401

1

49

New England

Mar 10, 2004

#4

• Mar 10, 2004

• #4

Here's the site:
http://maximummotorsports.com/
I'll second that last vote- you don't want to save money on this kind of part. Bolt in connectors just plain don't work, and anything less than full length through the floor subs aren't worth the effort. Not that they don't make a difference, just not enough to justify putting them in.

 

T

thompsonsd

Founding Member

Aug 15, 2002

144

0

0

Southern Maryland

Mar 10, 2004

#5

• Mar 10, 2004

• #5

I had some BBK's welded in and WOW, cornering was completely different! Much more solid feel! Highly recommend!!

 

L

leakyfaucet

Member

Dec 19, 2003

273

0

16

North Carolina

Mar 10, 2004

#6

• Mar 10, 2004

• #6

So you have to cut through the floor? Is this noticable from the inside? Where in the interior will the hole be?

 

408stroker5.0

The world would be a better place if all males jus

Mar 10, 2004

639

0

16

Bonnyville, Alberta, CANADA

Mar 10, 2004

#7

• Mar 10, 2004

• #7

No it is not noticable, as the carpet covers everything. On my Stang there is a small lump where the frame connector runs behind the front seat, but is barely noticable. Not a Big Deal. It also depends on how the fabricator welded it in and what size of a connector he used. Overall nothing compares to through the floor connectors. There is no holes after the install since everything is sealed and welded. Even weld in ones such as BBK may work for a while but they are not high strength and can eventually damage the uni body in the future because of there mounting braket design. Stay Away!!! Do not waist money in this area of the car.

 

89MustangGX

I have nothing productive to add!

Jul 3, 2001

10,262

1

0

Mill Creek, WA

Mar 10, 2004

#8

• Mar 10, 2004

• #8

I completely disagree with the through-the-floor design is the only way to go deal. Any weld-in connector will strengthen the chassis, with those being the best/most involved way to go. I'm going to try the MM full length ones on this car, and judging by the design of them and how heavy they are -- I'd say they'll work just fine.

 

stangbear427

Active Member

Nov 11, 2002

2,401

1

49

New England

Mar 11, 2004

#9

• Mar 11, 2004

• #9

MM ones are through the floor design, I have them. Highly recommended. There are no holes to drill, they attatch to the two rear bolts on the front seats. Didn't add much time to the install at all, on the scope of the project.

 

T

thompsonsd

Founding Member

Aug 15, 2002

144

0

0

Southern Maryland

Mar 11, 2004

#10

• Mar 11, 2004

• #10

408stroker5.0 said:

No it is not noticable, as the carpet covers everything. On my Stang there is a small lump where the frame connector runs behind the front seat, but is barely noticable. Not a Big Deal. It also depends on how the fabricator welded it in and what size of a connector he used. Overall nothing compares to through the floor connectors. There is no holes after the install since everything is sealed and welded. Even weld in ones such as BBK may work for a while but they are not high strength and can eventually damage the uni body in the future because of there mounting braket design. Stay Away!!! Do not waist money in this area of the car.

Click to expand...

Now why did nobody tell me about this when I was getting them?? They don't cost much more than the BBK's do, I would have gotten these!!! Anybody ever grind out their subfram connectors to install ones?????

 

stangbear427

Active Member

Nov 11, 2002

2,401

1

49

New England

Mar 11, 2004

#11

• Mar 11, 2004

• #11

I've never heard of weld in subframe connectors damaging a unibody. How could that happen? Not stiffen it up much, sure, but damage? Where'd you come up with that?

 

IMissMy93Fox

New Member

Mar 9, 2004

143

0

0

Mar 11, 2004

#12

• Mar 11, 2004

• #12

I had kenny brown ones on mine and it made a huge difference. Especially when i would take off the nose would lift and the car would twist before them, not lift off the ground but you know what i mean. After it just went.... Speaking of lifting it's kinda off topic but it's funny. My friend has a 96 Z28 and he claims if he downsifts from 4th to 1st he can pull the tires off the ground... then again he also claims NASA wanted his car to put 4 turbos on as an experiment... not the brightest individual.

 

89MustangGX

I have nothing productive to add!

Jul 3, 2001

10,262

1

0

Mill Creek, WA

Mar 11, 2004

#13

• Mar 11, 2004

• #13

stangbear427 said:

MM ones are through the floor design, I have them. Highly recommended. There are no holes to drill, they attatch to the two rear bolts on the front seats. Didn't add much time to the install at all, on the scope of the project.

Click to expand...

Sorry -- but I have them too. Of course mine are sitting next to me in the box, but I have them sitting right here. They weld underneath the car -- and although they have extra welding material, they are not through-the-floor. Those type require cutting the floor and the connector actually passes through the passenger compartment.

 

Stang951

Founding Member

Jun 12, 2000

1,129

0

0

New Orleans

Mar 11, 2004

#14

• Mar 11, 2004

• #14

I have a set of Steeda's that are bolted in right now until I can get a set of MM' full lengths. I put them on when the car was a 4 banger. I felt a difference even with the 4cyl in the car. A HUGE DIFFERENCE. I want to see the info that bolt in ones or the cheaper weld ins can damage the car. I have never heard that before....I challenge you...where's the proof!!

 

Bone Racing

New Member

Sep 7, 2003

1,075

0

0

Long Island, NY

Mar 11, 2004

#15

• Mar 11, 2004

• #15

there is no replacement for full length subframes

 

Stang951

Founding Member

Jun 12, 2000

1,129

0

0

New Orleans

Mar 11, 2004

#16

• Mar 11, 2004

• #16

I agree with that, but I don't see how the shorter ones could damage your chassis? I am looking for an explanation on that theory.

 

Marc2

Founding Member

Jul 4, 2002

150

0

0

Quincy, MA

Mar 11, 2004

#17

• Mar 11, 2004

• #17

Steeda has come out with a pair of full length SFC's, look just like the Maximum subs except the steeda ones also come with torque box weld plates. Might be worth looking into?? I think they are like $120-150 range, saw them in the latest 5.0 rag

 

Stang951

Founding Member

Jun 12, 2000

1,129

0

0

New Orleans

Mar 11, 2004

#18

• Mar 11, 2004

• #18

Just checked thier web site" 199.95. Torque box plates not the reinforcements though. Here's the description from the website:

These true full-length connectors run the entire length of the floor pan. They are ideal for on-track & competition cars that need the utmost chassis stiffness, but don't necessarily want a to stiffen the chassis with a fully "X-Braced" competition type cage that would interfere with the passenger compartment. The beefy 1.25 by 2 inch connectors provide additional stiffness and rigidity by connecting from the rear torque boxes all the way to the front of the front subframe. They are reinforced in key areas and include weld-on cross braces and a reinforcement plate for a more solid connection to the rear floor pan. These competition type braces require more welding than our traditional round tube subframe connectors.
The Steeda Full Length Sub-Frame Connectors offer a key feature that no other competitor offers.

Torque-box plates: these are designed to reinforce a weak area for welding. These plates offer an easy place for welding the rear connector. These plates also strengthen the base of the rear torque boxes where the connector attaches.

 

R

RollinSidewayz

New Member

Mar 3, 2004

47

0

0

Mar 11, 2004

#19

• Mar 11, 2004

• #19

What connectors should I get since my 89 is lowered 1.5 inches? I definitely want to get some but I don't want ground clearance to be a problem..

 

Marc2

Founding Member

Jul 4, 2002

150

0

0

Quincy, MA

Mar 11, 2004

#20

• Mar 11, 2004

• #20

Your absolutley right, except they dont look to be 199, i saw them listed as 119 for standard and 139 for zinc plated. I still think i might go with the Maximum ones, i know people who run them and are satisfied.