Subframe Connectors

Connectors

I hear a great deal about the Differance its to benifit us all to have them
I wana know this..... I hear that MM is the best WEAR is the web sight
I have actually looked for these connectors.. I WANT THEM<<<<
just need to know were to order.... if any one can help in this area as well.. it would be greatful Thanks.. guys
 
Subframe Connectors are a must on any modified Stang especially when running big horsepower numbers or slicks. They are also great for a stock stang. There are many benefits to connectors. Less chance of twisting the unibody or body panels becoming mis alighned, Improved handiling and traction, Helps prevent twisting off the line when running slicks and tones more other benefits. Whatever you do, stay away from bolt on connectors or cheap weld in ones. These offer no advantage and can sometimes actaully weaken the unibody, because of there mounting setup. Infact I recomend using, "through the floor subframe connectors." These are a full length connector that require cutting through the floor and running a connector through it were they are then welded to the highest strength area of the uni body on each end. These connectors are also excellent for mounting points for a roll bar. This setup is the ultimate and can usually be done by any chassis fabricator. I run these connectors on my 87 GT w/408 Stroker with an 8 Point Roll Bar and I am very impressed with them. If funds don't permit, I know that Kenny Brown and Steeda make pretty decent Weld in Connectors, that will definetly stiffen up your Stang. Whatever you do, stay away from cheap ones. They are Garbage. :spot:
 
No it is not noticable, as the carpet covers everything. On my Stang there is a small lump where the frame connector runs behind the front seat, but is barely noticable. Not a Big Deal. It also depends on how the fabricator welded it in and what size of a connector he used. Overall nothing compares to through the floor connectors. There is no holes after the install since everything is sealed and welded. Even weld in ones such as BBK may work for a while but they are not high strength and can eventually damage the uni body in the future because of there mounting braket design. Stay Away!!! Do not waist money in this area of the car.
 
I completely disagree with the through-the-floor design is the only way to go deal. Any weld-in connector will strengthen the chassis, with those being the best/most involved way to go. I'm going to try the MM full length ones on this car, and judging by the design of them and how heavy they are -- I'd say they'll work just fine.
 
MM ones are through the floor design, I have them. Highly recommended. There are no holes to drill, they attatch to the two rear bolts on the front seats. Didn't add much time to the install at all, on the scope of the project.
 
408stroker5.0 said:
No it is not noticable, as the carpet covers everything. On my Stang there is a small lump where the frame connector runs behind the front seat, but is barely noticable. Not a Big Deal. It also depends on how the fabricator welded it in and what size of a connector he used. Overall nothing compares to through the floor connectors. There is no holes after the install since everything is sealed and welded. Even weld in ones such as BBK may work for a while but they are not high strength and can eventually damage the uni body in the future because of there mounting braket design. Stay Away!!! Do not waist money in this area of the car.

Now why did nobody tell me about this when I was getting them?? They don't cost much more than the BBK's do, I would have gotten these!!! Anybody ever grind out their subfram connectors to install ones????? :shrug:
 
I had kenny brown ones on mine and it made a huge difference. Especially when i would take off the nose would lift and the car would twist before them, not lift off the ground but you know what i mean. After it just went.... Speaking of lifting it's kinda off topic but it's funny. My friend has a 96 Z28 and he claims if he downsifts from 4th to 1st he can pull the tires off the ground... then again he also claims NASA wanted his car to put 4 turbos on as an experiment... not the brightest individual.
 
stangbear427 said:
MM ones are through the floor design, I have them. Highly recommended. There are no holes to drill, they attatch to the two rear bolts on the front seats. Didn't add much time to the install at all, on the scope of the project.

Sorry -- but I have them too. Of course mine are sitting next to me in the box, but I have them sitting right here. They weld underneath the car -- and although they have extra welding material, they are not through-the-floor. Those type require cutting the floor and the connector actually passes through the passenger compartment.
 
I have a set of Steeda's that are bolted in right now until I can get a set of MM' full lengths. I put them on when the car was a 4 banger. I felt a difference even with the 4cyl in the car. A HUGE DIFFERENCE. I want to see the info that bolt in ones or the cheaper weld ins can damage the car. I have never heard that before....I challenge you...where's the proof!!
 
Steeda has come out with a pair of full length SFC's, look just like the Maximum subs except the steeda ones also come with torque box weld plates. Might be worth looking into?? I think they are like $120-150 range, saw them in the latest 5.0 rag
 
Just checked thier web site" 199.95. Torque box plates not the reinforcements though. Here's the description from the website:

These true full-length connectors run the entire length of the floor pan. They are ideal for on-track & competition cars that need the utmost chassis stiffness, but don't necessarily want a to stiffen the chassis with a fully "X-Braced" competition type cage that would interfere with the passenger compartment. The beefy 1.25 by 2 inch connectors provide additional stiffness and rigidity by connecting from the rear torque boxes all the way to the front of the front subframe. They are reinforced in key areas and include weld-on cross braces and a reinforcement plate for a more solid connection to the rear floor pan. These competition type braces require more welding than our traditional round tube subframe connectors.
The Steeda Full Length Sub-Frame Connectors offer a key feature that no other competitor offers.

Torque-box plates: these are designed to reinforce a weak area for welding. These plates offer an easy place for welding the rear connector. These plates also strengthen the base of the rear torque boxes where the connector attaches.
 
Your absolutley right, except they dont look to be 199, i saw them listed as 119 for standard and 139 for zinc plated. I still think i might go with the Maximum ones, i know people who run them and are satisfied.