SUBFRAME ?'s

In the performance world, you get what you pay for.

philcore3 said:

why should it matter how much they cost? Its not a moving part, its a piece of metal. I guess it would depend on how much abuse you plan on giving your frame. Blue oval subframes are on my daily driver and they do their job just fine. Track use, maybe not ??? They are welded by the way, bolted to the seat pan and welded front and back.

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May not be a moving part and just metal but there are all kinds of diffrent metal thinkness and over all quality of the product. Devus is right, you get what you pay for in the mod world.

IMO I would stick w/ either Steeda sub frames or Maximum Motorsports.

i made my own and welded then in myself, but at first i just had them bolted it, well when i finally did weld them in... it was night and day, so yeah, weld in's!

I have UPR's and have no problems with them. You shouldn't have to take out the exhaust, even if they bolt to the seat brackets. It would give you more room to work under the car though, if you are doing the welding yourself.

I have a set of full length weld-in sub frames made by Global West. Maximum Motorsports also makes a good pair. Buy the full length ones, other articles I have read these advise full length, thats why I bought them. Some manufactures make smaller ones that just just don't make much difference. The ones I have can be tied into a roll cage if needed in the future. Just my .02

DeVus1 said:

In the performance world, you get what you pay for.

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C'mon now...that's a bit close-minded. I work in a factory and one of the maintanence guys is a friend of mine. He's pretty skilled with fabbing up just about anything and he made a press jig that can bend 1-1/4 x 2 inch rectangle tubing the exact same way every time, and he made the bends to follow the chassis of the car. The steel we use to make them is WAY stronger than anything you're going to find on the market, and since it's all scrap steel, it's FREE. I wouldn't call that getting a cheap product just because it's inexpensive, would you?

And before anyone mentions weight...c'mon, it's going into the chassis...subframes are an area where strength and rigidity will always outweigh any kind of weight gains. The sets he makes are as high quality as anything out there and he sells them for 60 a pair and makes them on demand.

I think these companys that cash in with their $100+ sets of subframes are really ripping people off who don't know any better.

I guess i should add, that i'm not saying some guy's $35 subframes ARE good quality, i'm just arguing that not everything quality out there has to be expensive.

honestly that tubing from blue oval is EXTREMELY strong and thick IMO. why do i know? i have a pair sitting in the shed until i get around to having them welded in. First thing ya gotta do bud is have the ends welded up so they dont rust out fast. but they are very heavy duty.

any square tube can be used as frame ties I have welded in several sets on mustangs f bodies and other cars. those 35.00 ones are fine.

I just bought a set of them and am extremely happy with them. For the price they are great. But be sure to weld them in.

eighty8 said:

I have a set of full length weld-in sub frames made by Global West. Maximum Motorsports also makes a good pair. Buy the full length ones, other articles I have read these advise full length, thats why I bought them. Some manufactures make smaller ones that just just don't make much difference. The ones I have can be tied into a roll cage if needed in the future. Just my .02

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my .02.

I see no real advantage to full lengths over standard lengths. I have used Kenny Brown standard lengths SFC's on all my cars. Also installed MM full lengths on a customer's car and saw no advantage over the standards.