subwoofers

my70stang

New Member

Jul 16, 2005

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Arizona

Apr 16, 2006

#1

• Apr 16, 2006

• #1

im getting a whole new sound system, and part of that is going to be subwoofers, me n my dad are going to build the custom box for the trunk.

my question is, can i just set them up as they are with no extras? or do i need amplifiers or anything extra?

 

Mr. Rustypwnz

Advanced Member

Jun 1, 2005

1,761

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69

indianapolis/ valdosta ga

Apr 16, 2006

#2

• Apr 16, 2006

• #2

You need some amps or an amp, it depends on how much power you want, you really dont need to to just hook them up or they will sound like muffled speakers, 1k watt system will sound awesome in a mustang. Make sure you get quality parts and make sure your alternator or your power source is up to the task. I like fosgate, they are super quality. I say put one 12" T1 sub with a p5002 2 channel amp. remember to use good size cable and lots of sound deadener to hush those rattles.

Josh

 

my70stang

New Member

Jul 16, 2005

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Arizona

Apr 16, 2006

#3

• Apr 16, 2006

• #3

alright, thanks, slow

 

1

19stang66

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Apr 16, 2003

689

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Apr 16, 2006

#4

• Apr 16, 2006

• #4

Boondock Saints kicks ass. oh and i'm going to put my 10" Rockford Fosgate sub with a RF amp in mine. I have it in my Tauras right now and it doesnt sound to bad.

 

Mr. Rustypwnz

Advanced Member

Jun 1, 2005

1,761

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69

indianapolis/ valdosta ga

Apr 16, 2006

#5

• Apr 16, 2006

• #5

I should have put this in the first post, I had two p1 punch's in my room with the stereos stock 400w amp, you could hear it down the road from my house! I actually sold the p1's and my friend put them on a 1000w audiobahn amp and he says they dont bottom out and they hit like a sledge hammer, best part is I only paid $100 bucks for them new at crutchfield! And they are only rated at 600w both combined peak watt. The p2's and p3's are also good candidates, If you go with kicker I would go with sobo-laric's the comps are garbage and made of paper. Mtx's are awesome they pound pretty well. Check out crutchfield they have awesome prices. If you want loud beat your head in bass you want a ported box, if you want tight, clear, more defined bass you want a sealed box. There are SO many choices that you have, it all depends how much powa you want and how much you are willing to spend.

Josh

 

2nd Mustang

Founding Member

Feb 24, 2002

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Southern California

Apr 16, 2006

#6

• Apr 16, 2006

• #6

Not to be a wise butt, but why? I thought cars were for driving?
Why would I want to hear what you're playing in your car?

 

1

19stang66

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Apr 16, 2003

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Apr 17, 2006

#7

• Apr 17, 2006

• #7

I love listening to music when driving, thats my main reason. I love the sound of my car but it gets a little old after hearing the same noise for a long time. My system is just going to be a nice Kenwood headunit, Sony 3 ways, and a little RF 10" sub. The most noise you'll hear from my car is the roar of the engine.

 

F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"

Founding Member

Dec 6, 1999

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BC Canada

Apr 17, 2006

#8

• Apr 17, 2006

• #8

You'll want an amp for sure. And to be honest, anything more than 500W and you're looking at replacing most of your sound system. Any more bass than that and you'll be drowning out the rest of the music...you'll also want better/louder mid's and high's which will probably mean new speakers and another amp. You'll also need to look at upgrading your charging system.

For a simple upgrade, I'd go with a single 12" or 10" sub with about 300W to 400W of amplifier. Again.. anything more than that and you have a much bigger (and more expensive) project on your hands.

 

S

Sicarius428

Active Member

Jan 6, 2004

2,085

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Apr 17, 2006

#9

• Apr 17, 2006

• #9

JL makes a pretty good amp for the price. A single 10 should be good enough. If you go to a 12 you will need a lot more space porportionally for the box to compensate. Depending on the budget, I like the 10w7 but there are a lot of good subs out there.
Kevin

 

iskwezm

10 Year Member

May 24, 2005

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Rowland Heights,California

Apr 17, 2006

#10

• Apr 17, 2006

• #10

I stopped selling the JL amps, too many were going bad, i have had good lucj Directed's line or some lower end amps that have some really good specs.Woofer choice is a preference.

 

my70stang

New Member

Jul 16, 2005

156

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Arizona

Apr 17, 2006

#11

• Apr 17, 2006

• #11

ok, so when i got my car, the stock radio didnt work, there were no speakers, and the kick panels were just plain with no speakers...
so what im gonna get is a 12" sub, two 6x9", and two 5 1/4"...what size of AMP should i get for the best sound?

 

F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"

Founding Member

Dec 6, 1999

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Apr 17, 2006

#12

• Apr 17, 2006

• #12

Where do you plan on putting those 6x9's and 5 1/4's?

They won't fit in the factory locations unless you plan on cutting the sheetmetal and figuring out some grills.

 

my70stang

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Jul 16, 2005

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Arizona

Apr 17, 2006

#13

• Apr 17, 2006

• #13

well i found a special back deck from NPD that has 6x9 cutouts and the 5 1/4s are for the kick panels, again NPD have ones u can cut yourself for 5 1/2 speakers, so just planning on customizing them a little

 

F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"

Founding Member

Dec 6, 1999

4,818

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69

BC Canada

Apr 17, 2006

#14

• Apr 17, 2006

• #14

my70stang said:

well i found a special back deck from NPD that has 6x9 cutouts and the 5 1/4s are for the kick panels, again NPD have ones u can cut yourself for 5 1/2 speakers, so just planning on customizing them a little

Click to expand...

That'll work well.

So quarter panels with cutouts for speakers are now available for 69/70 cars? I'll have to look into getting some...they wern't available when I built my system.

 

my70stang

New Member

Jul 16, 2005

156

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Arizona

Apr 17, 2006

#15

• Apr 17, 2006

• #15

o...well go to this, and click on the "interior parts and upholstery" section...it forces u to download it but its worth it, i has a ton of choices for u to choose from (along with kick panels w/ round & teardrop speaker holes)

http://www.npdlink.com/modules.php?name=Mustang_Catalog&file=index&func=download

 

1

19stang66

Member

Apr 16, 2003

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Apr 17, 2006

#16

• Apr 17, 2006

• #16

I put my 6x9's in my package tray today. Me and my buddy just traced around the bottom of the tray and used a dremel to cut out around the oval shape. The stock screw holes line up perfect with my new 6x9s. Here are some pics. I'll be covering the tray in black carpet once I make a trip into town.

 

Taranis

New Member

Nov 12, 2004

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Austin, Texas

Apr 17, 2006

#17

• Apr 17, 2006

• #17

Come on....go with a McIntosh MCC602TM or the Soundstream Human Reign. I want one of those after my car has 4 wheels, brakes, engine, transmission,.......

 

my70stang

New Member

Jul 16, 2005

156

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Arizona

Apr 17, 2006

#18

• Apr 17, 2006

• #18

pretty sweet system u got goin there

 

S

Sicarius428

Active Member

Jan 6, 2004

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Apr 18, 2006

#19

• Apr 18, 2006

• #19

General rule round speakers have better sound than oblong or oval speakers. 6x9 have a better mid but if you are going through all the work for a new system, you'll end up tuning it anyways. Just a thought.
Kevin

 

Psydwaze

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Oct 10, 2001

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Sacramento, CA

Apr 18, 2006

#20

• Apr 18, 2006

• #20

I personally don't care for rear speakers other than a trunk mounted sub. Your sound stage should be set up in front of the listener not behind. Rear speakers, especially 6x9's add midbass but really clutter up any decent stereo separation created by the front speakers. I would say scratch the rear speakers and use some grill cloth over the rear speaker holes to improve the subwoofer 'play-through' into the interior. Ports directed through the rear deck also work VERY well, but the sub box has to be specifically designed for this.

You can get good midbass from a decent set of 6-1/2s securely mounted on a reinforced kick panel, not a flimsy plastic one or even sheet metal. Speaker output will increase as the structure becomes more stable. Same goes for sub boxes. When you build your box use internal braces to make it rock solid. And make sure it is air tight! Very important.

Before you start planning an enclosure, do some research on a selection of subwoofers. Required airspace, preferred enclosure type and efficiency should be compared before power handling. Required airspace for different brand subs can range anywhere from 1 to 5 cubic feet.

There is a freely distributed software program that already has a library of subwoofers and their specs. You can then design and compare different speakers, air volumes, tuning frequencies, response curves, etc.
http://www.linearteam.dk/