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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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subwoofers

  • Thread starter Thread starter my70stang
  • Start date Start date Apr 16, 2006
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Sicarius428

Active Member
Jan 6, 2004
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Apr 18, 2006
#21
  • Apr 18, 2006
  • #21
Yeah, forgot to add you probably don't want rear speakers too if you are going for a serious system. It does clutter the sound.
Kevin
 
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ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
4,818
1
69
BC Canada
Apr 18, 2006
#22
  • Apr 18, 2006
  • #22
For absolute best sound quality you DO want rear speakers. The trick is that you shoulc not be able to tell that the sound is comming from behind or infront of you.

Generally this means using rear speakers, but keeping the volume on them lower than the front speakers.

You need rear "fill", but want to avoid having the rear speakers overpower the fronts.
 
1

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
0
16
Apr 18, 2006
#23
  • Apr 18, 2006
  • #23
Thanks for the good info guys. Since I've had all of my speakers since 2 years ago, i'm going to use them. No use in not using them, just be wasting money.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
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79
Rowland Heights,California
Apr 18, 2006
#24
  • Apr 18, 2006
  • #24
Sicarius428 said:
Yeah, forgot to add you probably don't want rear speakers too if you are going for a serious system. It does clutter the sound.
Kevin
Click to expand...
rear speakers add rear fill, you dont want all your sound in front of your face
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Dec 27, 2006
#25
  • Dec 27, 2006
  • #25
Bringing up an old thread...

I just got two 10" Rockford Fosgate subwoofers and an Alpine 250 watt amp that I want to add to my system.

I currently have an Alpine deck and Infinity 6 1/2s in the kickpanels and Kenwood 6x9s in the rear deck.

My initial plan was to build a custom ported box with the subs facing the back seat. Once I got to measuring, I realized that it wont work in my coupe. I want to keep my full size spare...

I noticed a lot of custom installations show off the subs by placing them facing the trunk. How does this effect the sound? I know that bass does not have to be facing the listener like the high frequencies, but facing backwards...? Is this practice done for car shows?

How about the subs facing up, with ports facing the back seat? Thats how I had my truck setup under the back seat, but they would be pointing right at the 6x9s then...Should I leave the 6x9s or remove them as suggested in a previous post?

Any suggestions would be appreciated and pictures of what any of you did would be great!
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
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St Paul
Dec 27, 2006
#26
  • Dec 27, 2006
  • #26
Bass knows no direction. Pointing it at the back actually makes the entire car the speaker box. I wouldn't worry too much about sub location. My Bazooka pointed right into my inner quarter panel and it worked great.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
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79
Rowland Heights,California
Dec 27, 2006
#27
  • Dec 27, 2006
  • #27
Tim65GT said:
Bringing up an old thread...


I noticed a lot of custom installations show off the subs by placing them facing the trunk. How does this effect the sound? I know that bass does not have to be facing the listener like the high frequencies, but facing backwards...? Is this practice done for car shows?

How about the subs facing up, with ports facing the back seat? Thats how I had my truck setup under the back seat, but they would be pointing right at the 6x9s then...Should I leave the 6x9s or remove them as suggested in a previous post?

Any suggestions would be appreciated and pictures of what any of you did would be great!
Click to expand...
theres is enough room in the left 1/4 panel to make a box and "flush" mount a single 10" in it so it follows the line of the wheel weel and trunk. Pointing the woofers to the rear will not make the trunk a "enitre enclosure". it will reflect the bass off the rear panel wich can be worth as much as 3-5 dB that we have tested.You could also put 2 10" inder the package tray and port it through under the glass.

I wouldnt point them at the 6X9's, the possible air pressure might blow the deck speakers.

The bigger the woofers, the more power you will need. I am done doing mega watt systems and now stick to 1 5-600 watt 4/5 ch. amp and "small" 10's or 12's, and some good full range speakers set on a high pass x-over.
 

bdepedro

Member
Nov 6, 2006
362
2
19
Outer Banks, NC
Dec 27, 2006
#28
  • Dec 27, 2006
  • #28
my70stang said:
well i found a special back deck from NPD that has 6x9 cutouts and the 5 1/4s are for the kick panels, again NPD have ones u can cut yourself for 5 1/2 speakers, so just planning on customizing them a little
Click to expand...


Have you seen the kick panels? I assume they must delete the vent, right?
 

Psydwaze

Founding Member
Oct 10, 2001
661
0
16
Sacramento, CA
Dec 27, 2006
#29
  • Dec 27, 2006
  • #29
I've had the best success with rear firing/facing subwoofers or if possible position the woofer cone as far away from the listening area as possible, like the quarter panel. This greatly reduces the chances of significant cancellation which leads to potentially large gaps in frequency response. I've hear the method of bouncing sound off a structure to increase distance referred to as "corner loading" and it can result in a couple of "free" decibles. Depending upon how much time you have you could build a sample enclosure and play with the positioning to see what works best for your vehicle.
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Dec 27, 2006
#30
  • Dec 27, 2006
  • #30
Depending upon how much time you have you could build a sample enclosure and play with the positioning to see what works best for your vehicle.
Click to expand...

I suppose I have time, but that's what I was hoping to avoid, is doing something twice...that's why I'm here at stangnet, drawing off all the experiences of others.

I think I can put together a decent cabinet that will have the subs and ports facing the rear and still have the right amount of volume.

I remember a thread where there were a lot of pictures with different sub arrangments, maybe I can find it.

Thanks
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Dec 27, 2006
#31
  • Dec 27, 2006
  • #31
yeah,
Here's one:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=613384

It's called "Let me see your trunk" from back in Feb.

I really liked stang65s:

I don't think it would hold a spare though...hmmm

 

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Z06killinSBF

Member
Apr 25, 2005
457
1
19
McKinney, TX
Dec 28, 2006
#32
  • Dec 28, 2006
  • #32
By facing the subs rear, you basically turn your trunk into a big enclosure that produces more base. Kinda like a bandpass box. Atleast this is my observation. Try building a cheap, quick box so that you can position it in the trunk however you want and see what sounds the best. One of the best sounding stereos I had in my car was (2) Pioneer free air 12's running off a 1200w US Acoustics amp blowing into were my back seat would be. Since Mustang trunks arent very big, I recommend Image Dynamics IDQ series subs. They are small box, tight, clean sounding subs that play LOUD. Im in the process of building a rear fire dual 12 box to house (2) 12" Kenwoods.

View attachment 414421
 

Z06killinSBF

Member
Apr 25, 2005
457
1
19
McKinney, TX
Dec 28, 2006
#33
  • Dec 28, 2006
  • #33
Go here. This should help you out.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=141
 

68converted

Member
Nov 19, 2003
772
0
16
Colorado
Dec 29, 2006
#34
  • Dec 29, 2006
  • #34
This is what I am working on right now... http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/final2.jpg

This is in a late model but mine is going to very similar, with only one 10" and the amp sitting next to it. I thought about doing a drop in Spare tire unit... here is the start and end of that project. I could not get enough space for the sub... http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/insidesub.jpg
 
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